Radiator: To Repair Or Replace

MJJ · Post by **MJJ** » 04 Sep 2010, 10:02

I am about to go out and replace my radiator ('99 S70 2.4T). The good thing is the tutorial by the guy on volvospeed. The bad thing is that this is the second time I'll have had to pull that mother in the last 2 years.

Why? Maybe because the first time I succumbed to cheapness. I called the radiator guy and discovered that he was willing to replace the rubber seals between the plastic tanks and the aluminum core for some price I forget exactly but sounded cheap at the time, cheaper than a new radiator anyway.

Now it's 2 years later and it's leaking again. I have bought a new radiator this time.

Hopefully this is not a cheap chinese knock off that will cause me to post in 2 more years about how I am replacing the radiator again.

While I'm on the subject, I will complain about the cooling system. Also in the last 2 years, every possible component of the cooling system that can leak, has leaked, except for the main radiator hoses which I replaced with the radiator fix. Heater hoses, check. Heater core, check. Coolant tank, check. Radiator of course, check. Maybe Volvo should just throw in the towel and make air cooled engines? They could learn how from VW.

Post by **JDS60R** » 04 Sep 2010, 10:14

I run into this often. Here is how to fix it.
Buy a quality radiator
Use Volvo coolant and distilled water
Replace your hoses while you have the system drained.
Use Gates Powergrip SB clamps only !!!!! Use them on every hose connection. Others will leak over time.
Replace the pressure cap and thermostat with quality new ones.

If you follow these steps you will have your cooling system under control and you will stop leaking .( when it stops leaking you also maintain the pressure in the system that helps cool the motor). This method has eliminated comebacks for me.

Many people will "freak" when they hear I suggested Volvo coolant for a Volvo. You will also get lots of opinions on other aspects. This solution is the only one that we found works long term. With it ,me and my customers get a very long ,leak free service life out of our cooling system. I found if you skip even one of these steps you will be back into it sooner than you want.

You didn't state which rad you picked? We also found (through replacing them for customers) that a re crimp is usually a mistake.

Post by **red_baron** » 04 Sep 2010, 10:30

I just replaced the radiator (Autozone) on my 96 850. Everything went fine except one tranny hose connection. The radiator came with screw on hose connectors. What should I put on the threads of the connector that screws into the radiator as that is where it is leaking? Thanks.

Post by **igel513** » 04 Sep 2010, 13:58

JD, where did u buy those Gates power grip clamps.

MJJ · Post by **MJJ** » 04 Sep 2010, 14:53

Thanks for the advice JD. I'm done with the job and did not take all your advice, which will probably come around to bite me later. But shoot man, I'm getting good at this. It only took me 3 hours this time.

I was looking at the old radiator. I would have thought that recrimping would have left marks that I could see, and the tabs look untouched. Do you think the shop could have poured in some stop leak and charged me for a rebuild?

The replacement is a Nissens, made in Denmark. So it's not Chinese, and I hope nothing's rotten. (I would really worry if it was made in Norway... they really hate the Swedes)

Post by **JDS60R** » 04 Sep 2010, 15:21

Can buy Powergrip SB clamps at O Riely's.

Don't forget to use these clamps on the oil cooler (mounted on back if oil pan type). This is a very common place for leaks.

Post by **JDS60R** » 04 Sep 2010, 15:23

Do you think the shop could have poured in some stop leak and charged me for a rebuild?

Its possible -not much shocks me these days. But if I had to guess I would say no. The aluminum alloy they use for the radiator is so soft you can bend it easily -re crimp doesn't leave any noticeable marks. They have to be easy with it as its pressing against plastic.

Glad you have it back together.