1995 Volvo 850 Auto Engine and transmission Removal Topic is solved

[Matty Moo]

I have mine completely apart in my garage right now. All I have left is to bolt the tranny up to the new engine and swap the new turbo over.

A couple questions.

Why new bolts for the flex plate and torque converter? And, do you use loc-tite on those?

Draining the torque converter. Did you put it back in dry, then fill the tranny?

I would have checked my Haynes, but the dog chewed it to shreds.

[wheelsup]

Well volvo's directions state to replace the torque converter and flywheel bolts .

The Torque converter bolts can probably be reused if you use loctite on them.
The Flywheel bolts had a sealant as well as being angled torqued IIRC so they would be stretched beyond their original capacity once removed. That being said, I read on "the other forum" that guys use an impact to reinstall the old bolts and never have any issues...so take that for what it's worth.

I emptied the torque converter to remove all the old fluid. You should add fluid to it, before install, but not too much or it will come out when you mate them together unless you are really quick or holding the trans at a positive angle (upward). As the tranny spins it will pump in fluid. The torque converter is essentially two non-connected turbines and fluid acts as the "force" to turn it on the tranny side so being a little bit low at first shouldn't hurt it. But it will need some in there in order to spin up the tranny side.

*Note* just what I have read, the tranny I pulled is still sitting on my garage floor. I don't have the nuts to try this on my daily driver right now, when we get my wife another car I'll drive her current one while I get my 850 fixed up. Possible piston ring job in it as well.

[twardnw]

I took on the task of replacing the rear main seal this weekend, this write-up was extremely helpful. While the Volvo Service Manual explains it fairly well,l the pictures and added bits of info help greatly. I do have one small change though.

In step 42, you mention not being able to get at 2 bolts on the belt side of the A/C compressor, but, while performing step 49 (removing pass side motor mount) if you use a 3/8 drive ratchet with a deep 14mm socket, you can reach forward from the crank pulley and remove those 2 bolts. For re-assembly of the A/C compressor, I found it much much easier to remove the alternator (it's only 2 more bolts).

All-in-all, I managed to mostly complete the majority of this job in 20 hours this weekend (yeah, I'm sore now).

One question though, on initial startup, my CEL is on and trans light is flashing, would this be due to having low fluid? It is now topped off, battery is disconnected (will that clear CEL codes?)?

[twardnw]

Well, I'm guessing that the flashing trans light was due to the low fluid on the initial startup, did not come back on when I reconnected the battery.

[cambiecbc]

Very clear and great writing!

[chashiubow]

Thanks so much for you detail writeup. Wouldn't even consider doing this without your photos.

[ManManOhMan]

I'm in the process of disconnecting my engine right now for removal. Does anyone know what the differences are going to be since I have a turbo?

To be more specific, should I attempt to remove the engine with the exhaust manifold still on (with the turbo still attached to the manifold)? How many bolts are there and where are they located. To tell the truth, I really don't have a good view back there and what's all going on. Alls I know is, i soaked everything I could get to back there with PB Blaster.

Updates I have the intake manifold, fan, radiator, airbox/hoses, and vacuum lines removed. I still haven't disconnected any transmission components or lines or disconnected any belt driving accessories.

If anybody can give me some help on this, it would be huge!

Thanks,
Manmanohman

[erikv11]

The turbo engine swaps I have done, I left the turbo on. You just unhook at the flange, three bolts.

You will have to go back and pull the axles to free up the transmission. Or if you are going to separate the transmission then read this from jimmy57, actually I would read through the whole thing several times:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=49910

[ManManOhMan]

ericv11, Sweet thank you for this knowledgeable reply.

I've been learning as I've been going, and I hope I don't seem too ridiculous or incompetent asking this question, but is the flange a part of the exhaust manifold or is it between the turbo and manifold?

Yea, as far as the axles, I've been holding that off cause I'm really not ready to go yet as far as part wise (engine, new o-rings, and hoist) and I have to run to the auto store to rent an 32mm socket and 36mm socket for the axle nuts.

So I can't wait till I'm ready to go but I figured I might as well start disconnecting everything while I can. It's sort of a good thing that I don't have this engine and hoist right now because I'd be stuck (really second guessing )at this exhaust manifold situation right now.

[erikv11]

On the hot side of the turbo, the exhaust flange is like a 3-way connector between the exhaust manifold, the turbo, and the downpipe. It is cast iron, take a look over the top of your engine you will see it at the junction of these three things. A v-band clamp holds it to the turbo, three bolts hold it to the exhaust manifold, and three nuts hold it to the downpipe (hope I got the nuts and bolts straight - maybe it is all studs and nuts I do not recall).

Since the exhaust manifold is staying on with this method, you unhook the flange at the downpipe. Leave the turbo connected to the manifold connected to the engine. The turbo manifold is much flatter than the NA manifold and you can leave it on.

You have to be careful with clearance for the turbo with this method. Some people probably remove the turbo too just to make room when the hoist is attached, I think you can do that most easily by unhooking the v-band clamp. But I have left it on.

OK from google, a turbo with the flange attached: