DDDM Tuning E Code eliminators - Do I need them?

mrbluesky · Post by **mrbluesky** » 14 Nov 2010, 17:48

Hi,
Going to step up to a set of H7 HID bulbs (35w 6000k) from DDM Tuning thanks to some information from you guys on this great site. Will I need the Error Code eliminator kit for my 2002 S60?
Thanks

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 14 Nov 2010, 18:36

Yeah, I would get it...the older cars do fine without it but from '01 on, there is much more computerized stuff that will make your car think your bulbs are not right with this setup. Good news is the eliminator is cheap!

mrbluesky · Post by **mrbluesky** » 14 Nov 2010, 18:48

Ok, will do. Their web site does not have the install guide for this item. Do you know how to install this or can you point me to a thread that discusses its interface with the HID kit? Thanks!

mrbluesky · Post by **mrbluesky** » 14 Nov 2010, 23:10

Also, based on the information that I have read today on sharphid.com I will need a 55w kit with the BOW3 error code eliminators for my 2002 S60 (their version of the E code eliminators is called BOW3). The 35w kit may cause the lights to not come on at all. Any experience with the 35 w kits on 2001 plus S60's to the contrary?
Thanks!

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 18 Nov 2010, 09:30

Here's the dealio, assuming your car has stock 55w wiring:

-A 35w HID kit will need the BOW3 eliminator.
-A 55w HID kit will not need the BOW3 eliminator.

With a 35w kit, the BOW3 should be all you need. If you have problems with the lights not firing up, then you'll probably need to invest in the extra battery wiring harness. Neither of the kits should need the extra battery wiring harness, but it is recommended for the 55w as to not fry the stock wiring and will likely help if either of the lights are not firing up consistently.

mrbluesky · Post by **mrbluesky** » 22 Nov 2010, 20:35

Cool! Thanks for the info Ed. I plan on trying out the install in a week or so with the kit I have. Will post what happens.

mrbluesky · Post by **mrbluesky** » 28 Nov 2010, 16:07

ecbsykes wrote:Here's the dealio, assuming your car has stock 55w wiring:

-A 35w HID kit will need the BOW3 eliminator.
-A 55w HID kit will not need the BOW3 eliminator.

With a 35w kit, the BOW3 should be all you need. If you have problems with the lights not firing up, then you'll probably need to invest in the extra battery wiring harness. Neither of the kits should need the extra battery wiring harness, but it is recommended for the 55w as to not fry the stock wiring and will likely help if either of the lights are not firing up consistently.

Ok, so I decided to refurb the wiring (OEM to the light bulb) and went to a local auto parts store and purchased an H7 wiring harness and some butt splicers. The HID light worked with the existing wiring but it was so messed up (the entire plastic portion was broken and gone) I decided to replace it. Once I did splice the wires and added the new H7 wiring harness the HID did not fire up. So I am at a standstill for the moment. Any ideas?
Could the new harness not be compatible for some reason?
Thanks.

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 30 Nov 2010, 14:22

Well you'll need to make sure that all the wiring was done correctly, as anything screwy in there may be causing problems. Did you do this on both headlights, or just one?

And are you talking about redoing the wiring inside the headlight housing or the one that connects to it from the car's power?

mrbluesky · Post by **mrbluesky** » 30 Nov 2010, 17:34

I did it on just the driverside light to try it out. Inside the housing - I can not figure out which harness is the low beam power source. About an inch behind the actual interface with the low beam H7 bulb (yellow/black wires and the little H7 sockets - the black plastic housing was broken long ago) is where I cut and attempted to splice in the new wire. Ed I checked racinglab.com and they have a heavy duty H7 wiring replacement with 14 gauge wire - not sure if that is a match to the original wire though.

Post by **kelvin6** » 31 Dec 2010, 12:11

I hate to bring up a old thread, but there is a nearly free way to eliminate the bulb out warning for the front headlights. I had to do this because I installed a heavy gauge wiring harness to drive my halogen bulbs (instead of the feeble stock wiring), because the relays on my harness trigger a bulb out warning. I did some research on the wiring diagram of the stock headlight system and found that if you take out the headlight relay, either a grey or green box under the fuse panel (the one by the driver side cowl piece) and flip it over you will notice a small pin labeled K. The K pin is a trigger for the bulb out warning light on the dash. If you block the pin, the bulb out warning light for the front headlights will not turn on (yet it will still work for the other lights of the car). I blocked this pin by putting a small piece of regular tape around the pin and carefully reinserting the relay back into its socket (so that the tape does peel off during reinsertion). This has cured my bulb out light for my front headlights. I understand that if one of my headlights goes out I will have no warning, but trust me i'll NOTICE when a headlight is out!