96 850 Turbo Wagon Mechanic's Challenge

[FlipIt]

I followed the wires from the unknown connector and it led me to the item identified below.

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I suspect this is the transmission speed sensor. I don't know why the wire colors don't match the wiring diagram which shows yel/wht and yel/brn but my wires are yel/vio and grn/yel.

[Ozark Lee]

That is the RPM sensor, not the Vehicle Speed Sensor. The VSS on the later models, '96 and on, is derived from the ABS module based on inputs from the wheel sensors.

...Lee

[FlipIt]

Still no spark. The eBay replacement ignition module that I received yesterday also has a blown output. I bought a new (never used) one on eBay this afternoon for $35 with free shipping. I've finished the electrical rework in the engine compartment and the intake system is temporarily installed in preparation for an engine start attempt. I'll work on installing the cat and muffler heat shields while I await another ignition module.

[FlipIt]

I purchased a copy of VADIS on eBay earlier in the week. The DVD arrived yesterday and I installed it on my computer. It will greatly assist me in identifying parts in the box, missing parts and assembling my engine. I especially appreciate the Volvo part numbers for each part so I can order what I need online. I determined via VADIS that my original guess for the heat shields in the box was correct - they are to be attached to the exhaust manifold and in front of the firewall. It looks fairly complicated and I won't bother with it until I get the engine running.

Today I determined the source of my ATF leak. It is marked with the red arrow in the photo below.

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I thought it was possible just due to a loose bolt so I attempted to tighten the bolt identified with the yellow arrow. It was immediately appararent that the threads were stripped due to already having been overtightened. I've noticed while working on this engine that many of the bolts were tightened excessively for use on cast aluminum. I removed the bolt and noted it was rather short and tapered with worn threads near the head. I tried using a washer to avoid the worn threads but because of the short length there were not enough threads to hold. I found a longer M6-1.0 bolt and inserted it and tightened to a reasonable torque. The leak did not stop. There is insufficient room on the back of the casting to add a normal nut. I will either have to tap the hole to M7-1.0 or grind off a small enough portion of the casting for a nut. I don't see a gasket listed on VADIS to fit between the cover and the casting. It may just be sealed with RTF. I don't want to drain the ATF to fix the leak until after I get the engine running and test the transmission for functionality.

[FlipIt]

Does anyone recognize this part and know if it fits on a 96 turbo wagon? The seller thinks it came off a 95 turbo but doesn't know the specific location. It's listed as an engine cover guard on eBay.

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I couldn't find anything in VADIS for my vehicle that looks like it but the photo is not very good for revealing the actual shape of the part. I'm trying to acquire all of the missing pieces for my wagon. Any help is appreciated!

[jblackburn]

That's the guard that goes up under the belly of the car to protect the radiator and AC components, etc from the road. I'd put it back in place - it helps with airflow and to protect those things. It's held in place by a screw at either side of the frame.

I can tell you it's NOT the one from a -70 series, so yes, it should fit

[FlipIt]

I asked the seller the dimensions of the item and he responded approximately 8x3 inches. I finally realized it is the upper section of the timing case cover, PN 9146937. I know I need the front air guide, PN 6808693 and the protective casing, PN 9135445.

I also noticed that the torque rod needs replacement.

[jblackburn]

Whoops. They do look a bit similar without a scale to go by

I also noticed that the torque rod needs replacement.

My advice would be to stay the OEM route. While the 2-piece polyurethane bushing is tempting in that it's easy to install, it transmits vibrations like crazy and makes the 5-cylinder feel like a bus engine. You'll have to saw out the old bushing, then freeze overnight and lube up the new bushing with soapy dish water to get it to go in easily.

[wheelsup]

I read thru your first post and the last page. From what I gather you are still trying to get it running. IMO, after buying one of these cars to possibly flip, there is much more money in them by parting them out. Plus it's a lot more fun. I also think you overpaid for the car. I bought a 95 w/ 155k on it for $250 w/ a bad motor. Everything else was decent, interior was even better than yours. Parts off of it are worth in the $1,500 range.

You can make money flipping cars but the higher margins are in the 2000 and up range. After reading about all the issues you are having like stripped bolts etc. I would worry about the rest of the car. Buying a vintage that like (15 years old) is best suited to be used as a parts car or to keep your car running (what I ended up doing with most of the parts, kept as spares). I pulled a 6 month valero (volvo) radiator off my parts car that was put on about 8 months later due to my original one going. That right there paid for the car...

[FlipIt]

. . . My advice would be to stay the OEM route. While the 2-piece polyurethane bushing is tempting in that it's easy to install, it transmits vibrations like crazy and makes the 5-cylinder feel like a bus engine. You'll have to saw out the old bushing, then freeze overnight and lube up the new bushing with soapy dish water to get it to go in easily.

Since both the front and rear rubber inserts are shot I was thinking about purchasing the entire assembly. Thanks for the advice about avoiding polyurethane. Its great for stiffening up an anti-sway bar but I agree its a poor choice for vibration absorption.