WHen you remove that front timing belt cover, the two cam gears are grey metal and have the notch that lines up with the notch on plastic top cover for T belt.
Each gear has three bolts. The Intake cam gear on that engine is bolted directly to the cam and it has three bolts through elongated holes in gear near center of gear. The Exhaust cam gear has the cvvt hub and the gear has three elongated holes just under the toothed rim of gear where the bolts hold the gear to the cvvt hub. The intake gear is not keyed or splined to the cam and the gear on cvvt hub is not keyed or spline to the hub. If the bolts for gears are loosened the cams can move relative to gears.
Code P0014
-
boosted5cyl
- Posts: 1100
- Joined: 29 January 2010
- Year and Model: '98 V70 T5, '99 S80
- Location: St. Paul, MN
- Been thanked: 1 time
Jimmy57 is a lot more knoledgeable than I am, so I should revise what I've posted. It makes sense that the bolts dont HAVE to be on the right, but ive never seen them in the middle or more leftward. Im sure jimmy57 has seen a lot more of these so I bow to his superior knowledge. The cams have to be locked at the rear when you rotate the center of the VVT hub clockwise to set it. You can't turn it "willy nilly" or it will turn the camshaft too.
If the CEL has been on since your got the car back, then its "probably" the setting of the VVT. If the CEL light is a recent thing then its probably something else.
If the CEL has been on since your got the car back, then its "probably" the setting of the VVT. If the CEL light is a recent thing then its probably something else.
'04 XC90 2.5T AWD (Angus) 134K.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
Okay so i pulled of the CVVT solenoid and cleaned it and put 12 volts to the valve made it go in and out.
But is there a adjustment to the solenoid it does not seem like it? There are 4 bolts that hold it down so is there an adjustment setting...
Thank you guys!
But is there a adjustment to the solenoid it does not seem like it? There are 4 bolts that hold it down so is there an adjustment setting...
Thank you guys!
-
JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
- Been thanked: 16 times
I don't know, I don't touch timing myself but if this is a cam code and P016 IS so it's probably related, you really could be one tooth off.
It will run actually very well and hardly be noticable,
and If this is the case, it can run up to or over 100 miles before the (cleared) code comes back
It will run actually very well and hardly be noticable,
and If this is the case, it can run up to or over 100 miles before the (cleared) code comes back
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
-
boosted5cyl
- Posts: 1100
- Joined: 29 January 2010
- Year and Model: '98 V70 T5, '99 S80
- Location: St. Paul, MN
- Been thanked: 1 time
There's no adjustment that I'm aware of on the solenoid. Remove, clean, replace (with new gasket). Thats it. Again, clean oil of correct viscosity is important. If the code comes back, get the freeze frame data too.
'04 XC90 2.5T AWD (Angus) 134K.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
Okay so I went for a drive (about 5 miles) at that damn check engine light came on! Got home plugged in and got "P0014" again.
So does anybody have a sure fire way of checking the timing belt ? My solenoid looks new screen in the gasket was clean.
So I'm thinking I need to start at the beginning, Timing, Oil, any thoughts...
Thanx
So does anybody have a sure fire way of checking the timing belt ? My solenoid looks new screen in the gasket was clean.
So I'm thinking I need to start at the beginning, Timing, Oil, any thoughts...
Thanx
-
boosted5cyl
- Posts: 1100
- Joined: 29 January 2010
- Year and Model: '98 V70 T5, '99 S80
- Location: St. Paul, MN
- Been thanked: 1 time
Well, you'll need to go though the whole process of checking the timing...
The end goal is that all the notches should line up and the VVT unit (inner part of the cam pulley) will be turned fully clockwise to its limit position. Therefore the three small bolts on the pulley should be in their rightmost position. Thats it! I messed mine up at first when I rebuilt the top end of my T6. I corrected it two nights (100miles) ago with the belt still on, codes are now gone and it runs like a champ. I'm not a mechanic by trade so the info below is E&OE, at your own risk with no warranty implied.
Basically, consider it to be a three stage process:
Stage 1
Forget the VADIS proceedure for now and whatever you have tried so far
Stage 2
Have the crank locked in position on its mark. Drop a 6" 3/8 extenstion into the hole near the starter, turn motor counter clockwise by hand until it hits the stop.
Cams should locked in position, in line with seam in head.
Ensure all all notches are lined up on the cam pulleys with the timing belt cover.
Timing belt sould be on.
Inner bolt on cam pulley that fixes the unit onto the camshaft should be torqued down (Circa 88Ft Lbs, please verify).
The three bolts for the cam gear to VVT unit should be loose
VVT unit should be turned fully counter clockwise (bolts will be on the left of the holes in the toothed pulley when this is done).
If you cant achieve stage 2, ie the VVT unit will not move far enough counterclockwise for the three bolts to be at their leftmost limit, then the center bolt that attaches the unit to the cam needs to be loosened as their relative positions are incorrect.
Stage 3
Keep cams locked, pulleys at marks amd crank locked\at mark.
Fit the outer "cap" onto the VVT unit (T60 torx), no need to torque it yet.
Rotate the VVT unit clockwise using the cap with a T60 torx until it hits its limit.
Lock the three outer pulley bolts.
Torque the VVT cap (25 lb/ft I think, please verify).
You should now be in a position where all marks line up and the three pulley bolts on the VVT unit are on rightmost part of the holes in the toothed gear.
** Have a beer **
The end goal is that all the notches should line up and the VVT unit (inner part of the cam pulley) will be turned fully clockwise to its limit position. Therefore the three small bolts on the pulley should be in their rightmost position. Thats it! I messed mine up at first when I rebuilt the top end of my T6. I corrected it two nights (100miles) ago with the belt still on, codes are now gone and it runs like a champ. I'm not a mechanic by trade so the info below is E&OE, at your own risk with no warranty implied.
Basically, consider it to be a three stage process:
Stage 1
Forget the VADIS proceedure for now and whatever you have tried so far
Stage 2
Have the crank locked in position on its mark. Drop a 6" 3/8 extenstion into the hole near the starter, turn motor counter clockwise by hand until it hits the stop.
Cams should locked in position, in line with seam in head.
Ensure all all notches are lined up on the cam pulleys with the timing belt cover.
Timing belt sould be on.
Inner bolt on cam pulley that fixes the unit onto the camshaft should be torqued down (Circa 88Ft Lbs, please verify).
The three bolts for the cam gear to VVT unit should be loose
VVT unit should be turned fully counter clockwise (bolts will be on the left of the holes in the toothed pulley when this is done).
If you cant achieve stage 2, ie the VVT unit will not move far enough counterclockwise for the three bolts to be at their leftmost limit, then the center bolt that attaches the unit to the cam needs to be loosened as their relative positions are incorrect.
Stage 3
Keep cams locked, pulleys at marks amd crank locked\at mark.
Fit the outer "cap" onto the VVT unit (T60 torx), no need to torque it yet.
Rotate the VVT unit clockwise using the cap with a T60 torx until it hits its limit.
Lock the three outer pulley bolts.
Torque the VVT cap (25 lb/ft I think, please verify).
You should now be in a position where all marks line up and the three pulley bolts on the VVT unit are on rightmost part of the holes in the toothed gear.
** Have a beer **
'04 XC90 2.5T AWD (Angus) 134K.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
-
jimmy57
- Posts: 6694
- Joined: 12 November 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
- Location: Ponder Texas
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 320 times
To see if the CVVT hub is fitted correctly as a diagnostic step before you do any more:
Remove the engine torque bushing bracket on top of driver's side of engine. Remove the lower aluminum piece also as it is over the cam position sensor. Remove the round cover with the electrical sensor (CPS) and then remove the one bolt from end of cam and and pull off the CPS sensor profile wheel.
Use a 90 degree pick or a small nail bent 90 degrees 1/2 inch from the point of nail. Pierce the round black seal you will find on rear of intake cam. Now you have view of both camshaft ends.
Remove timing belt cover. Remove front tire on RH side. Remove the one nut on rear edge of the plastic fender liner at bottom. Fold up fender liner and snap a report clip on the edge or small vise grips to keep it folded over out of your path to crankshaft nut. Use a 32 mm (I think a 1 1/4") socket extension and breaker bar and turn engine over until the crank mark align with the pointing mark on oil pump cover down behind the lower timing belt gear. The back edge of the serpentine belt pulley has a mark or if you look closely you will see a notch on the back of the high point of two of the teeth on crank gear, the low point between those notches on the gear is the oil pump cover mark target. Turn the crankshaft until the marks are aligned. ONLY GO CLOCKWISE! GO EASILY TO FINISH GETTING THE MARKS ALIGNED AND DO NOT ROATATE BACKWARDS. If you go too far go one more round. For this check it does not matter if the cam marks align on the cam gears with the notches in top cover. WHen the crank is in that position now look at the rear of the cams. The slots in back of cam should be horizontal given the engine is laid back a bit, i.e., the two marks should be level plane with the seam of two parts of cylinder head. The head splits in the middle of the cam sensor and black plug holes. The slots ground in cams at rear are offset and one will be offset up while the other is offset down but those slots should be parallel to each other. If the slots are askew then it is out of time. IF the slots are aligned then you probably have a sticking/binding/stuck CVVT hub. You have checked the solenoid and say it is clean but applying power and ground to the two terminals and checking to make sure it clicks might be advisable to assure that is not the problem. The power and ground can be applied either way with the connector disconnected, it does not matter then.
IT DOES MATTER if you are setting it up from scratch.
The cam marks for the timing check do not matter as the slots will be be parallel ever one crank turn/1/2 cam turn and can be checked either revolution.
I have used this as the test for out of time many many times.
If you doubt yourself on your ability to visually check the slots then use a steel 6 inch metal machinist's rule (the 6 inch steel ruler) as your gauge and hold it on back of head at the seam and see if the slots are level aligned.
Remove the engine torque bushing bracket on top of driver's side of engine. Remove the lower aluminum piece also as it is over the cam position sensor. Remove the round cover with the electrical sensor (CPS) and then remove the one bolt from end of cam and and pull off the CPS sensor profile wheel.
Use a 90 degree pick or a small nail bent 90 degrees 1/2 inch from the point of nail. Pierce the round black seal you will find on rear of intake cam. Now you have view of both camshaft ends.
Remove timing belt cover. Remove front tire on RH side. Remove the one nut on rear edge of the plastic fender liner at bottom. Fold up fender liner and snap a report clip on the edge or small vise grips to keep it folded over out of your path to crankshaft nut. Use a 32 mm (I think a 1 1/4") socket extension and breaker bar and turn engine over until the crank mark align with the pointing mark on oil pump cover down behind the lower timing belt gear. The back edge of the serpentine belt pulley has a mark or if you look closely you will see a notch on the back of the high point of two of the teeth on crank gear, the low point between those notches on the gear is the oil pump cover mark target. Turn the crankshaft until the marks are aligned. ONLY GO CLOCKWISE! GO EASILY TO FINISH GETTING THE MARKS ALIGNED AND DO NOT ROATATE BACKWARDS. If you go too far go one more round. For this check it does not matter if the cam marks align on the cam gears with the notches in top cover. WHen the crank is in that position now look at the rear of the cams. The slots in back of cam should be horizontal given the engine is laid back a bit, i.e., the two marks should be level plane with the seam of two parts of cylinder head. The head splits in the middle of the cam sensor and black plug holes. The slots ground in cams at rear are offset and one will be offset up while the other is offset down but those slots should be parallel to each other. If the slots are askew then it is out of time. IF the slots are aligned then you probably have a sticking/binding/stuck CVVT hub. You have checked the solenoid and say it is clean but applying power and ground to the two terminals and checking to make sure it clicks might be advisable to assure that is not the problem. The power and ground can be applied either way with the connector disconnected, it does not matter then.
IT DOES MATTER if you are setting it up from scratch.
The cam marks for the timing check do not matter as the slots will be be parallel ever one crank turn/1/2 cam turn and can be checked either revolution.
I have used this as the test for out of time many many times.
If you doubt yourself on your ability to visually check the slots then use a steel 6 inch metal machinist's rule (the 6 inch steel ruler) as your gauge and hold it on back of head at the seam and see if the slots are level aligned.
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post