94 960 ---Ignition Problem

Kappy5003 · Post by **Kappy5003** » 20 Nov 2010, 22:38

[quote="jerrymcc"]One, or maybe both of your battery cables is bad...You can find out which one by connecting your multi-meter to both ends of the SAME CABLE!!!...The difference between your battery voltage and your test point is 4.3 volts and the meter will read that drop when it is connected to both ends of the guilty cable...

Thanks Jerry

I measure between the two ends of the ground cable and yes the reading was as suggested.

I removed the factory shroud near the terminal and could see the ground cables are only crimped into the terminal.

On wriggling the cables I could see they were a tad loose and one started to come out ever so slightly.
When I ran a good earth from the battery to the chassis power was restored and I could start the car.
I will get new quality terminals tomorrow. and will see what happens next.

So thanks, I will keeps posted.

Kappy5003 · Post by **Kappy5003** » 29 Nov 2010, 15:43

[quote="jerrymcc"]One, or maybe both of your battery cables is bad...You can find out which one by connecting your multi-meter to both ends of the SAME CABLE!!!...The difference between your battery voltage and your test point is 4.3 volts and the meter will read that drop when it is connected to both ends of the guilty cable...

Just a current update, replaced both + & - terminals all cables now nice and secure.

Turn on key and power, turn key and we have ignition now over 5 days and still ok, may have solved problem.
I have had a fuel guage that was eratic , that too seems to be holding what seems to be true.

Now a couple of smaller issues in the scheme of things. Whilst messing about with the electric I seem to have activated the SRS warning light and clues on how to rectify short of removing globe from dash.

Second issue is now my immobiliser is now longer immobilising which aslo affects the remote central locking as it is linked.Still have central locking via key, don't this model has remote central locking. My idea is to replace the immobiliser with a better after market on. Is this a dauting task for the average bloke, is identifying the correct wiring available.

Still too cautious to go too far in 960 in case she dies again, have to regain confidence again.

Cheers

Post by **billofdurham** » 30 Nov 2010, 11:35

You should be able to cancel the light using the OBD unit in the engine compartment. Socket 5 in box "B" is SRS. Accessing code and resetting is same as for check engine light.

Your car should have remote central locking connected to the alarm and immobiliser. Do you have any remote controls?

Bill

Kappy5003 · Post by **Kappy5003** » 30 Nov 2010, 16:10

Your car should have remote central locking connected to the alarm and immobiliser. Do you have any remote controls?

Thanks Bill
SRS light de activated.

Originally I had remote central locking through immobiliser, but I must have done something as neither the immobiliser or central locking works via the remote.

The remote I have is an aftermaket so is the immobiliser. In australia we don't need extra immobiliser if car has chip in key like 960. People add aftermarket stuff to link to car central locking.

The impression I had is the local Aussie market 960 didn't have remote central locking, I'd be very interested to discover the where abouts of it if is there and how to activate it. Guess I would need genuine volvo remote in that case.

I had planned to remove the current on and install a better brand, was wondering the degree of difficulty involved??

Cheers
and thanks again, my faith is slowing returning.

Post by **billofdurham** » 01 Dec 2010, 11:43

The central locking is usually worked through the alarm system on the 960.

Do you have a gadget like this on the windscreen pillar?

: Alarm status panel.jpg (12.12 KiB) Viewed 1323 times

I don't know where you would find a wiring diagram for an after-market immobiliser. Possibly the manufacturer could help or, as said in a previous post, the wires probably aren't too well hidden so you should be able to start at the control box and work back to find them. Really the only wire you need to worry about disconnecting is the power feed. With this out of action the rest of the system dies.

Bill.

Kappy5003 · Post by **Kappy5003** » 01 Dec 2010, 22:07

Hi Bill
Nothing that on the dash.

I guiess I could trace the current wiring to a diagram of the vehicle's wiring.

After all the control box immobiliser part would be kooked up to the ignition somehow and most of the other wiring would be hook up to the central locking I imagine.

Post by **billofdurham** » 04 Dec 2010, 12:21

That is how I look at it. Also, as I have said before, most DIYers don't hide the wires.

Bill.

Kappy5003 · Post by **Kappy5003** » 04 Dec 2010, 20:12

HI Bill
Latest update,

Consistant voltage holding and out of the blue my immobiliser and remote central locking has returned..

However now that consistant voltage has been reinstated my annoying hotwire code has returned 3.2.2
I have been following the instructions on the PDF on MAf signal resistance.

Untill this morning I have struggled to satisfactory readings.

1st checked resistance betwen No 4 and ground----suggests very high or infinite resistance, what is consider high, have got fluctuating reading as high as around 1900, 1800 1700 ish.

When I checked voltage between No 4 and positive I received battery readings with ignition on & off. This was only after I cleaned all connections at ECU prior to his nothing.
When I checked between No 4 and #25 on ECU what sort of reading should I get and is this in ohms.

I cleared the only code 3.2.2 went for short run seems ok for a while then revs fluctuate mainly at idle up to about 1000rpm to almost stall..

If my voltage is ok to hot wire could the problem be the MAF sensor or could it be the ECU?

I don't have access to Measuring unit 999-3070 that is suggested in code test, is there ways to test ECU, to obtain new ECU and MAF can be expensive exercise that may not solve problem..

Hope I have made some sense here.
Cheers
Wayne

Post by **billofdurham** » 05 Dec 2010, 12:53

3-2-2 is set when the burn off current for the hot wire drops below 2.5 volts. This voltage is only applied when the ignition is switched off to clean the hot wire and usually indicates a break in the signal lead, the signal lead is shorted to earth (ground) or there is contact resistance in the unit connectors. It is, therefore, very hard to read the exact current.

Which setting do you have the ohmmeter on? I always start off on the highest setting and work down. Infinite resistance would show as 1 on the ohmmeter. Very high resistance would be very close to the setting the ohmmeter is on. If you have it set at 2,000 ohms, for example, 1,900 is very high.

Checking between #4 and ECU #25 should be on ohms as you are checking the integrity of the wire for a possible short circuit.

You have probably done this but I need to ask. Have you checked and cleaned the connectors at the MAF? Oxidation in the connector will cause mayhem.

Bill.

Kappy5003 · Post by **Kappy5003** » 06 Dec 2010, 18:48

Thanks for you patience Bill,
My Ohm setting is set at 2000 the readings I get very from 1900ish 1st check then very after that usually lower but still around 1500.On each test I get an initial reading of say 1900 that immediately goes to 1. Is that indicating an infinite reading?

Checking between #4 and ECU #25 should be on ohms as you are checking the integrity of the wire for a possible short circuit.

What sort of reading should I get here if circuit is ok from memory I think all I got was 1.

I will re visit the MAF connections and give them a good clean, after all untill I actually gave the connections at the ECU a good clean I wasn't getting any satisfactory readings.

Cheers
Wayne

94 960 ---Ignition Problem

Re: 94 960 ---Ignition Problem