No Illumination on '95 850 Instrument Panel

007novakitty · Post by **007novakitty** » 20 Feb 2011, 13:32

Hey Everyone,

I am new to the forum, and this is my first post...regarding my '95 850 Wagon, and I truly would appreciate any experienced advice.

So what exactly is going on then?
I lost the illumination to my instrument panel & to my heating/air controls as well.
Radio is working fine.
Spedo/ Odometer(not the lights) & Warning lights are working.
Fuse to Instrument Panel is fine. i checked it with my multimeter and i have continuity. also, there is 12 volts or so to the fuse when the car is running.

My Questions
If it is the rheostat wheel for the Illumination Control (Dimmer) can I test it without removing the dash?
Is it true that if one bulb goes out, will all the dash lights go out?
Is there anything else I should inspect, test, etc?
What else could be the culprit before I go ahead and remove the dashboard, since that is the last thing i want to do.

Post by **erikv11** » 20 Feb 2011, 14:39

not true that if one bulb goes out, they all go out.

I suspect it is the dimmer switch, they are a common problem on these cars. On my 850 you don't have to take apart the dash though, just pop out the large switch the regular way then you can get out the dimmer switch. Get one from a junkyard (or maybe from someone on this forum) and swap it in, that is probably the easiest way to test.

Post by **precopster** » 20 Feb 2011, 15:05

DON'T PULL YOUR DASHBOARD OUT JUST YET!! The variable resistor can be pulled out from the front. First remove the switch beneath it by prying it off with a screwdriver. Then the panel dimmer comes out (its body is quite bulky, that's why you need to remove the lower switch)

All the previous posts on this forum point to this resistor, though some would believe it may be the ignition switch, this hasn't worked in my case.

I have one ready to fit from the yard for my wife's car. The dismantler told me the above method was how he got it out.

As they don't fail often I've seen them on eBay for around $5

007novakitty · Post by **007novakitty** » 20 Feb 2011, 20:41

that is interesting that you mentioned the ignition switch. i am already having issues with the ign. switch. when i turn the car on, i turn the key all the way forward, it starts, but then to get the headlights and other lights to turn on, not to mention me being able to put it in reverse or drive, i have to turn the key back slightly. then boom, the lights come on (that used to include the instrument panel lights), i can shift, and i can drive away.
do you guys have any thoughts on that? also, is there a link for a procedure to replace the ignition switch.

Post by **precopster** » 20 Feb 2011, 23:34

I've had two of them go off (one in the wife's car at 70K miles and my wagon's one at 140K miles)

Four torx screws under the steering wheel shroud and it's 90% out. Use a thin screwdriver torx adapter as a socket adaptor will get stuck in the recessed hole. Then pry the two clips on either side of the black circular connector and off it comes, then one screw and the switch is out.

Sounds like you should try this first. It may fix the instruments as well. Try the link for a quote:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/199

007novakitty · Post by **007novakitty** » 21 Feb 2011, 08:36

Thanks so much for all the information & the link for the ing. switch. I think that the switch is the culprit. I must admit that I have been warned that my keys are like a janitor's bankroll. (I have too many keys on my keychain) which could have caused the issue with my ignition...I will order the ignition switch & keep you guys informed when I do the repair.
Until then, I will keep using my cellphone as a way of monitoring my speed at night.
Thanks, for all the quick responses & all the great information.

To Be Continued...

Post by **precopster** » 21 Feb 2011, 14:33

Ther weight of your keys will eventually effect the tumbler section (mechanical side)

This is the electrical side and is separate.

stutteringp0et · Post by **stutteringp0et** » 23 Feb 2011, 09:28

I had the same problem and didn't want to buy a new dimmer switch (outrageously priced from the dealer!)

I looked around the forums and found a wiring schematic.

I'll have to look at it on my lunch break, but I jumpered across 2 pins and that restored my dash lights.

You won't have a dimmer, but if you're looking for a good test and possible temporary solution, this is it. It doesn't get cheaper than 2 inches of shielded wire.

stutteringp0et · Post by **stutteringp0et** » 23 Feb 2011, 12:32

I just checked and it's pin 1 to pin 4 (they're labeled with tiny little numbers)- I promise.

tlupu81 · Post by **tlupu81** » 23 Feb 2011, 14:04

I'm having similar problems with my dash gonna try a new ignition switch