No Spark at coil 1991 240

niel9533 · Post by **niel9533** » 20 Jul 2010, 17:33

I'll be darned but I can't seem to find a discussion that covers this topic, so if you know where to point me, please do. The 1991 245 has had issues with stalling on occasion after starting normally during the hottest summer days. She has 330k miles so I don't mind too much. But, today she quit after driving for about 3-minutes - pulling into traffic at a light from a stop...and she hasn't started since. First thing I checked was for spark at the coil and there was none. Primary coil then tested w/in specs, but the secondary coil was out of range so i bought a new one from the parts store nearby. This one tests w/in specs but still no spark. This is where I'm stuck...i don't know how to test the coil further, ie what voltage should be at the primary terminals and/or what to do if that test fails. I printed off the OBD instructions, but get no light flashes when trying to see what may be stored there. I see a strong LED light when I push the button (for more than 1 but less than 3 seconds) but then nothing...there is a faint glow to the LED once the ignition switch is turned to 'on', but there are no flashes. Thanks for your suggestions!

Post by **billofdurham** » 22 Jul 2010, 15:50

Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

When you are using the OBD are you pressing the button then switching the ignition on? That is how your post reads and, if so, it is wrong. The ignition must be on before pressing the button.

You have obviously tested the resistance of the coil as it is "w/in specs". Voltage at the primary winding should be battery voltage. Don't try to test for secondary voltage with a voltmeter.

If you don't have battery voltage at the primary winding you need to check for broken or shorted wires between the ignition switch and the coil.

Bill.

nikka · Post by **nikka** » 25 Jul 2010, 14:49

Just wondering if billofdurham figured out his issue as I have a 1993 volvo that is doing the same thing. Mine has power to the coil but no spark, have changed the module and coil however no power out to coil wire.Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

Retired MVS Contributor · Post by **Retired MVS Contributor** » 25 Jul 2010, 17:36

The fuse for the fuel injection is in the engine compartment of the 240's...It is a 25 amp blade fuse located on the left inside fender next to a couple of relays just behind the battery...This fuse is exposed to water running in through the seam between the hood and the fender and it gets corroded...When this fuse acts up intermittent stalling, poor running, hard starting, etc result...Cleaning it up helps, but if it is in bad shape the holder needs to be replaced...IPD sells a replacement holder complete with wires and a weather-proof cover...The fuel injection and the ignition are inter-dependant, if the ignition does not work, fuel injection won't either...In 1986 this car had the Chrysler ignition package over on the right inside fender just behind the radiator...It was probably the same in 1993...

tblo760 · Post by **tblo760** » 30 Jul 2010, 18:07

For any ignition coil to generate a spark,it must receive a signal on the negative side from the distributer.Go for the cheapest first and renew the cap and rotor arm,rotors can build up a high resistance and fail and is beyond the range of a multimeter test.I recently bought a 240 from a guy who had been quoted £400 to get it running,he could not afford this so I got it for £100.I rigged up an old distributer and coil (contact breaker type) to test it,and it fired up immediately,this gave me the clue for further diagnostics.The final result was a new rotor at the price of £2.49p ! And it's still running.