1st Attempt at Tie rod Replacement Need a Sanity Check

GregM · Post by **GregM** » 08 Feb 2011, 08:12

First I wanted to thank everyone at this site. I purchased my first Volvo about a year ago and it has not been the most pleasant experience(~$5500.00 in repairs). This is my first post but I've been lurking for a while now. Just knowing that I'm not the only one with Volvo problems and that there is a place to go for support has made life Much easier. My 855 thanks you as well. She came close to ending up at the bottom of one of Minnesota's many lakes a couple of times.

I'm about to replace the right inner/outer tie rods on my 1994 855 Turbo. I did the 3:00 9:00 test with the opposite wheel on the ground and there was significant play. I had my mechanic put it on the rack and he verified that the inner was shot.

Right now I have the front end of the car jacked up(both wheels off the ground) with the steering wheel turned all the way to the left. I have the right wheel off but now there is no play. Why? Is it because of tension due to the wheel being turned?

Can I do this repair with both wheels off the ground or does the opposite wheel need to be on the ground like for the 3 and 9 test?

Also, I wouldn't even dream of doing this type of repair if it weren't for this site and especially this tutorial:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 806#p42594. This is definitely uncharted territory for me so thanks for the help!

anmartin44 · Post by **anmartin44** » 08 Feb 2011, 09:47

turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then take the keys out to lock the steering. two wheels off the ground is good. i don't know how you plan on getting the inner TR off but I used a 12 inch pipe wrench and it was super easy. I would do both sides right now if they're the same age, otherwise you're just going to have to get it aligned again when you do the other one later.

Good luck!
Andrew

Post by **vjaneczko** » 09 Feb 2011, 11:47

Once you get the inner tie rod off the car and compare the old to the new, you'll see the difference in play. When I changed mine, the old inner tie rod would droop without applying any downward force. Holding the new one before installing it, I had a hard time moving it in my hands. My thought on the wiggle/no wiggle situation is that the extra weight of the tire (et al) puts much more force on the tie rod ball joint then you can apply by hand.

+1 on doing them at the same time. It was one of the easiest jobs I've done on the car - maybe 15 or 20 minutes per side. Plus, I never did them before but that write-up you note is what 'taught me' how to do it.

It'll also help to be able to move the wheel full-left and full-right several times during the repair to make it easier to get the boots off, change the rod and get the boots back on. And regarding those boots; they can be reused if in good condition.

Post by **precopster** » 09 Feb 2011, 11:54

Remember the left thread turns in the normal direction and the right thread is a reverse thread so turn it in the opposite direction to normal for removal.

I used a large plumbers vice grip with a triangular head with an old short jack handle over the end.

GregM · Post by **GregM** » 09 Feb 2011, 17:18

precopster wrote:Remember the left thread turns in the normal direction and the right thread is a reverse thread so turn it in the opposite direction to normal for removal.

I used a large plumbers vice grip with a triangular head with an old short jack handle over the end.

Sorry I'm a bit confused now. The tutorial didn't mention the reverse thread piece. So if I'm working on the the right inner and outer tie rod I would rotate the outer tie rod clockwise to remove it?

GregM · Post by **GregM** » 09 Feb 2011, 20:29

Ok, so i successfully removed the outer tie-rod end from the hub assembly. I had soaked it with PB blaster for 3 nights in row. It only took 3 or 4 medium blows with the BFH and it popped out.

At this point I'm trying to remove the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. It will not budge. I even tried turning the "pinch" bolt "stop" bolt or whatever you call it. It will not budge either. I'm going to try heat . There is a lot of rust in the area. Even three nights worth PB Blaster have not had an effect. I guess i shouldn't be surprised. The car has spent it's entire life in Minnesota. Salt, pot holes etc...

About FCP Groton... They botched my order. I may be a novice but I know the difference between right and left. They sent me the left outer tie rod instead of the right . And I got 2 inner tie rods when I only ordered 1 as stated on the invoice. I'll be giving them a call in the morning...

I'm thinking if torching the pinch bolt doesn't work I might make some cuts in the bolt with a Dremmel to get it off then maybe the outer tie rod will seperate from the inner.

Any sugestions about how to get that outer tie rod end off would be very much appreciated

Post by **vjaneczko** » 09 Feb 2011, 21:22

When I was swapping my outers, I struggled with that nut. After everything you mentioned, I wound up getting a nut splitter. I actually lucked-out and was able to get an old nut from another Volvo owner in the next town over. As it would turn out, when I went to get an alignment, I found I needed to replace the inners which came with the nut - so everything was brand new when I was done. I should have replaced everything from the get-go.

With the struggle you got on your hands, I suggest replacing both inner and outer parts - sounds like you got most everything you need anyways . . .

anmartin44 · Post by **anmartin44** » 10 Feb 2011, 01:01

when you call FCP just tell them to send you the other outer and replace them all. on removing the nut, find the flat spot on the tie rod end and put your 19mm on there and turn it until it's setting on the control arm. then take a big crescent wrench and put it on the nut and pull toward the 19mm that should be locked up against the control arm. if pb blaster is involved i've never had trouble taking them off like this.

PS: i dont remember anything about reverse threads. the nut has to turn right and the tie rod end has to turn left to loosen.

good luck!
andrew

GregM · Post by **GregM** » 10 Feb 2011, 17:42

Thanks Guys! I got the outer tie rod off. Andrew, I followed your advice and I also removed the wheel well splash guard. That gave me just enough room. This repair is a bit harder than I thought it would be but it's a great learning experience. And I even got my garage up to 32 degrees F!
Once I got the outer tie rod held in place I put a crescent wrench on the jam nut and turned Clockwise. As soon as that nut was just a bit off the outer tie rod the outer tie rod spun right off by hand.
Lesson Learned: For me at least, the tie rod probably should have stayed in the hub assembly until I got the jam nut loosened...I think it would have been a bit easier that way. I guess we will see when I do the left side.
On to the the inner tie rod removal!
BTW - FCP Groton is overnighting the correct outer tie rod.

GregM · Post by **GregM** » 12 Feb 2011, 22:22

I removed the inner tie rod - it came off easily.
I Immediately realized that the inner tie rod that I removed was very different than the one I ordered. I brought the new one and the old one to my mechanic. Turns out I have a 1998 V70 SMI steering rack . He got me the correct inner tie rod in a couple of hours. I installed the correct inner and outer tie rods(at least they appear to be...). Put the wheel back on.
I backed the car out of the garage into the driveway and whenever I turn the steering wheel left or right just a little bit I hear a "whine" from what I believe to be the steering rack. I aborted the road test and left in the driveway.
Checked the steering fluid level and it was much higher than normal and had lots of bubbles.

Guys I need some help on this. This is my families primary source of transportation. I cant fit 3 car seats in the other car.
Thanks,
Greg