96 850 Turbo Wagon Mechanic's Challenge

[FlipIt]

Thank you boosted5cyl and precopster for the information - especially the photos! When I crawled under the vehicle to inspect I saw that there is a 1/4 inch gap between the head and the coolant tube flange. There is no gasket nor bolts! I checked the box of parts that came with the vehicle for a gasket but none was there so I ordered one from AdvanceAuto ($8) that won't be here until Wednesday. I thought about using some form-a-gasket but decided against it since it would be very time consuming to remove the coolant tube. I think I can install the gasket by sliding it upward next to the end of the exhaust manifold. I'll probably have to suspend the gasket with a string and then push it into position with something long a slender. There are bolts of various lengths in the box of parts. There are several with a thread length of about 5/8 inch. The coolant tube flange appears to be about 1/4 inch or 3/16 inch thick. If the gasket is 1/16 inch thick that leaves only 5/16 or 3/8 of thread to go into the head. VADIS doesn't tell the bolt size but the bolts look short in the drawing.

[boosted5cyl]

On the T6 the bolts M7 thread (yes 7mm), 5mm allen\hex head. I would way 15mm long. I used a magnetic pickup tool and one of those telescopic mirrors to help get it all in place. Its not hard, just a bit fidgety.

[precopster]

Just measured some water pipe bolts at 1 1/2 inches or about 32mm long (total length) They have a factory white sealant on them like water pump bolts.

Your local auto parts store should be able to provide these in an M7 thread as per boosted5cyl s comment.

I have two cylinder heads lying around from previous cars so lots of info sharing is available.

[FlipIt]

I know from trying to find the camshaft gear (sprocket) retaining bolts that I can't get M7-1.0/xx flange bolts (small head or standard head) except from the dealer. Flange bolts would be the best choice for this application. Washers are an option but will complicate the process of installation with the very limited access. I have an extra 30mm bolt that I'll try just to determine the appropriate length. I can buy the standard head and epoxy washers to them to simulate a flange head. I could see that some of the water pump mounting holes are threaded all the way thru. I'm concerned that 1 1/2 inch long bolts may bottom out in the head.

While investigating the exhaust manifold and the turbo I noticed something that concerns me. There appears to be a broken off small diameter hose on the top, forward section of the turbo. It's hard to see but looks like a vacuum port with a short (length of the port) piece of vacuum hose and clamp. There are three lines connected to the turbo control valve but I haven't been able to trace all of the other ends.

I also noticed that the EGR pipe on the exhaust manifold has been folded over on itself to seal it off. It looks like a section of the EGR pipe has been used as a coupler to splice a length of hose from the heater hose outlet to the coolant pipe. If I'm ever able to drive the wagon I'll probably get some EGR related faults.

[FlipIt]

After a little more research on VADIS and this forum I've learned a few things.

Some of the turbos have no EGR and VADIS lists a plug part number for the EGR port in the exhaust manifold.

There are two styles of turbo control valve. I have the older one with the green, blue and yellow connections identified as 17, 18, and 19 respectively on the VADIS diagram. The hose on the turbo (bypass valve?) that is broken is labeled 20 on the VADIS diagram. I suspect from forum comments that it is supposed to be connected to the boost gauge and the intake manifold. I will have to find out where the hose from the boost gauge passes thru the firewall. It may be a broken one I didn't notice next to the cruise control vacuum line that goes to the vacuum pump.

[FlipIt]

I found a good photo of a 98 S70 GLT turbo on this forum.

850Turbo.jpg (109.73 KiB) Viewed 1539 times

The red arrow identifies the port with the broken off vacuum hose with clamp. The yellow arrows identify the heater hoses that contain extensions that coil around the turbo. I'm afraid that heat from the turbo will melt the hoses in contact with it. I don't remember having the copper pipes in the photo that connect at the firewall.

[FlipIt]

VADIS lists PN 979090 flange screw for the coolant pipe flange and PN 977744 flange screw for the water pump indicating they are different lengths.

By the way, do you guys think I need to buy a protective casing (belly pan) PN 9135445 and air guide PN 6808693 for the vehicle?

[vjaneczko]

I think most of the air guides fall off over time but if you can find 'em cheap, it'll be a good idea.

[FlipIt]

I found a vacuum line that comes thru the firewall with a wiring harness located below the fuse compartment box. It breaks away from the wiring harness and then goes downward along the brake booster, past the brake booster vacuum port and continues downward out of sight. Is this possibly the vacuum line that connects to the boost gauge on the instrument cluster?

Also I found something near the turbo that was referred to as a PTC on another thread? There appears to be an electrical connection to it? Is this associated with EGR?

[FlipIt]

I layed out what I think are heat shield related parts on the breakfast table.

ShldPcs1.jpg (61.08 KiB) Viewed 1504 times

Using VADIS I was able to practice assemble the heat shields.

ShldPcs2.jpg (55.12 KiB) Viewed 1504 times

According to VADIS the bracket identified with the red arrow appears to mount to the exhaust manifold below the heat shields. However, I don't remember anything near the firewall for the aft end of the bracket to connect to. I haven't been able to find a photo of the installed bracket on the forum for reference.