Catalytic Converter - Clamp it or Replace it?

[vjaneczko]

So when I stomped on the gas the other night I heard - and felt - a BAM, and then the world became very noisy. I could just barely hear my daughter laughing at the situation. Here’s what happened:

So my question is this: can I get a stainless steel seal band exhaust clamp to reconnect these two tubes or do I need to replace the catalytic converter?

If I can go with the clamp, what size should it be?

If I go with replacing the whole thing, is it bolt-on or is welding involved?

Since its extremely loud, I don’t want to drive it around to muffler shops for estimates, so I’m hoping anyone can pass along suggestions.

[darkcountry]

i would say they can prob weld it back together. but most likely you will need to replace it. i mean if it is old enough for a weld to break its prob time for a new one. instead of driving to muffler shops just call them. most will give you a quote for a temp fix or replacement.
you can get either the whole bolt on exhaust section (not 100% sure on this model) which is much more expensive, or you can get just the converter that will need to be welded in place.

[vjaneczko]

I've never done any welding, but do you think there'd be enough metal to weld it back together? I'd think there's too much rust to melt it back together again.

As for replacing it, has anyone replaced the cat and can give me any pointers? Seems I just need to jack up the car, remove the O2 sensors, and swap out the cat - but am I missing anything?

[turbotim2]

From the pic, it looks like it can be welded. I have done a lot of welding and could probably get it. The surfacr rust will need to be ground off. I have also replaced a cat on one of my 850's, it is pretty easy but be prepared to replace one or both O2 sensors as they (particularly the rear) weld themselves into the bung. Be sure to buy the gasket for the front and the rear clamp. Be carefull not to buy the FCP rear clamp, it sucks. I got one from Advance that actually worked.

[g-volvo]

I had exactly the same problem. I limped it along for quite some time by shoving a 2" cast iron heating pipe in between the two pieces. it was still pretty loud, but not as bad as you might think. I thought about welding but decided to purchase a $250 web special (Davico) from a very popular volvo parts supplier on the internet. I've regretted the decision ever since. The Davico rattles like a box of rocks and is completely burned out. In doing some research, and speaking to a couple of volvo techs, the general advice is to replace the cat with a genuine volvo one. These cost $1100 at my local dealership. The car has been suffering from varieties of problems since I installed my web special. In all fairness it isn't clear to me if a bad cat was the cause of my problems, or if it was an unfortunate casualty of some other issue. My point is that if your cat is good otherwise, it 's worth considering a weld fix if you can get access to welding equipment/service. Cost should be much less than a new Cat and carries no compatibility risk.

I'd also point out that in my case the wall thickness was pretty thin, so you'd need some experience and welding to get a good seam.

Good point about the FCP clamp. It's completely useless. I had to take it in to get that replaced since it wasn't holding the exhaust joint at all.

good luck.
G.

[cn90]

If you ever use aftermarket Cat, use the "DEC" brand.
I put DEC cat in my BMW and it works great for years.

[vjaneczko]

The quick solution was to take it to Midas and have them weld a pipe on. 76 bucks was the cost and should get me through a few months befoe I have to buy a new cat - I figure use it 'till I get a rear O2 sensor error code!