My daughter's 93 244 has 184000 miles. The car was completely worn out when I bought it for her. I have replaced tons of stuff but I will keep this list to those things that I thought were causing the rattle.
I have replaced all possible bushings in the front end with rubber replacements. I have replaced the ball joints and the outside tie rod ends. I have replaced both front struts (twice cause one lost its gas about 6 months after it was installed). All nuts and bolts were torqued to the proper torque per the Haynes manual.
After all of this and checking for loose parts, etc. I still have a rattle. Not a thump or thud or knock. It is a loud rattle that never shows up on smooth pavement. However, when I run over rough pavement or gravel road it is ever present.
So, after having done all that, what do you think it could be? Honestly, I was almost nuts when I started. I am pretty much certifiable now. Help me get back my sanity.
Thanks,
Bill
240 93 Rattle in left front
bill ,,re strut replacement did you torque strut top nuts my 240 had a rattle similar to yours the retaining nut had worked loose a common problem top insert nut not torqued ..mine would only rattle on similar roads hope this helps
cheers jack m [new zealand]
cheers jack m [new zealand]
just been to another Volvo site..caliper locating pin was a rattle a guy had on his Volvo just a thought .. i drive a 360 1985 Volvo.i surf the Volvo sites found this site the best..bill of Durham very knowledgeable..Volvo UK not the best for 360s don't no why. i have owned 3 x240 series and a 960 1985 now driving a 360 cheers jack m
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Retired MVS Contributor
I had that in the right front of a 1977 245...Turned out to be a loose wheel bearing...And as was suggested, it could be a broken, missing, or omitted anti-rattle spring in the caliper...
There are four large bolts through the front axle beam and the main frame that sometimes work loose, but they usually make a heavy clunk...
There are four large bolts through the front axle beam and the main frame that sometimes work loose, but they usually make a heavy clunk...
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
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I was surprised at the lack of knowledge of the 300 series on that site. There was a good demand for them in the UK when first launched.Volvo UK not the best for 360s don't no why.
I see you are a member of the best 300 site - Volvo 300 Mania.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
Thank you all for the replies. I don't think it is a wheel bearing. I left out that I had repacked and torqued them too. Since I hired the strut/shock replacement done I think that bears investigation.
My questions are,
Can I check the torque with the strut assembly in the car?
My torque wrench is the socket type. It looks like the shaft that has the nut on it has to be held while the nut is being turned. If that is the case I can't use my torque wrench. What is the alternative?
If I looked at the specs right, the torque is 15 foot pounds. Is that correct?
Again, thank you for your feedback.
Bill
My questions are,
Can I check the torque with the strut assembly in the car?
My torque wrench is the socket type. It looks like the shaft that has the nut on it has to be held while the nut is being turned. If that is the case I can't use my torque wrench. What is the alternative?
If I looked at the specs right, the torque is 15 foot pounds. Is that correct?
Again, thank you for your feedback.
Bill
Well, I took the Volvo over to a neighbor's house. They are the ones that just put in a hydraulic lift. They are REALLY good neighbors now if you know what I mean.
Anyway, the problem was the rear bolt on the left side control arm. I had torqued it in the vise on the bench then attached it and the housing. Apparently, after it flexed a bit it needed re-torqueing. I was able to see better on the lift than I had with jack stands and a creeper.
Thanks for the help,
Bill
Anyway, the problem was the rear bolt on the left side control arm. I had torqued it in the vise on the bench then attached it and the housing. Apparently, after it flexed a bit it needed re-torqueing. I was able to see better on the lift than I had with jack stands and a creeper.
Thanks for the help,
Bill
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