Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

KLS · Post by **KLS** » 13 Sep 2010, 17:49

Does anyone have any tips on replacing the oil cooler hoses on my 1996 850 turbo?

The upper hose has a pin hole leak in the middle of the hose. I plan on replacing both, but access is tough. I think the lower ends are accessible through the right front wheel well, but I haven't taken the plastic liner out to check that yet. eEuroparts has the hoses ($103 & $110!), seals, and clips. A good local shop wants $700 for the job, about 2-1/2 hours, parts & tax.

Post by **holler1** » 13 Sep 2010, 18:18

Yes, you can get to the ends of the oil cooler lines through the passenger side wheel well. The lines go into a small oil thermostat box underneath the crank pulley. I recommend removing the thermostat box too; that makes it easier to get the new lines and O rings back in. The box has a rectangular sealer ring on the back of it but it is fairly easy to get back in. When you get ready to reassemble them, put both lines back in the thermostat box; then slide the whole assembly under the engine and bolt up the thermostat box. I ruined an O ring the first time when trying to do the job without removing the thermostat and had to do it over. Also, the lines are clamped to the engine and access to the bolt that goes through the line brackets is tricky; you need a long 1/4" socket extension to get to it over the subframe and past an interfering bolt on the AC compressor. You need O rings for both ends, different kinds for each end. I think the O rings for the radiator end come with the lines. The job took me several hours (first time) but a lot of the time was spent trying to get one bolt back in - the bracket bolt that holds the lines on. There are some other fairly recent threads with pictures.

turbos70t5 · Post by **turbos70t5** » 13 Sep 2010, 20:59

Definitely go through the passenger side wheel well, that's the easiest way to get to the oil thermostat housing. I replaced my upper oil cooler line this past weekend and removing the oil thermostat gives you more room to remove the T30 Torx screw that holds the two oil line ends in the oil thermostat housing. Like said above the hardest part was taking off and putting back the bolt that supports the oil lines from hanging freely. I bought my genuine Volvo oil cooler line from FCP and it came with the green o ring for the thermostat side and black o ring along with clamp for the radiator side. Also performing an oil change will give you more room when the oil filter is removed while changing the oil cooler lines. It took me about 3.5 hours working nice and slow but I also replaced the upper radiator hose, so this job can definitely be done by somebody that works on there own cars.

KLS · Post by **KLS** » 13 Sep 2010, 21:49

Thanks for the info.

I think I'll consider using 1/2" I.D. hydraulic hose. I'll reuse the steel ends, strip off the crimp fittings, and put the new hose on with the usual screw clams...or have a local hydraulic hose shop crimp new fittings on. As long as the hose is suitable for oil at the pressure and temperature, it'll work find. Pressure isn't a problem. The temperature rating can be 250°F or 275° or something similar.

The oil filter can be removed without draining the oil. I may take it off if it gives more room.

Post by **holler1** » 14 Sep 2010, 06:40

That should work. Let us know how it works out.

Jellobmw · Post by **Jellobmw** » 14 Sep 2010, 06:42

Pain in the butt job. Having done it once, I'll have someone else do it if ever needed again.

SidneyAB · Post by **SidneyAB** » 19 Apr 2011, 13:23

hi,

Somebody knows the o'ring size for oil lines in the radiator?

Regards.

Post by **holler1** » 20 Apr 2011, 06:46

I had two left over and measured them. I'm assuming they are the same for the radiator end and cooler end - not sure which these are but I think the cooler end. Looks like 16 mm OD and about 2.5 mm thickness.

Crotext · Post by **Crotext** » 13 Oct 2011, 18:00

I have an 850, '97 and working on a leaking oil cooler line. I took everything apart with ease until trying to get to the
thermostat housing mentioned above. I can't even access the single torx screw holding the lines on the thermostat housing and the other two on the housing are akin to being frozen or welded in. Can somebody tell me the exact tool and size to remove those two bolts or a way to break them loose? I have tried what is a metric #5 hex that I thought fit but it turned leaving a bigger problem. I have noticed that not to often when good folks describe these type jobs, they fail to mention bolt.and/or nut head sizes. Example here would be the bolt holding the line support brackets which can barely be seen. It turns out to be a #10 and I am planning to notch the brackets so I can insert the bolt first to save a tough task on install.

Post by **holler1** » 13 Oct 2011, 18:29

From my pictures, it looks like a #30 Torx for the screw holding the lines on. This is the picture,
https://picasaweb.google.com/1133845974 ... 8208512146
and the other photos on this site include some of the bracket screw. The two screws holding the thermostat on are also Torx, and they are easily accessible through the wheel well. Use lots of WD40 or something similar on them.