If anybody read my original posting, I'm in the process of acquiring a '91 740 from my aunt's estate for my daughter. Well, tomorrow was supposed to be be the big day that the car was going to move from where it's been sitting for almost a year, maybe been more than a year if she had been driving my uncle's car (he passed last summer, my aunt in December). So ,this afternoon I go and put in a new battery (batteries got wicked expensive since the last time I bought one), put in some Lucas treatment and 5 gallons of fresh gas (put me to 3/4 tank so I figure I'm around half old half new gas), cleaned the MAP and throttle body, started it up (I'd started it over a month ago so it didn't take much to start), and decided that before it got hot, that I'd change the belts, which were all cracked and missing teeth. Well, while doing the belts I guess I leaned on the upper radiator hose somehow and snapped the connection off of the radiator!!!!! DOH!!! So now I need to hope that NAPA has one tomorrow, else I have to order one from FCP......while it's apart we'll do a new thermostat and hoses.
So far I'm pleased with how easy the access is to work on this car. I was impressed with the belt tensioner system, works nicely.
I also found that the original battery holddown is shot and have to replace that somehow.
How difficult is the distributor cap and rotor replacement? THAT looks like tight access, up against the firewall.
This 740 beat me today
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egads
- Posts: 89
- Joined: 31 March 2009
- Year and Model: S70 98 XC90 08 C40
- Location: Canberra, Australia
Good idea to do all the rad stuff after the car has sat anyhow so probably for the best. I haven't done a rotor on my 740 yet but the access should be OK, just come at from the sides.
Aren't FCP in CT? You could give em a ring and see if you could head down and pick up an order of all the stuff then get the best bits and a good price? Just an idea.
Good luck!
Aren't FCP in CT? You could give em a ring and see if you could head down and pick up an order of all the stuff then get the best bits and a good price? Just an idea.
Good luck!
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Distributor cap and rotor aren't too difficult to change. I use a cranked screwdriver for working in tight spaces. The screws in the cap are captive so there is no chance of dropping them.
By battery holddown do you mean the bracket or the tray? If it is the bracket MyVolvoPartsOnline.com list the part #1316365 at $8.06. However, the last time I needed one of those I talked to a metal fabricator who made me one for a small donation to his favourite charity.
Bill.
By battery holddown do you mean the bracket or the tray? If it is the bracket MyVolvoPartsOnline.com list the part #1316365 at $8.06. However, the last time I needed one of those I talked to a metal fabricator who made me one for a small donation to his favourite charity.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
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JimG63
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 18 August 2010
- Year and Model: 740/1991, XC70/2006
- Location: New Britain, CT
Well, good news. Napa had the radiator for only $115 and the hoses and the changeout went quickly, except that after I got the system up to temperature I realized that I forgot to remove the temperature sensor from the old radiator. Hope the gasket on the plug works with sensor. I'll worry about that once I get the car in my driveway. I discovered that the exhaust noise is from the engine pipe just ahead of the exhaust parts I've already bought, with a nice half inch hole in it. Fun fun fun. bought some exhaust pipe tape to do a temp fix til I get it in the driveway and take a full look at what else I need.
The plastic battery tray is intact, and the metal holddown lip at the front of the fender is there, but the removeable holddown bolt was pretty much gone and snapped off. If I can remove the other lip without too much trouble I should have room to put in a new tray with a holddown clamp that goes over the top of the battery. I want to yank the battery out again anyway to scrape the rust off under it and hit it with some rustoleum.
The plastic battery tray is intact, and the metal holddown lip at the front of the fender is there, but the removeable holddown bolt was pretty much gone and snapped off. If I can remove the other lip without too much trouble I should have room to put in a new tray with a holddown clamp that goes over the top of the battery. I want to yank the battery out again anyway to scrape the rust off under it and hit it with some rustoleum.
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Keep us updated with your progress, please. Some interesting things may come up.
Bill.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
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JimG63
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 18 August 2010
- Year and Model: 740/1991, XC70/2006
- Location: New Britain, CT
Sorry I haven't posted in a while, but I haven't had much opportunity to do much with the car. I got it home finally a few weeks ago and it's pretty much sat until yesterday when I began to tackle the exhaust.....all I can say is that in 100 plus years of the auto industry, you'd think they'd come up with a better way to attach an engine pipe to a manifold, other than rust prone studs and nuts....I have the entire exhaust off of the car except the last 6-8 inches of the front pipe. Most of the work was easy, just chopping up the exhaust in sections with the sawzall. I managed to get ONE nut off of the engine pipe flange, had to grind away most of nuts 2&3 with my dremel, got one chiseled off and the most poorly located one (it's always that one, isn't it) is giving me problems. I'm awaiting the UPS man today with the Cat and engine pipe and new studs and nuts.
Now, has anybody had issues with the hangers made by Starla? My rear muffler bracket has one hanger going forward and the other going backwards......and they don't line up with the car brackets.....
Now, has anybody had issues with the hangers made by Starla? My rear muffler bracket has one hanger going forward and the other going backwards......and they don't line up with the car brackets.....
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