Oil Pan Job... How bad?

Post by **JDS60R** » 17 Sep 2010, 15:18

Backwards. - Glove out shows pressure in the crankcase= bad. Glove dead or in is good.

Flametrap is part of what would be called a PCV system on other cars. It has a collection chamber that accumulates sludge when low quality oil or extra long change intervals are used.

I think ther is a write up for the turbo return line both here and on www.Volvospeed.com

You need some wobble tools and universal joints but basically you unbolt it from the turbo and pull it out of the engine. Get everything surgically clean and reinstall with new gaskets. IPD probably has the parts and an installation guide.

Some cars have the flametrap in the intake tube so you should clean that first and see if the pressure goes away. If it does leave the collection chamber alone. You will have to fix the turbo oil return line.

pwhisler · Post by **pwhisler** » 20 Sep 2010, 17:06

ok, sorry, i've been looking, but i can't find a write up for replacing the gaskets on the turbo return line.

also i couldn't find how to replace the flametrap, or even where it is located(near the air intake, maf?), but I did find some posts that said it is better to remove the flame trap altogether and not replace it. is that true for my 2002 s40?

any help with finding the other links or vaidis directions would be great as well, thanks!

Skottynan · Post by **Skottynan** » 21 Sep 2010, 18:21

I did the gasket replacement a week ago and it was easy peazy. Jack the car up, remove the retainer holding the oil lines together, remove the two torx bolts holding the turbo drain pipe, remove old gasket and o-ring, apply new gasket and o-ring, reattach pipe, tighten bolts, put back the retainer, and presto your done. 15 minutes...

Skottynan · Post by **Skottynan** » 21 Sep 2010, 20:01

Also, at least for 850 models, I found that when replacing my oil pan I had to borrow a cherry picker to lift the engine block a couple inches after taking the engine mount bolts out for clearance on removal and install. I also had to use a rotary saw connected to an air compressor to hack off a hook that was attached to the frame and was in the way of removing the oil pan. No big deal as the hook was probably used for transportion on a big rig to tie it down when it was originally sent to the dealer new. It's never been used since and I've had the car towed more than once in the last few years. Also the oil lines are in the way and have to be pushed aside but not removed. All in all it's not a tough job as long as you have something that can lift the engine a bit. Good luck

pwhisler · Post by **pwhisler** » 25 Sep 2010, 12:33

ok, 15 minutes sounds encouraging, if i get it done i'll try to post pics.

how about the flametrap? do i remove that and not replace it? and what does it look like and where is it located?

thanks

pwhisler · Post by **pwhisler** » 06 Oct 2010, 17:00

i'll try to change those oil return line gaskets this weekend, any word on the flame trap? I just take it out?

pwhisler · Post by **pwhisler** » 09 Oct 2010, 17:36

ok, so it isn't so easy peazy, 15 minutes for me. after a little while of looking, i think i found the correct bolts to take out, but i can't even loosen them. i tried spraying with wd-40 as well. were they really tight for you and how did you get them off?

retainer bolt

hex bolts

plus, they are really hard to get to...

thanks, also, any word on that flame trap?

pwhisler · Post by **pwhisler** » 18 Oct 2010, 16:54

ok, so i tried again this weekend, and I got the retainer bolt off after i removed the cross bar thingy, but I still couldn't remove those two hex bolts. I could reach one, but I was just stripping it, and the other one I couldn't get to.

I called a local volvo shop, and they said the repair would be $125 plus tax, just to take out those two bolts and that pipe seems really expensive, what do you guys think? I'd really like to be able to do it myself and save that much money.

pwhisler · Post by **pwhisler** » 20 Dec 2010, 15:10

ok, finally got it, i think. so i found out i was using the wrong size torx after i bought a torx set from ipd, but you can get it from a local hardware store. i didn't have the official volvo chemical gasket, so i had to use the one i had laying around. then i had a terrible time tryhing to get the torx screws back in, and i dropped them and lost them both! so i had to get some replacement ones at the hardware store. then i finally got those in and after driving it around for a few days, looked underneath and there wasn't oil everywhere!

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 20 Dec 2010, 15:24

Make sure to keep checking up on it. I've only heard bad things from people who use anything other than the OEM sealant. Hopefully you get lucky, but be prepared for the worst. I don't know what fancy Swedish hocus-pocus they put in the OEM stuff, but it definitely works!

Oil Pan Job... How bad?

Re: Oil Pan Job... How bad?