Battery Problems With S60 Turbo 2 Ltr 2003 RHD.

Billda · Post by **Billda** » 11 Nov 2010, 08:24

Hi, I am a new guy so please bear with me!! Had this S60 about 8 years now and no problems until this one.Couple of times the battery died on me for no particular reason not when travelling but after several days not in use(up to a week).Did an overnight trickle charge and was fine for another week or so then failed again. Carried out checks with an avo and current clamp to see if any leakage current, or devices taking too much current, both with and without the engine running. none of them look oos. Was advised it probably was the battery itself, changed this for for a new Varta 80ah,740cca, a higher spec than the original. Guess what, did the same again after couple of weeks.Did all the checks again same results. One thing I did notice was that when running the engine @ 2k revs the charging voltage was 13.5v, current 3.5amps, measured at the battery,
seemed a wee bit low and did not increase with a few more revs. With the engine off and every thing else off these readings were 12.5v and 00.00amps. Beginning to suspect the alternator maybe or the starter even but this would have shown on the the power of readings. I am afraid I am rapidly running out of ideas and would appreciate someones advice.

regds, Billda.

Post by **JRL** » 11 Nov 2010, 10:43

Don't forget to check the cables.
Volvo cables tend to go south after 5-8 years

RaymanSean · Post by **RaymanSean** » 11 Nov 2010, 18:56

00.00 AMPS is not zero. You may have a small mA drain that is pulling the battery down. Did you install anything lately?

Billda · Post by **Billda** » 12 Nov 2010, 09:10

Hi RS, Thanks for your prompt reply. I appreciate that the amp clamp i am using does not have the resolution on mA range (auto) trying to obtain more suitable model. No new items installed other than the new battery and I also started using a 12v/10a tyre inflator. The car has only done 34k miles and no problems until this started around a month ago. Appears it takes 2 to 3 weeks to show itself I am checking readings daily to look for any changes. Would hate to get a new alternator fitted and find it was not that. You have heard about these tight Scotsmen!!! Anyways thanks for your assistance. regd Billda.

Billda · Post by **Billda** » 12 Nov 2010, 09:27

Hi JRL, Thanks for your reply. Hope this gets to you as I am not too sure how to send a reply to the correct person.
Took your advice and checked out associated cables and connectors as well as I could they all look in pretty good condition. A partial short is going to be quite difficult to nail down. As another replier has pointed out I need to get a better low mA current clamp. I am monitoring daily to catch any changes, regds Billda.

RaymanSean · Post by **RaymanSean** » 12 Nov 2010, 20:06

Once you get a good amp-meter, start pulling fuses to see if you can stop the drain. I know that with newer BMWs they have a house load that will shutdown 15min after the last event (ie opening doors, unlocking car, etc). I would still start pulling and note the ones that cause the current to go down and make a note of them and the amount the current droped. Then after 30 min or so check the current again if it has gone down then based on the amount you may be able to eliminate one circuit as the cause. After that you will have to pull the fusses you noted one at a time with 30 min between to see which circuit is your cause. If the answer is none then you need to clamp the alternator and starter to see if for some reason they are pulling a load. Good luck these things can be hard to track down. Take notes and be methodical.

Billda · Post by **Billda** » 13 Nov 2010, 05:14

Hi RS, Thanks again. yes I do need a suitable meter unfortunatly my Avo 10 only goes up to 10Amps and you have the problem of breaking into the line and if you have over 10A might damage the meter. I have carried a check on the alternator as per a web site and only using voltage readings. They look ok, with engine off and most things off showing 12.3v @ battery, engine started and min load 14v idling, 14.5V @ 2K revs. Started adding the heavy users one at a time giving readings from 14.1v to 14.2v with most of these on together 13.9v. Current readings were not reliable will hope to get another one on Monday so hope that will help. Meanwhile will monitor the battery voltage to see if it changes significantly. regds Billda.

RaymanSean · Post by **RaymanSean** » 13 Nov 2010, 07:45

If your clamp on is not registering current then I would use your inline meter (make sure that the leads are arranged for current) and some clips to clip the leads between the cable and the battery. Most meters have fuses to protect the meter from excessive current along as you have the leads in the right place. If the current is more than 10A which i doubt since your clamp on indicates otherwise the fuse will blow and then you will have to replace the fuse but nothing else will be lost.

Billda · Post by **Billda** » 14 Nov 2010, 09:45

Managed to connect my inline meter Initial readings were 4.5 amps moving down to 200mA to 300mA within 20 seconds then cycling between these two levels. Removed fuses and relays one at a time from the boxes in the engine compartment and the boot. No change except when I removed the fuse#3 15amp in the boot for the Brake light the current reading rose to twice the value ?? I still have to do the fuses in the passenger compartment (bad light stopped play) I wonder if this reading I am getting is the norm?? Other news was that the voltage @ the battery dropped from 12.4 to 12.1v over-night, will keep monitoring.
Regds Billda.

RaymanSean · Post by **RaymanSean** » 15 Nov 2010, 18:55

Hmmm sounds like you have 1) a bad ground that is causing current to flow through the lights or 2) a faulty brake light switch. I have not had the joy of trouble shooting the brake light switch nor do I know if it is an actual switch or tied up with the brake pedal position sensor.