96 850 Turbo Wagon Mechanic's Challenge

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 04 Jan 2011, 07:35

7 is hotter (Bosch's scale is the opposite of NGKs). The combustion chamber compression is low in these motors, but you need to take the turbo into consideration too. I think I'd run a Bosch 6 at the highest, the Champion plug that you mentioned is equivilant to a Bosch 5 so a 7 might be fine for an NA but a LPT (light pressure turbo) I'd run a Bosch 6.

FlipIt · Post by **FlipIt** » 04 Jan 2011, 14:01

I need some help with the lower radiator hose routing. The photo below shows how I now have it but I'm concerned about the camshaft position sensor connector support bracket (green arrow) pressing against the hose (red arrow). Do I have the bracket mounted to the correct motor stabilizer bolt?

: LRadHose.jpg (82.76 KiB) Viewed 1783 times

It seems like the wiring harness has a support to keep the hose in position (blue arrow). I think if I loosen the hose clamps at each end I can rotate the hose to make it more to the left in the photo.

Post by **precopster** » 04 Jan 2011, 14:47

The bracket you have pointed out is the cam sensor/crank sensor connector holding post (for want of a better name) You seem to be missing the other section to this assembly as I can see your cam sensor connector is lying loose. Yours is bent or incorrectly installed as it is not even close ro rhe radiator hose in my car. Straighten it or refit it. (refer photo below)

The lower hose sits inside three open ended plastic clips as in the photo. Vadis could not help me here with a part #. (can anyone help here?)

I've attached a parts breakdown from Vadis for the cam sensor/crank sensor connector holders.
You may have the rest of this assembly lying around in the wagon and just don't recognise them.

Hope this helps. Keep us posted

FlipIt · Post by **FlipIt** » 04 Jan 2011, 15:40

You're a big help Mike! I learned a lot from the photos you posted. Actually, the white connector goes to the crank sensor (the loose one) and the yellow connector goes to the cam sensor. And you're right, the bracket is bent down from its correct position. I noticed from your photos that I'm missing the plastic radiator hose clamps that guide the wiring. I also noticed that I have a transmission to engine bolt missing. I believe it is in the box of parts. The rest of the support bracket is not in the box.

FlipIt · Post by **FlipIt** » 04 Jan 2011, 17:21

The poor quality photo below is another attempt to identify what I now think is the camshaft timing mark (green arrow).

: TimeMark.jpg (26.77 KiB) Viewed 1672 times

When the crankshaft locking tool is inserted and the crankshaft rotated counter-clockwise to its limit the mark on the balancer hub aligns with the mark on the oil pump. There is another raised area on the balancer hub (blue arrow) that is about 4 times as wide as the timing mark. The yellow arrow identifies a notch on the perimeter of the balancer that may be associated with the notch and 10 degree marks on the plastic cover.

: Sprkts.jpg (61.56 KiB) Viewed 1672 times

FlipIt · Post by **FlipIt** » 04 Jan 2011, 17:34

It appears that something in the throttle linkage is bent causing the binding.

: LnkRub.jpg (52.64 KiB) Viewed 1670 times

The single red arrow marks where the bracket rubs against the linkage. As the throttle opens more the link rises and the side of the link rubs against the bracket. This engine has endured rough treatment since there are several bent brackets.

FlipIt · Post by **FlipIt** » 04 Jan 2011, 18:12

I purchased Autolite AP3923 platinum electrode plugs because they were available at the first place I went and fairly inexpensive. I changed the pregap from .045 to .028 inches, applied antiseize to the threads and then installed them at 18 ft-lbs. I removed most of the arc deposits from the inside of the distributor cap and installed it. I measured the resistance of the coil to cap wire and then installed it leaving the plug wires connected to the distributor but not to the plugs. I connected the electrical power connector to the coil and proceeded to test for spark at the plugs. I installed an inexpensive inline spark tester between plug #1 and it's wire and cranked the engine. The light stayed unlit indicating no spark. Thinking the never before used inline spark tester might be defective I hooked up my old strobe light and tested the #5 wire. Once again there was no indication of a spark. I suppose there is a possibility that the ECU knows that the MAF sensor, IAC valve and fuel pump are not functional and is not initiating the spark but I doubt it. I remember getting stranded out of town when my 87 Volvo 740 ignition module went bad. I suspect the DI Power Stage that drives the coil may be bad in my 850. Tomorrow I'll install Fuse 2 that I removed to disable the fuel pump but according to the wiring diagram should have no affect on the ignition. I'll also connect the MAF sensor and the IAC valve electrical connectors but not the air tubes and test again for spark. If there's still no spark I'll start troubleshooting with a meter and wiring diagram.

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 04 Jan 2011, 18:46

When you cranked the motor did you notice the tacho moving appropriately or aroun 300RPM? I know that if the ECU doesnt get a signal from the crank sensor, it wont work the injectors. Not 100% sure if this affects ignition too however. Were you able to verify that the HT coil was receiving power?

Post by **precopster** » 04 Jan 2011, 19:08

I can't even begin to imagine how difficult it would be to time an engine with the accessory belt tensioner & accessory belt in place.

Pull the tensioner around with a box spanner in the square hole (plumbing type) and insert a nail into the front hole when it lines up with rear hole. Then remove the two 12mm bolts.

I've attached a belt routing diagram in case you get stuck.

Post by **precopster** » 04 Jan 2011, 19:23

These motors will not start without the large IAC tube connected. Not sure about the connector, though.

96 850 Turbo Wagon Mechanic's Challenge

Re: 96 850 Turbo Wagon Mechanic's Challenge