Volvo repair manual

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 24 Aug 2010, 14:12

Well good news car is up and running. Couple of issues though,after test driving several miles I got no oil pressure warning. I turned off and it was back to normal for another 5miles or so and then got it again. Each time it go back to normal by turning it off and on. Remember the first repair was a totally plugged oil trap and lines. The drain hole into the crank was totally plugged and after much spraying, cleaning and blowing of compressed air I got it to blow through. I had planned on another oil change after 500 miles(just did one) or so but maybe the pump is picking up some slug and I should do it right away. What do you think? The other thing is I can hear a vacuum leak where the 3" hose attaches to the air filter box, clamped as tight as it will go but can still hear it. Cars idling a little rough possibly from that. Last thing is how to change drivers rear tail light. Can't figure out how to get in there. Thanks for the help

Post by **JDS60R** » 24 Aug 2010, 15:16

If oil light at idle only then suspect oil pan o rings. Start with an engine flush( add cleaner) and idle (do not drive) for 20 min and then change oil. The reality is that oil changes do not take out much sludge at all. You need an engine flush. Sometimes its best to do it twice. If still getting light after flush at idle then prepare for taking oil pressure readings, checking dipstick for bubbles in oil and prep for o ring replacement. Seafoam is not strong enough. I use http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/flsh.aspx - just be sure to use a brand name quality flush.

If the air leak is in between the MAF and the air filter housing it doesn't effect the idle. It just lets unfiltered air in. If its between the motor and the MAF it will effect idle.

I would take an inventory of codes that come back and symptoms you are experiencing. Then we can put the puzzle together.

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 24 Aug 2010, 15:34

The oil pressure light always came on while driving. The leak sounds like at where the flex hose conacts to the MAF tube. It would be after the maf. I believe it had a solid steel ring inside the plastic tube originaly, no longer there probably so the plastic tube of maf did't flex while clamping.

Post by **JDS60R** » 24 Aug 2010, 15:51

Not sure why you would drive a car with the oil light on.
Take an oil pressure reading and replace the sensor or repair oil system as needed. What good is an engine with questionable oil pressure?

Replace the broken or missing parts for the intake.

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 24 Aug 2010, 16:00

was'nt driving with it on, it came on after about 5 miles of test drive after reassembly. Yanked to the side and turned it off. Sat there deciding how to get my truck and trailer and started it to see if the light stayed on and I had no pressure for good or if it possible pulled up sludge to the screen and the freed up. Started no light no problem drove back the same 5 miles only as I was turning in the driveway did it come back on. Will flush tommorrow and see. Am I wrong in thinking it could have pulled up the sludge to the screen and after turn off the car it released it and settled back down?

Post by **JDS60R** » 24 Aug 2010, 16:52

You said
"The oil pressure light always came on while driving"

Glad to hear that was not the case.

No way to tell about the sludge until you drop the pan. Its more rare to get sucked in - it normally just clogs the screen.

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 25 Aug 2010, 12:21

Well did the amsoil flush and drove for at least 15 miles with no issue. Looks like it did the trick. Hopefully the last issue is that it sounds like a gasping for air and you can hear it through the air cleaner, exspecially if you pop the cover and put your ear to the opening. Car idle seems to change, not a putter of the engine but up and down. Is the gasping what you would get from intake leak? never had one before. Car seems to run fine while driving actually more power then its had in a long time. let me know what you think and thanks again for the help. I'm going to search the forum for removing rear taillight to replace bulb or if you have a pdf. Thanks

Post by **JDS60R** » 25 Aug 2010, 15:25

Vacuum leaks are sneaky. If you have one past the MAF you have to fix it. A lean condition beyond the scope of the O2 sensor to compensate will burn a valve. Smaller leaks cause an up/down wave of idle that repeats so idle goes up/down/up /down/up/down.

Larger leaks will cause the fuel trim to vary to compensate. Put some duct tape over it and order the part. The gasping is the sound of the intake air. It should be constant and sound like air through a hollow tube. It should vary with rpm.

broken bulb fixey doc attached

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 25 Aug 2010, 16:27

I don't think it's at the 3" hose after maf like I thought, I fixed that good. I'm wondering if it's the dang intake gasket I did'nt replace. Should of listened to you it's just that it is a 45 min each way to the dealer or else online. If it is the intake manifold gasket would you hear it resinating threw the air intake or would it be more at the manifold.

TJMAS · Post by **TJMAS** » 25 Aug 2010, 16:28

Forgot to say I sprayed all around the manifold with carb cleaner no change in idle

Volvo repair manual

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