Time for brakes!

[Ozark Lee]

I bought cross drilled rotors from an outfit called UC Autoparts in Canada for all of my 850s. They make a weird whirring noise when braking from 75 MPH to 0 MPH to make a hard turn across a divided highway but I have yet to have one warp on me. All of the rotors that I replaced were warped. The UC Autoparts rotors were actually Raybestos rotors that I'm guessing some kid in the shop set in the jig and drilled tapered holes into them.

My daughter's S-70 has real squeaky brakes so I will need to deal with that soon and I will likely go the same route.

The Mintex Reds are OK but they are still kinda dirty but nothing like how dirty the OEM pads are.

If nothing else the cross drilled rotors look kinda cool.

...Lee

[j_cd]

Under heavy braking, the rotor vents allow off gassing from the pads to escape. A quite noticeable improvement on the highway at 85 mph.

Interesting. When I first saw slotted rotors I figured they were for better heat dissipation during extreme braking, racing, etc...

I've got a pair of those red Mintex pads here. I should put them on soon. The pads on there now have some life left but squeak like crazy. It's embarrassing. I've got a tube of that Volvo PTFE silicone grease for the back of the new pads.

[Ozark Lee]

Sil Glyde brake grease has worked well for me. I just butter the back of the pads and the shims.

...Lee

[JDS60R]

http://www.centricparts.com

+1 on Syl-glyde

No need to buy the high performance set up. Their standard rotor and semi metallic pads are wonderful. I have a local vendor here. Call Centric and ask them for your local vendor. Bring cash as it usually a warehouse and expect good things. We have put these on almost everything since 2000 with nothing but rave reviews. No comebacks,warped rotors etc.

Make sure that your caliper slides freely or pick up a rebuild kit ($10) while you are at the warehouse.

[jblackburn]

Sounds like most of y'all like the drilled/slotted ones, eh? I'll definitely consider them then...not warping is a good enough reason for me to spend the few extra bucks. I can't stand driving a car that doesn't drive/stop smoothly. Mine now aren't warped much, but they do shake a little bit if you slow down fast from a very high speed.

I know all about the Syl-Glyde already, my rear brakes usedta squeal like a stuck pig when I first got the car, even though they had plenty of pad left.

[t5rrr]

+1 for Centric Rotors and Akebono Ceramic pads

[E Showell]

I'm partial to the Akebono ceramics. Nice progressive braking action and virtually dustless. I've been pleased with Zimmerman rotors and I have used ATE Premium Ones as well. I like those for the coating and built in wear indicator. Brembos I believe are all now made in China.

[swedehast]

Godd Day J A

I replaced all wheel brakes on my wifes 2002 XC 70 last year with Brembo " OEM " rotors via FCP. The car has 11.75 rotors not ventilated. I did get the ake ceramics with the rotors. Whole job parts were just at $ 300, less the MV bonus. The box the rotors came in was printed made in Italy.

This year I replaced my 96 850 R big brakes ( Brembo drilled ) with like ( also via FCP ), ceramic pads...

I REALLY clean the new rotors with brakeclean and detergent before install and I bed the brakes in pretty slowly over a few days to get some slow buildup on the heat cycles.

Short story is both my wife and I prefer the action of her brakes, REAL progressive and very strong, quiet, really nice.

No question mine are better at the high speed side of things, vent the heat better, but for " normal " driving no question prefer the feel of her brakes.

I bought brakes and pads from IPD a couple years back for my 94 850Twgn. I got the Zimmerman and stock pads. Nice, adequate. Pricing about the same.

Hope this helps

[jblackburn]

Got her back together! As always, some minor complications.

I went with Akenbono ceramics and the Zimmerman cross-drilled rotors. Thanks to everyone for the advice.

Thanks especially to fellow Blacksburg member t5ftw for coming out to help me & having all kinds of awesome tools. We had a good day of changing brakes, trying to find missing parts, and changing the coolant on his car.

Also changed out the brake fluid, bled the brakes, and changed PS fluid. A side note for anyone trying to compress the caliper piston...put the caliper against the frame of the car and pump the jack up into it. Voila! Compressed piston in about 10 seconds...much better than sitting there prying at it like I did on the back ones.

Whatever moron installed brakes last time left off one of the caliper bolts on the left side , and there's no SPRING on the right side (probably why that one was squealing to begin with!) The old pads still had probably 10,000 miles or more in them - I was just tired of them shrieking every time I came to a stop. The rotor on the left was nearly impossible to get off from all the rust - right one came off in 3 whacks with a hammer.

I'm extremely pleased with the smoothness - and stopping power is very good so far once the pads wore in. I'll have to see how they do on a cold morning.

End result =)

Old brake pads

[patrioty3k]

Hey Jess! Great to hear you've had good luck with the pads and cross-drilled rotors...i work in a machine shop/bearing test facility and we always have had no luck with an interrupted surface, it tends to have the "cheese grater" effect....anyway my squeaky problem still exists....no clue.....sanded rotors,ceramic pads,syl-glyde,new caliper,other than that,would not get rid of her!