2001 V70 T5 Engine compatibility

[wedgeweasel]

Well, today was the exploratory day as I had to fix wifes Camry, Power window on drivers side not working - traced it to broken wires in the harness where it passes through the door hinges - another problem of living in Canada, wires don't like to bend that much when it gets cold! Back to the Volvo - removed intercooler tube over the top of the engine and it was dripping with oil inside - good thing right? Then removed the 5 coil overs and found 3 of the 5 had quite a bit of oil in them - think that might be from sloppy filling of oil over the last little while. Removed plugs and checked compressions from the timing belt side first: 160, 180, 195, 170 and 165. Car has 189k miles. Will remove the turbo tomorrow and take pictures as I go along, although I am working outside, the quality might not be that great.

[RaymanSean]

The oil in the plug wells is likely due to a bad valve cover gasket. The oil in the turbo pipe is a good of a sign as you could expect. The compression test looks good in terms of the numbers but the variation seems to be a little large. By any chance were the plugs with oil cylinders 2, 3, and 4? With 3 having the most? The reason I ask is that one would expect about 10% variation in the compression test results but have on the order of 15-20% variation in the numbers. The results can be altered is any of the oil were to have made it into the cylinders with the ones with the most oil having a higher compression than the others.

[jimmy57]

T5 has the 8.5:1 compression ratio and the numbers you posted are not out of range. The test also should be done on engine that was at operating temp when you started taking plugs out and did test. Also the throttle has to be blocked open to not make it air starved during the cranking for readings.
Oil light on at idle has a pretty high likelihood of failed orings inside oil pan and not necessrily an indication of loose clearances or bad pump.
Crankcase vent system problems like stopped up vapor/oil separator box on block can cause the smoking when turbo is fine.
Do the plugs show signs of the oil being burned? Does the smoking stop if you pull dipstick out with it idling (relieves crankcase pressure from block vent system and will stop oil being pushed through the labyrinth seal on exhaust side of turbo).

[wedgeweasel]

Thanks again Raymansean & Jimmy57. Weather (and work!!) have suspended my activities for the last couple of days... I have got as far as removing the heat shield over the turbo and removed the top engine mount to get more access to the area behind the engine. My next job is to raise the car up on axle stands and crawl underneath to see if there is any better acess to the turbo from underneath. I still have been ubable to find a thread online that explains how to remove the turbo. I removed the 3 bolts on the exhaust side of the unit and the pipe to the back of the car is no longer attached but everything else still is! Can anybody give me a quick synopsis of what needs to be removed and from what side (top or bottom)? - Is there a site somewhere that covers this or a manual that I can get? I am planning on removing the turbo, rebuilding/replacing the unit, removing the oil pan, replacing pick-up oil seals, checking pump for crap in it or the strainer, changing the cam cover gasket, plugs and oil change. Thanks for all the help so far, it is greatly appreciated.... not as much as a heated garage, but still greatly appreciated! Mark.