Oil Pan Job... How bad?

Post by **JDS60R** » 17 Jul 2010, 20:45

Looks Great !!!

Just as you pointed out:
Clean the mating surfaces on the pan and block(chemically only) and you will be ready to reassemble. I use a little Hylomar to hold the o rings up in the block. This way I know they are in correctly.

Post by **JDS60R** » 17 Jul 2010, 20:49

Hey - while you have it off and clean. Can you post a pic of how low the oil drain plug sits from the inside of the pan. Everybody always asks me for that pic and I always forget to take it.
Thanks

Post by **JDS60R** » 17 Jul 2010, 20:53

A spray can of B-12 will remove any residue from inside the pan and will help with the gasket residue. You want to get the simple green residue out and brake clean or B-12 will not leave residue.

Because you are using the liquid sealer it is not overly important that you remove the gasket chemically only. I have had to redo so many head gaskets etc because folks have scoured them. Its like second nature for me to warn people not to scour a gasket surface.

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 17 Jul 2010, 21:04

I lightly scrubbed the surface with my sponge, no hard pressing though. I'm going to take a razor to it and see if I can carefully get some of it off. Is B-12 available at most stores?

Also, your wish is my command...

Post by **JDS60R** » 17 Jul 2010, 21:11

Thanks for the pics

B-12 is usually at Advance, Autozone, O'Riely and Wal Mart

Post by **JDS60R** » 17 Jul 2010, 21:16

No problems on the gasket surface from your scrubbing. The liquid gasket will easily handle it.

Strong Gasket cleaner, B 12, Acetone, and airplane paint stripper, razor blades etc all work well for removing the little bit of gasket you have left. You can get any of them from any of the parts stores I mentioned for the B12

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 17 Jul 2010, 21:26

Great, thank you so much!

Tomorrow I'm going to work on cleaning the engine block as well as I can, before I start practicing the re-installation. Getting that engine mount raised was crucial for me, but a lot easier than expected once I got a little guidance!

Once I get it on and everything back in order, I'm going to run some junk oil for a day to make sure I have no leaks before switching to what I want to use. Grandpa's old stash of Castrol Syntec from 1999 should do the trick.

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 18 Jul 2010, 10:08

Alrighty, now time to replace those o-rings.

1. I got the oil dipstick tube o-ring taken care of.

2. I got the replacement for the o-ring that I took a picture of, the one that had failed with the deformation.

3. Now, to the right of the bad one, there is this guy:

: DSCN4348.JPG (213.88 KiB) Viewed 1602 times

I don't seem to have a replacement that matches in my o-ring kit, however the ring is not in bad shape. I tried a couple of the larger o-rings that I have, but none fit exactly well as the old one does.

4. I took off the oil pickup tube and got the o-ring on there, and it wasn't in terrible shape.

So are there only these 3 o-rings that need replacing? I noticed there are also o-rings around the oil cooler ports, but I don't have replacements for those either. They are in good shape though.

Post by **JDS60R** » 18 Jul 2010, 11:32

Replace them all. No question - don't even think about not replacing them.

During training they would put the water hose on us while doing push ups when we even mentioned bad thoughts like not replacing them as"they look ok". Do you have a hose?

Keep in mind:-
1.They are all partially degraded and damaged due to compression and heat
2. You can never align them back where they were perfectly so a surface mismatch is guaranteed.
3.This "is" your chance to replace them - having to do something twice is not as much fun.
4. You are going from no liquid gasket to a substantial one and the distances between critical gasket surfaces will change.
5. Common sense and good engineering practices dictate any failing material in service for a reasonable time should be replaced if accessible.
6. If you get an oil system leak or too many bubbles in the system you may have to replace the engine at great personal expense .
7. You have been advised of how bad an idea it would be to stick with the old o rings.

Post by **JDS60R** » 18 Jul 2010, 11:38

Is your o ring kit Viton material or just Buna-N?
Many of the Volvo seals are far better than Buna-N. These seals are all very important.

Spend whatever is necessary to get the OEM or equivalent material rings. As you don't do this job often I would suggest getting the Volvo ones. All of the surfaces must be completely clean before installation. I do use a touch of syl glyde or Hylomar on all of the o rings I install. They Syl glyde allows an easy slip fit while the hylomar also allows slip and seals any imperfections.

Oil Pan Job... How bad?

Re: Oil Pan Job... How bad?