1987 240DL drive belt rerouting possible?

myspv · Post by **myspv** » 17 Nov 2010, 14:09

Hey folks,
My wife's 245 just lost power steering. A quick look under the hood and I saw that the belt connecting the crankshaft pulley to the A/C condenser pulley had come off. No big deal. The A/C hasn't worked in years, and for now she'll have to use a little more muscle to turn the wheel at low speed.
The belt I recovered is fine. It was just lying on top of the bash guard.
A few questions:
1) Is it ok to leave it this way for a while or will the tension on the other belts be affected?
2) In the current state, with the motor running, I notice a wobble on the crankshaft pulley. This seems like a bad thing to me. Is it? Is this a sign of eventual failure, like the pulley working itself off? (I think this may be why the other belt fell off in the first place.)
3) Is it possible to route a new belt from the crankshaft to the power steering pulley, thereby bypassing the A/C pulley?

Any insights are appreciated.

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 17 Nov 2010, 14:52

I'm thinking that I saw a conversion kit in an IPD catalog for 240's to eliminate the A/C compressor.

karibakid · Post by **karibakid** » 17 Nov 2010, 15:39

thats correct ipd can do cheers jack m

myspv · Post by **myspv** » 17 Nov 2010, 19:13

Thnks. I will call IPD tomorrow as the website indicates fitment only for 78-84.

Any thoughts about parts 1 or 2?

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 17 Nov 2010, 21:12

I should have read your post more carefully. You probably have a crankshaft pulley that is slipping. To verify this, with the engine stopped, place a mark on the front of the pulley running from the outer edge to the inner hub. Start engine for a few minutes and then stop engine and if the mark is no longer lined up, the crankshaft outer ring with the belt grooves is slipping on the rubber ring.

myspv · Post by **myspv** » 18 Nov 2010, 08:17

yeah ... I was reading about that. I suspect you may be right.
do you guys know whether I need a special tool to remove the pulley? I do have air tools. I saw that FCP sells a "counter hold tool", but I'm thinking this is only needed to hold the pulley when using a regular wrench. will I need a puller to get it off the shaft?

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 18 Nov 2010, 09:12

I used the rope trick to keep the crankshaft from moving. The crankshaft pulley removal doesn't require a puller, it may be stubborn to remove but it isn't pressed on.

Post by **billofdurham** » 18 Nov 2010, 11:35

Any thoughts about parts 1 or 2?

1. It should be sorted ASAP for your wife's safety. On cars with power steering which has failed manual steering is heavier than the same model without power steering.

2. The symptoms of a failed harmonic balancer as lummert has said.

The counter hold tool holds the bottom pulley still whilst you remove the exceptionally stubborn nut on the crankshaft. There are various other methods for holding the pulley - the rope trick; a plumber's strap; wrench propped up on blocks and engine cranked (I have seen this one tried and the wrench came out like a rocket, straight through the radiator); screwdriver wedged in the flywheel (I have used this one on a B23 engine). All of these methods save you the cost of the tool BUT they may cost you more in the long run as the B230 lower timing pulleys have a little 'nib' extrusion that does the work of a keyway/shaft. It is a cast part and it is delicate. When it breaks all of your belts stop turning and it is a special order to replace it.

If you know someone who is in to metalwork you could have a tool made up by following these plans.

Bill.