Timing belt replacement?
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V70Johnson
- Posts: 18
- Joined: 3 January 2009
- Year and Model:
- Location: Auburn, Wa.
Re: Timing belt replacement?
I had mine done by an Indie in March & decided to go "full boat" - timing & serp. belts, tensioner, idler & water pump at 87k miles. Set me back about $575 but the peace of mind is priceless!
Would this be the correct kit to buy?
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/201
I went to another local shop today, the guy said he will do the labor for $250, does this sound right?
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/201
I went to another local shop today, the guy said he will do the labor for $250, does this sound right?
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Ozark Lee
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14798
- Joined: 7 September 2006
- Year and Model: Many Volvos
- Location: USA Midwest
- Has thanked: 4 times
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Labor at $250 is very reasonable if they are replacing everything. To do the full boat (all rollers, tensioner, and water pump) change it takes me around 4 hours in the driveway.
...Lee
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
So I called the shop that specializes on Volvo's to get the exact pricing, the guy told me that for $413 parts and labor, they will replace the belt, tensioner and idler pulley, he said they use INA parts which are just like oem. If I bring in the parts he said the labor will be $225, the parts will cost me $179 (from fcp groton using their 10% off) now I am just debating on which option to choose.
I would seriously consider paying someone else to do the belt next time instead of doing it myself. That would have worked out to $32 an hour for my 7 hour nightmare.
You ought to just pay them for the parts (assuming they are good, never heard of "INA") so in case something goes wrong they can't just say "derrr, your parts failed, no recourse for you."
You ought to just pay them for the parts (assuming they are good, never heard of "INA") so in case something goes wrong they can't just say "derrr, your parts failed, no recourse for you."
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wheelsup
- Posts: 1296
- Joined: 28 June 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Raleigh, NC
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I'm about 90% sure the rollers on the car were INA from the factory. I'm pretty sure those are OEM.
I hate to admit this but I have an aftermarket tensioner on my car right now. Installed about 1 year ago. So far no issues. Scary thing is it is Scantech I believe. I bought the FCP kit that not only had a bad tensioner roller in it but also was an aftermarket tensioner. In their defense they did credit me the tensioner roller price but their marketing was deceptive and that is why I ended up with the aftermarket tensioner.
I really don't want to tear into it and put in a new tensioner so I am rolling the dice.
I hate to admit this but I have an aftermarket tensioner on my car right now. Installed about 1 year ago. So far no issues. Scary thing is it is Scantech I believe. I bought the FCP kit that not only had a bad tensioner roller in it but also was an aftermarket tensioner. In their defense they did credit me the tensioner roller price but their marketing was deceptive and that is why I ended up with the aftermarket tensioner.
I really don't want to tear into it and put in a new tensioner so I am rolling the dice.
1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 200,000 miles
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