94 960 ---Ignition Problem

[Kappy5003]

The body of the problem was listed in another post relating to Air Flow Meter, so thought I would list under seperate subject to minimise confusion.

A few months back experienced a problem where had been used in ealry part of day then later went to start, turned ignition dash lights lit, turn ignition clunk nothing like flat battery.

So get car home check battery, all connections fuses etc all ok.

Then power returns as nysteriously as it had dissapeared. Car started all ok no problems till last Thursday.

Once again drove car in Morning then again in afternoon stop to refuel, go to start Dead!!!!
Pushed out of way and started checking battery fuses etc all good.

Something worthy of note is ,I feel I may have faulty ignition switch, symptoms- start car SRS dash light is lit, no other electrics ie radio indicators, lights etc. then jiggle key and all is good again. I believe common problem, had similiar prob with 96 850.

So start to fiddle with some wires around steering column and mystery power returns start car and drive home.

Then today went to start car but this time all is working and SRS on dash is lit and notice need to do radio code as if battery has been disconnected although not the case.

Turn off ignition and dies again???????

This afternoon more investigation, no power ie interior lights, remove fuse cover near drivers door (RHD) and power returns????

Start car all ok however SRS remains lit not an issue before?

So on checking ignition switch with engine running touched switch ( not power connections just body)on steering column and then nothing????

Managed to get power again and touched again, this time nothing happened????? curious.

Since then things have got worse power returns intermitently and on turning ignition , dies power gone.

I have done voltage test at ignition switch connections with engine running same voltage as at battery, when power dissappears, votage nil.

I have fiddled with some wires under dash and have had power return, then again fiddled with wires on other occasions and nothing maybe just coincidence???

Please can someone help any ideas on problem

[Kappy5003]

Short update to saga.

Yesterday whilst doing more routine checks found a wire that may be associated to the aftermarket immobiliser, that appeared to be an earth wire than didn't appear to be ground properly. Reground wire and instantly power was returned.

Turned on the ignition and the engine roared into life, well you can imagine my elation.

Interesting to note this wire was ground near cab fuses near right door, an area I had experienced coincidently touched on earlier occasions when power had returned.

Well did about 10 stop starts and all ok.

So went about my daily business covering approx 70 km and stop starting approx 5 more times.

Well on returning home as I approched the driveway I noticed the ABS dash light flicker and heard a noise that appeared to eminate from around the left dash area and I stopped under the car port clunk dead again .

How frustrating.

Can anyone help with advise opinion---can a faulty ignition switch cause this failure, can a faulty computer cause this type of failure or am I still searching for another faulty electricial connection.

Please can someone assist I am at the end of my tether.

[pgregston]

Am curious if you resolved this. There seem to be a lot of ground issues that resolve all manner of electrical problems on the forum. One just has to know which ground is relevant to which problem.

[Kappy5003]

Hi
I've been away working, so car is where I left it on ramps.

I decided to buy a new ignition switch as there was some evidence of it being faulty ( engine running SRS light on and no radio, A/C, indicators etc., jiggle key and all would be ok.) prior to complete meltdown.

Only cost $70 from Volvo dealer quite reasonable I thought.

Install new switch still nothing then interior light comes on indicators flash as immobiliser actives.

Turn key no power. Walks away in disgust frustration.

Return some time later interior light on, turn key on nothing power goes as stated before.

Some one has fitted a separate after-market immobiliser prior to me owning.

I was wondering if this could be the culprit but I'm not game to snip as wires going everywhere not really knowing where they lead to? Help maybe

I have a memory of someone on a forum mentioning an ignition relay, I was wondering where this may be and could it be faulty. Help

I've checked all wiring from battery through to starter nothing obvious.

HELP PLEASE

[billofdurham]

The ignition relay is on the left, front shock tower near the OBD unit. You should see two relays exactly the same. The front one is the radio suppression relay and the other is the ignition coil relay.

As for the after market immobilizer most people fitting them don't usually hide the wires too well. Start at the immobilizer box and work back on all the wires coming from the box. Unless it is a high end unit there won't be too many wires to check.

Bill.

[Kappy5003]

Thanks Bill
This is really giving the @$#$*#@, guess I'll just plugging away, a bit timid about paying someone to go on a learning curve.

What I did yesterday was unravel all the tape around immobiliser and disconnected a plug between immobiliser to near steering column. Also had new ignition switch disconnected from steering column
Anyway interesting turn of events this morning went to check on car and as usual interior lights on. So turn ignition on at ignition switch dash lights come on and engine turns over. Turn over again engine starts second having sat idle for about 5 months.

Turn off and on about 5 times all good except SRS light being on deal with later I thinks to myself.

So connect ignition back to position on steering column reconnect plug to immobiliser car runs for about 2 minutes more then stops everything dead again.

Frustrated goes inside to kick cat, then remembers don';t have a cat. Anyway have a coffee, then goes out to redress issue, now car has locked to door with keys in ignition (shouldn't leave keys in ignition, nearest neighbour 10 km s away)

New dilemma any clues on how to unlock 960 without keys????

[billofdurham]

I do know a very nice boy who can get into any car without keys but at the moment he is working for the Queen in one of her prisons.

Seriously, there are two ways I do know.

1. Using a length of plastic packing strap, doubled over to make a loop, ease the top of the door away from the body far enough to push the strap through. Move the strap down to the unlock button in the top of the door, put the loop over the button, pull the strap until it has a good hold on the button and then move the strap up. As far as I can remember the buttons on the '94 model were not the anti-theft type.

2. A locksmith will get in as easily as the nice boy I mentioned.

3. OK, I said two ways but this came in a blinding flash. A Volvo dealer should be able to cut a key from the VIN.

Bill.

[Kappy5003]

Thanks Bill
I had a re think, as the internal door locks are on the side of the door next to the door handle.

Here is how I got the doors unlocked. For no real particular reason I used the front passenger door.
Armed with a long piece of strong thin wire approx 1 metre long ( for non metric countries a yard will do) and a number of long shaft screwdrivers.

Near the top corner of the door near the centre pillar I gently pry a screwdriver between the door seal and the body, can put some insulation tape over end of screwdriver to protect paint work and seal. Gently force the door away from the body.

With another screwdriver insert a little lower than 1st one and gradually repeat process until there is a small gap between door seal and body, only needs to be a few millimetres wide, just wide enough to insert wire.

Unsure wire is reasonably straight and make small hook at one end, only needs to be about 12 mm or 1/2 inch.

Insert wire in gap aiming for inside door handle, bit hard to see lock tab from outside I used opposite door to give the correct angle.

A little bit of trial and error when hook hand door lock and gentle tug and door is unlocked and open.

Bill back to the power issue, after unlocking door observed no power inside.

I happened to the front of the vehicle and out of the blue attached my volt meter to battery, reading 12.8 volt so with positive end still connected to + on battery I connected the negative lead of voltmeter to negative cable from battery to where its screwed to chassis and noted reading to 8.5 volts. Should there be such a big drop in voltage between battery to end of approx 300mm of earth lead?

Thoughts on this would be very welcome.

Cheers
Wayne

[Retired MVS Contributor]

One, or maybe both of your battery cables is bad...You can find out which one by connecting your multi-meter to both ends of the SAME CABLE!!!...The difference between your battery voltage and your test point is 4.3 volts and the meter will read that drop when it is connected to both ends of the guilty cable...

Your best bet is to replace both cables, but if that is not a workable option due to proximity to a dealer, etc, then remove and clean them at both ends, especially at the battery posts and the inside of the cable terminal where it fits over the post...SHINE them up!!!...

When the voltage drops too low to certain electronic modules they will shut down for self protection, then return later when the battery recovers it's voltage after a rest...

Good luck...

Jerry

[billofdurham]

Wayne,

Getting into cars like that is how the nice boy I know is working for the Queen. It does prove that the locks are only there to keep out honest people.

+1 on Jerry's post.

Bill.