Volvo repair manual

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 23 Jun 2010, 17:26

John, both sensors are ordered probably be delivered on the 24th but I'll be out of town until Monday afternoon. I'll post back as soon as I know something. Thanks again for the help it's definetly the been a great help.

Post by **JDS60R** » 23 Jun 2010, 20:31

TJMAS

Absolutely - My pleasure !!!

Post by **JDS60R** » 23 Jun 2010, 20:43

Hi Volvo4bim,
Welcome to Matthews Volvo Site!!!

Please feel free to make your own, new post next time. If you post in the middle of an ongoing thread your request is often missed by many - and we are looking to have everyone help you with their advice.

I attached your requested procedure. Please let me know if I can be of further help. If I were to sum up the info on buying a replacement bearing it would be that you should buy a good one ( Volvo or top brand name). Some of the cheap replacements seem to fail prematurely.

On this style hub bearings the torque on the mounting bolts and the axle are very important to how long it lasts. I will post a torque chart for your XC. If you get a good bearing and install it with a good torque wrench you should be happy with the outcome.

Best Wishes,
John

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 28 Jun 2010, 18:45

well back in town and had a chance to put both new sensors in, cam and crank. Unfortunatly same problem, slight flutter at idle. I would presume the timing would set automatically if the new sensors were the fix, am I correct? I have not yet clearedthe codes and seen what pops up but I will. I have to trailer the car to a mechanic I know that will do it for me, nice guy. I'll ramble hear for a minute and see if any of my question make sense. Is there anyway to bypass or turn off the reduced engine preformance mode other then the complete fix. I'm tempted to disassemble down past intake manifold, sense I did'nt have this problem before I did the new pcv box, to look for any vacuum hose problems or anything. I did have one bolt left when I was done with that job that was the standard diameter,same as intake bolts, by about a inch long with red thread lock on it. I looked and looked where it could have come from but have not found where. I faintly remember taking it off with the thread lock on it thinking it was strange they used the lock on it I thought it was just a wire or hose holder but maybe it was more. I know it was something under the manifold. I suppose the engine miss could be a plug seeing how I was burning alot of oil before the pcv job but like I said the engine was running fine prior to that. I'm still concerned about the bolt incident exspecially if the code comes back cam/crank shaft sensor, I guess i"ll see. Well let me know what you think if anything I said makes any sense. I do know my wife is getting tired of driving my lifted wrangler

Post by **JDS60R** » 28 Jun 2010, 21:12

So are you thinking you have a vacuum leak? Can you hear anything? Can you take some pics of the intake and post them.
Sometimes the answer is right in front of you but you can't see it. -Lots of eyes here

Are you sure both of the knock sensors (held in with bolt mentioned under the manifold) went back on the block?

I agree you should at least pull and clean/or replace the plugs.

Either way- clear the codes and let us know what comes back.

Also - if you had a cam/crank sensor code and it returns we have to start examining the harness for shorts and failure.

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 29 Jun 2010, 05:33

No I don't hear a leak but thought a inspection may not hurt under manifold. Do you have a pic with location of Knock sensors and what they look like. Will using the same intake gasket be OK, I replaced it when I did the PCV. It really has.nt run much because of this issue.

Post by **JDS60R** » 29 Jun 2010, 09:03

Ok - several things on the table so lets address them
1.knock sensor pics attached
2. Glad to hear that you don't hear leaks.
3. You will have to inspect the intake gasket to see if it is still flat and usable.
4.Check every PCV connection while you are in there
5. Start with the plugs - if they fix it you have no need for an intake removal. Volvos like Volvo plugs - stay with stock
6. no way to remove the reduced performance limp mode until fixed.
7. inspect the wires to the cam/crank sensors to assure they are not pinched,shorted etc.- checkall wires near manifold

Let us know what you find. A few pics would be a great help

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 09 Jul 2010, 05:14

Im still working on it, just been busy with other things. Did change the plugs, no help. II had to use NGK double platniums though because the nearest Volvo dealer is a hour in either direction. Ill post back as soon as I can.

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 30 Jul 2010, 16:02

Well I'm finally back, John hope your still out there. I got the car into get the codes read. They are OBDII codes and are as follows: P2135-Throttle plate sensor
P0123-Pedal sensor
P0222-Throttle
P0116-Cam/Crank corilation
code #'s are diffently right, discriptions were as fast as I could wright as he was reading them. Are the first 3 due to the car being in reduced engine preformance mode? The car starts right away seems to run fine until it kicks down to low idle the it flutters. Seems like a timing issue to me but certianly not an expert. What do you think would be the next plan. I can double check but I looked carefully and the wires from the cam sensor did'nt appear pinched.

Post by **JDS60R** » 30 Jul 2010, 18:24

Hi - I'm here. I will look into those codes and post back.

See next post - I am coming up with different definitions

I'll be back !!!!

Volvo repair manual

Re: Volvo repair manual