96 850 Turbo Wagon Mechanic's Challenge

[FlipIt]

I read thru your first post and the last page. From what I gather you are still trying to get it running. IMO, after buying one of these cars to possibly flip, there is much more money in them by parting them out. Plus it's a lot more fun. I also think you overpaid for the car. I bought a 95 w/ 155k on it for $250 w/ a bad motor. Everything else was decent, interior was even better than yours. Parts off of it are worth in the $1,500 range. . .

I'm mainly interested in having a good time solving technical auto related problems. I just need to make a little money so my wife doesn't complain that my hobby is too expensive. I would rather fix something than just take it apart. I only spend two hours a day actually working on the vehicle.

You're correct that I still don't have the engine running. Today I received and installed a third ignition module/coil and it still appears that I have no spark at the plugs. I assumed that since the output resistance of the module measured almost infinity when the coil primary was disconnected that the module driver output was blown. It is very unlikely that all three module outputs are blown. There is no voltage across the primary of the coil when the ignition switch is in Run. For every other ignition coil I am familiar with there is normally a voltage across the primary. The spark occurs when the voltage is interrupted causing the electromagnetic field to collapse. Maybe this device works a different way.

My next task is to confirm with my Explorer Sport that my inexpensive inline ignition tester and my 40 year old timing light work. Then I'll fiddle with the wiring harness to module connector to see if I can get voltage on the coil primary. I know there is voltage on the wiring harness connector pins but I don't know if they are making contact with the module connector pins.

[Marcobrick]

does your car have an ignition main circuits relay? Not all 850 models/years do.

[FlipIt]

I don't have a 96 850 wiring diagram but according to the 95 850 wiring diagram there is only an overload relay in series between the ignition switch and the ignition module. When the ignition is in Run I have voltage at the connector to the ignition module. On my 2000 Explorer Sport the anti-theft module (PATS) disables the fuel injectors but not the spark when an incorrect ignition key is inserted. The key for my 850 does not appear to have a microchip so I doubt that anti-theft is an issue. I have not found anything in the owner's manual regarding the flashing "Theft" on the instrument panel.

[Ozark Lee]

The anti theft on 850s simply interrupts the starter circuit so that the car won't crank, it doesn't alter the ignition at all.

...Lee

[FlipIt]

After properly connecting the fuel system main relay I have spark and the engine starts and runs on starting fluid sprayed into the intake manifold. The fuel in the tank smells like lacquer and is not combustible. I disconnected the fuel supply from the fuel rail and attached a length of flexible fuel hose. I'm using the fuel pump to remove the existing nine gallons from the tank by cycling the ignition switch from Off to Run. I have three gallons to go.

[jblackburn]

I'm sure you've got it by now, but you could just remove the fuel pump relay (103) and stick a paperclip between pins 15 and 87, and the pump will run continuously.

[Ozark Lee]

This is sounding very much like the Porsche 944 that I drug home from Phoenix for my daughter. It took a couple of weeks of work and draining the 5 year old (Baking in the Phoenix Sun) gasoline out of it but it did start and run - it is a great feeling.

Once you get the old gas out of it, as you know, add a fuel system cleaner like Techron or Seafoam to the tank to try to clean up the injectors. On the Porsche they were horribly clogged so I pulled them out and basically soaked them in Gumout but that took all new seal kits and pintle caps. In the case of the Porsche it had a massive oil leak on the cam tower gasket so the intake manifold and injectors had to come off anyway and it wasn't that big of deal.

...Lee

[FlipIt]

I'm sure you've got it by now, but you could just remove the fuel pump relay (103) and stick a paperclip between pins 15 and 87, and the pump will run continuously.

Thanks for the information! My wiring diagram does not list relay pin numbers - only connecting wire colors. As you know, the color of the wires under the relays are not easily determined. The jumper saved a lot of time and avoided another 100 cycles of the ignition switch. I ran the pump until the tank was dry and then replaced the fuel filter. It was difficult to remove. I suspect it has been in place for many years. Ford specifies changing the fuel filter every 30,000 miles on my Explorer and I agree after having cut an old one open.

[FlipIt]

. . . Once you get the old gas out of it, as you know, add a fuel system cleaner like Techron or Seafoam to the tank to try to clean up the injectors. On the Porsche they were horribly clogged so I pulled them out and basically soaked them in Gumout but that took all new seal kits and pintle caps. In the case of the Porsche it had a massive oil leak on the cam tower gasket so the intake manifold and injectors had to come off anyway and it wasn't that big of deal....Lee

I'm a little concerned about the fuel pressure. There's a lot more now than before I drained the tank and replaced the fuel filter. I can't easily test it with my fuel pressure gauge because the Schrader valve points toward the throttle linkage and is close to it. I need a right angle fitting. The engine starts immediately on starting fluid but won't continue running. I added a bottle of Techron (the only kind of fuel injector cleaner I ever use) to the two gallons of new fuel in the tank. I only had time to start the engine twice. Hopefully some of the Techron made its way to the injectors. I haven't measured the supply voltage to the injectors yet. They could be clogged or not firing. I also could have a nonfunctional IAC valve. Tommorrow I'll try to start a few times while adjusting the throttle opening and measure the injector supply voltage. If I don't have any luck I'll try to test the fuel pressure regulator. I don't want to pull the fuel rail unless I have to because of the problems you mentioned. I'll probably buy a noid light first.

[FlipIt]

I wished that I had made faster progress on this turbo wagon because there is an 83 Porsche 928S for sale locally for $2,500. It would be a fun project but my wife is insistant about not having more than three vehicles at one time.