Battery Problems With S60 Turbo 2 Ltr 2003 RHD.
Re: Battery Problems With S60 Turbo 2 Ltr 2003 RHD.
Hi there, Managed to get new current clamp, readings were as before. Tried the same clamp at the same point and conditions on my sons audi a4 and beleive it or not the readings were virtually the same. Meanwhile my battery voltage has dropped from from 12.2 to 11.9 volts. this is it with no charging for a full week and quite a few power interruptions when checking the fuses etc. Beginning to suspect the problem might be not running the car often or long enough. I normally do not get many long runs mostly short shopping runs which are probably not long enough. I will continue to check the battery voltage most days and see when it goes too far down, give it a trickle charge and see if I can live with it at these intervals. Again thank you very much for your kind assistance much appreciated.Good and Safe motoring. regds. Billda.
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Retired MVS Contributor
Clamp-on ammeters cannot measure down into the MA range...They react to the magnetic flux field existing around ALL wires and cables when current is flowing through them, but it has to be a heavy flow...Ever see a jumper cable jump up and stiffen when a big engine is started?...That's the flux field doing that and it can be measured if it is big enough...200 MA is not big enoough...
The in-line ammeter is the right way to go...4.5 amps is FAR to much and even 200 to 300 MA is too much...200 MA is about 10 times the normal parasitic draw...4.5 amps is off the charts and would kill a fully charged 60 ampere-hour battery in about 12 hours...You said it is fluctuating between the 2 readings...Did you mean between 4.5 amps and 200 MA or between 200 MA and 300 MA?...If it is fluctuating between 4.5 amps and 200 MA, it makes me think there is a circuit breaker somewhere that is cycling on and off and would point to a motor, like a window regulator, antenna motor, or windshield wiper motor...That motor would probably be hot to the touch...Continue pulling fuses until you find it...
I was a little thrown at first when you said you had an AVO because an AVO should have worked for you...I did not realize at the time that you were in the UK...Here in the states an AVO is a meter used in the auto industry to measure very heavy currents in starters and generators...I assume that by AVO you mean a meter the can measure Amps, Volts, and Ohms, more commonly called a multi meter over here...
The in-line ammeter is the right way to go...4.5 amps is FAR to much and even 200 to 300 MA is too much...200 MA is about 10 times the normal parasitic draw...4.5 amps is off the charts and would kill a fully charged 60 ampere-hour battery in about 12 hours...You said it is fluctuating between the 2 readings...Did you mean between 4.5 amps and 200 MA or between 200 MA and 300 MA?...If it is fluctuating between 4.5 amps and 200 MA, it makes me think there is a circuit breaker somewhere that is cycling on and off and would point to a motor, like a window regulator, antenna motor, or windshield wiper motor...That motor would probably be hot to the touch...Continue pulling fuses until you find it...
I was a little thrown at first when you said you had an AVO because an AVO should have worked for you...I did not realize at the time that you were in the UK...Here in the states an AVO is a meter used in the auto industry to measure very heavy currents in starters and generators...I assume that by AVO you mean a meter the can measure Amps, Volts, and Ohms, more commonly called a multi meter over here...
Hi Jerry, thanks for your reply, Wee bit of language difficulty, yes AVO is the name we use for most of our multi meters measuring Amps,Volts and Ohms. I was trying to avoid fitting my AVO into the battery circuit to measure current so tried using the current clamp meter which I was assured would resolve mAs but it didnt. I did connect in my AVO t in series to do the fuse checks and this showed the cycling between 200mA and 300mA @ a 2 to 3 second cycle rate. (very regular) The 3 to 4 Amp readings were when removing the fuse made the pc do a restart. I had to be carefull that I did not blow the rear-end out of my AVO it only takes 10 A max!! Anyways as I said in my previous posts it is proving a hard one to find.I still have the fuse box in the passenger dash to do as it involves having the car out of the garage to get the door open and it has been extremely stormy for the last week gales and rain, thats my excuse. After I get the fuses checks completed I am not sure what comes next, running out of ideas, would appreciate any you may have. Thanks again. Billda.
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Retired MVS Contributor
OK Bilda, we understand your lingo now...Billda wrote:Hi Jerry, thanks for your reply, Wee bit of language difficulty, yes AVO is the name we use for most of our multi meters measuring Amps,Volts and Ohms. I was trying to avoid fitting my AVO into the battery circuit to measure current so tried using the current clamp meter which I was assured would resolve mAs but it didnt. I did connect in my AVO t in series to do the fuse checks and this showed the cycling between 200mA and 300mA @ a 2 to 3 second cycle rate. (very regular) The 3 to 4 Amp readings were when removing the fuse made the pc do a restart. I had to be carefull that I did not blow the rear-end out of my AVO it only takes 10 A max!! Anyways as I said in my previous posts it is proving a hard one to find.I still have the fuse box in the passenger dash to do as it involves having the car out of the garage to get the door open and it has been extremely stormy for the last week gales and rain, thats my excuse. After I get the fuses checks completed I am not sure what comes next, running out of ideas, would appreciate any you may have. Thanks again. Billda.
200 t0 300 MA is still too high and whatever is causing it is your problem...You will find it by pulling fuses until you see that current draw quit...Normal parasitic draw will be about 25 MA...The hunting between 200 and 300 MA worries me, but it might be the meter you are using...Is this an analog or digital meter?...Analog meters give a constant reading...Digital meters take a sample reading every few milli secs and then display the readout, so it can bounce around a lot...That is why I prefer an analog meter for auromotive work, it eliminates guessing...Jerry
Hi,jerrymcc, Answer to your question, is the multimeter (AVO) I am using is an analog meter with six ranges, 1mA to 10 Amps.
This shows up the hunting very well. I have managed to get all the fuses checked, but still getting the same result. As they say in the States ' Tough excrement!!' Had the car up to Glasgow, ran like a 'Sweety'. I think now drastic measures require to be taken. I will be in touch and let you know what happens. Thanks once more, Billda.
This shows up the hunting very well. I have managed to get all the fuses checked, but still getting the same result. As they say in the States ' Tough excrement!!' Had the car up to Glasgow, ran like a 'Sweety'. I think now drastic measures require to be taken. I will be in touch and let you know what happens. Thanks once more, Billda.
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Retired MVS Contributor
You mean that you did not find a fuse that, when pulled, stopped the hunting ?...Very strange indeed...
Jerry
Jerry
Hello Jerry, Bad news I am afraid. I took the car to a local dealer and explained the situation, basically he said it could take up to three figures to take this on and no guarantees. decided to cut my losses. I got a great deal on beleive it or not a Ford so I jumped at it!! It is a shame to give up on this after all the help I got from you people especially yourself, I do appreciate it. So I am afraid it is back to pushing old Fords. If you are ever over Scotland way we would be delighted to see you ,we have one or two spare beds!!! Dont let the Haggis scare you. You have my email. Best regards, Billda.
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Retired MVS Contributor
Bilda:
Understand prefectly and cannot say I blame you...Too bad...
From the dealer's standpoint, I guess we have to understand his point of view, he has a lot of expenses and over head beginning with the mechanic'sc salary, which has to be a living wage for him if we are to hope for competence...
Good luck...
Jerry
Understand prefectly and cannot say I blame you...Too bad...
From the dealer's standpoint, I guess we have to understand his point of view, he has a lot of expenses and over head beginning with the mechanic'sc salary, which has to be a living wage for him if we are to hope for competence...
Good luck...
Jerry
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