Changing Driver side rotor

[volvoaddict007]

Hi mag110

I don't mean to be difficult but I don't see any bolts broke off in the hub and you just mentioned the rotor again. Is it the bolt behind the arrow?

I'm poor so if it was just the one lug bolt I'd be getting it out of there.

But if you do take the hub off I would get the watershield ( backing plate ) back on. It's there for at least 2 reasons. Keeping a bunch of cold water from hitting some really hot rotors and warping them ( such as a puddle on a dry day ) & keeping your brother from breaking off the bolts because they're too rusted...

va007

[green27614]

the idea of simply replacing the whole hub just because a lug nut is broken off is COMPLETELY stupid!! That is the kind of solution a dealer would say. I realize that this is an older post and you probably already have this issue sorted out, but perhaps the following will give others a hand in solving this kind of dilemma.

With the advent of the electric DRILL and some good drill bits, the idea of an EASY OUT was invented. It is a tool that looks like a drill bit with reverse threads on it. These threads can be pounded into a hole with a hammer allowing the user to get a bit on a bolt that has broken. We in the race car world have used them for years.

you don't even have to remove the hub to do this.
what you need:
a good electric drill
a drill bit (the best metal cutting bit you can find)
an easy out (ask your parts dealer about the size you need and the drill bit size you will need)
if you have access to an acetylene torch that is helpful too or just a can of penetrating oil to spray on the area.
a set punch
a hammer

step 1.
locate the lug nut stub you broke off
use your set punch and hammer carefully set the punch in as much of the center of the broken lug as you can.
Now give it a whack with your hammer
what you have done is given yourself a place to set your drill bit so it won;t dance all over the place while you start the drill ing process.

Step 2.
load up your drill with your new METAL cutting drill bit and start drilling until you get to a depth of where your easy out will bottom out in the hole.

Step 3.
spray the area with pb blaster or equivalent penetrating oil. now go have a beer. Penetrating oil take a little while to work- but it does work when enough is applied and enough time is given for it to work.

alternate method if you have a torch:

heat up the area where the lug is broken with your torch (but DO NOT get it glowing red hot- this will affect the tempering of the metal it is made of(probably cast metal) and could eventually break under even normal use. This method is not for the truly inexperienced in using a torch in auto mechanics.

Step 4.
Take your easy out and bang it into the hole you drilled earlier. Make sure it bottoms out in the hole and gets a good "bite".

Step 5.
Using a breaker bar and socket to fit the easy out starting rocking it out ever so slightly.

I have used these methods for years as an old school mechanic and they do work.

It will also save you about $2-300 bucks by not having to take it to a machine shop. Whomeever told you that is what you needed to do is totally off his rocker.

[the_brad]

I recently snapped the head off a lug bolt, drilled a pilot hole and followed up with a larger hole - however I was pushing too hard on the drill as I went in with the second bit and have ended up off center. I am dangerously close to the threads on one side of the bolt now and realize that an easy out may not work because once I tap the easy out in it may go through the one edge of the drilled hole and into the threads of the hub.

Does anyone have a suggestion I could try? I am thinking that I could try to come at the remaining bolt from the back side of the hub and see if I can loosen what remains of the bolt, however if that does not solve it I think I am faced with purchasing a new hub.

Thanks

[Ozark Lee]

Welcome to MVS,

The lug bolts should stick all the way through the hub but how much thread is left is a function of what wheels you use. If you have enough thread sticking out you might be able to double nut it and break things free from the back side but I kinda doubt it. Plan B would be to remove the hub and try the EZ Out from the back side.

If you are already resigned to changing out the hub then you might be able to actually get the EZ Out to work and then assess the thread damage later. I had a wheel flat fall off of the '94 and the last remaining bolt tore up the threads in the hub pretty good but a thread chase fixed it just fine and I have had no problems several months later.

You have already identified Plan C - the new hub.

...Lee