I thought replacing the fuel filter would be easy

[bw77]

Approaching 105K miles, I decided to replace the fuel filter on my 1999 S70GLT. I read the Bay13 instructions, and also the Haynes manual. I released the fuel line pressure at the valve just rear of the fuel filter, removed the 12mm band holding bolt, and the 2 quick release couplings. At this point I expected the filter and band to come out together, as stated on Bay13, but this was not the case. I had to wiggle the filter quite a bit to get it to slide out from the band, which stays on the car.

I then replaced the fuel filter with a new one, no problem. The problem was that I could not get that 12mm bolt back into the band clamp. I then put the side of the car up on jack stands to get a better view. Even then, I could not get that bolt back in. The clamp end was just too far away. I problably twisted the band trying to get the filter out, so I tried to straighten it with pliers, but that did not help enough. I saw a way to remove the clamp, by removing a very rusted 13mm nut that attaches to the charcoal cannister bracket, but I thought it would break off and make more problems. I then removed the filter, got the 12mm bolt started, but then I could not get the filter to fit. So I removed the bolt and slid the filter back on, and reattached the couplings.

So now the car runs fine, no leaks, but no 12mm band holding bolt. I think my best option at this point is to get a longer, thinner bolt and nut, and hold the band together that way.

[TIKIFULWOOD]

Hey,

Yeah mine was difficult to get back in to, really difficult. it's do-able buddy. If I can recall correctly, I had to slightly re-shape the holder as close to the original diameter and circlular shape because the holes wouldn't line up after bending the metal to remove the filter. I did this by using mole grips on the flange faces with the bolt gonig through the holes, whilst around the filter. When I'd got it as close as possible I then removed the grips. Positioned the assembly with the a long 12mm socket on the bolt (with the bolt as close as possible to the hole ready to pass through the hole in the body, and used a jack to gently push the whole thing upwards thus forcing the clamp together, whilst I wrestled it into place and swore a bit. I then simply used the mole grips to turn the socket a few turns. Once the bolt had bit, I then removed the un-otherdox equipment and tightened it up as normal. No cross threading or anything.

Now if you haven't got a long socket you could just use the jack saddle on the bottom of the flange and filter, using a screwdriver to line up the holes for the bolt to pass thro the flange and into the body hole at the same time as raising the jack and forcing the flange together.. I guess you would then swear and curse a bit, whilst you wrestle it and line up the holes, insert the bolt and apply some upward force to the bolt to close the remaining gap on the flange a bit more, then try and get the darn bolt to bite the threads.

As I say, a bit of a different approach, but it worked for me. You'll suss it out.. Go get um tiger, and then look forward to doing the timing and serp belt.!

[bw77]

It's good to know I was not the only person to have a problem with this. I got an M6 bolt, 30mm long, put it down through the clamp bolt hole, then I was able to get on a washer, lock washer and nut, and tighten it down. I would say the clamp was sprung up a good half inch.

[1997volvo850]

This is on my list of things to do. The amount of rust make me think this won't be easy.
Wonder if the bracket is going to fall off when I start to work on it.

Looks like this could be interesting...

I'm waiting...

[nightc1]

I replaced the fuel filter on my V70 recently. It wasn't much of a problem. I think it took me a few tries to get everything to fit right... but the 12mm bold went back in just fine. Thankfully this is a completely rust free car as it's lived it's life in AL.

[1997volvo850]

Tonight I replaced my old rusty fuel filter. Before the change stepping on the gas had very little effect
whatsoever. I mean the car took its time accelerating. If I recall correctly the RPMs would slowly climb
close to 3000 but never got very high before shifting. The acceleration was controlled at best.

After changing the fuel filter the car takes off for the first time in years. I had thought this old dog was ready
for retirement but changing the fuel filter appears to have brought her back to life. I think my turbo came on
for the first time in a long while.

Changing the filter made a huge difference on my car.

The actual change was only slowed by the amount of rust around the strap that holds the fuel filter. I also could not
get the return line off of the top of the holder so I left it. I did not want to damage the return line.

I sprayed the rusted mount with two coats of rust inhibitor before installing new filter. Installed 12mm screw prior to
sliding new filter into greased holder. A little petroleum help the filter slide into the rusted holder.

Overall not a difficult maintenance item. My car now takes off like it hasn't done in years. I guess this item was well
overdue.

[bw77]

Yes, I noticed that, too. Better acceleration after changing the fuel filter at 104K miles.

[milesursogood]

According to the 850 Haynes Repair Manual, they recommend disconnecting the harness connector from the fuel pump/sending unit in order to relieve fuel pressure and eventually, replace the fuel filter. In your experience, is this necessary? I can't seem to find the harness connector from the fuel pump/sending unit. Is the sender unit in the same exact area of the fuel delivery hose?

[polskamafia mjl]

No it is not necessary. Let the car sit for an hour or two and then you will be fine. Simply disconnect the old filter and install the new one. This is my write up, btw, hope it helps a little -> https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=31420