98v70dad,
Further to what I said above above "Elective" vs "Urgent" stuff, I will be going through the same thing next year as my daughter goes to college.
Actually when I was 18, I already took care of my own cars. Kids these days a a "bit different", they care more about their cellphone cameras than a car LOL. Anyway, this is a list for any college student; these are the best things you can teach a teen (actually they will be adults anyway):
1. Learn how to open a hood and identify major components: what an engine does, what a transmission does.
What is an Alternator? How the battery functions etc. etc.
- Then learn to check all fluids: PS, Engine Oil, Trans fluid (if you have an AT), windshield washer.
And how to add appropriate fluid in appropriate places!
- Believe me, these teenagers can learn facebook, youtube etc. they can learn this stuff.
Whether they are interested in learning the car thingy is another story.
2. Get a generic OBD-II code reader for $45 and store it inside the glovebox.
- Teach your daughter when the CEL light is "On", do not panic, most of the time it is emission codes like MAF etc.
- Teach her how to read an OBD-II codes, very very to do by plugging the code reader into the center console pins and report the codes to you, since you are far away.
3. Check tire pressures once a week.
4. Things that can stall the car:
- Make sure spark plugs, cap/rotor are in good shape (info in forum).
- Make sure fuel filter is changed every 50-60K.
- Ditto Air Filter
- Know the "weakness" of the car, every car has its own weakness. For the 98 V70: fuel relay and MAF are the 2 classic items that can stall the car.
- Show her the Fuse Box and where the fuel relay is located just in case.
Also a quick diagnostic jump (terminals 15 and 87) will confirm the fuel relay is bad.
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/92 ... -bypassed/
- Show her where the MAF is located. In case of stall (happened to me!) and code readers says bad MAF, you can buy a BOSCH (yes Bosch only!) MAF and ship it to her.
- Replacing an MAF is as easy as 1-2-3, similar to replacing a light bulb. Do this rehearsal at home so she is familiar with the procedure should it happen.
-Teach her to watch temp gauge and never drives when it is in the "red" zone.
- The RMS is another issue but this only involves oil loss and not catastrophic failure (unless she ignores checking engine oil).
My RMS leaked at 90K, it was a 9h job for a $30 part!
Other than that this car is bullet-proof. Just maintain the routine stuff (TB, water pump, drive belt) etc. and it should easily last 200K.
Admittedly, teaching this car thingy to a girl is more difficult than teaching a boy, don't ask me how I know this LOL!
98 V70 - Expected long term reliability
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writer100
- Posts: 207
- Joined: 21 August 2009
- Year and Model: 940 1994
- Location: Los Angeles, California
Asian cars can be great cars, but they are often driven by people who do not have any interest in cars.
It is not everybody's idea of fun, but one way to look at owning an older car is that it will teach you how to work on cars. In other words, think of the car as Autoshop 101. My dad dissected a cat in medical school, and later said that "the cat taught him more than it ever knew."
Same with my 940.
It is not everybody's idea of fun, but one way to look at owning an older car is that it will teach you how to work on cars. In other words, think of the car as Autoshop 101. My dad dissected a cat in medical school, and later said that "the cat taught him more than it ever knew."
Same with my 940.
1994 Volvo 940: 189,000 miles.
2008 Mustang GT convertible: 10000 miles. The garage queen.
2008 Mustang GT convertible: 10000 miles. The garage queen.
Believe it or not, I just traded a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with 180,000 miles on it , for a 1995 850 non turbo with 214,000 miles on it for my 19 year old daughter, I did this with no hesitation, My wife drives a 2000 v70 wagon, with 18000+She loves it!!! and I drive a 1998 v70 wagon with 215,000 on it...sure they need some TLC, but if you can turn a wrench and read this forum....than you can keep em going without a bunch of money and cussing, ETC. I love my 3 models and will probably never own another type of vehicle, aside from my 1994 GMC k2500 PU, which has already seen it's 2nd motor, 1st one went 85,000, second one went 44,000, I'm hand building the last one, which will get no less than 200,000.....because I'm an oldschool mechanic, who stay's up with the times.......VOLVOS, once you understand them....they are top of the line for sure...and it doesn't hurt to buy the software manual that Volvo uses in their shops either...that is a top rated software well worth the money if you really wantto keep em going.
Long time reliability....I've got it for sure, and hope all the rest of the people on this forum get the same. Ride On Volvo!!!!
- kcodyjr
- Posts: 1236
- Joined: 31 January 2010
- Year and Model: 2006 S60 2.5T AWD
- Location: Massachusetts, USA
- Has thanked: 17 times
- Been thanked: 23 times
The best advice I can give is to find a local independent Volvo specialist. If you're in Mass or Southern NH, I can recommend one. If not, the key point is to find someone that only wants to work on Volvos.
Have him take a look at it, tell him you've done much but need his judgment, and listen when he says you need OEM parts.
The one thing that hasn't been mentioned, is that the failures are 98% predictable. By now, these machines are very well studied. Someone that really knows them will be able to tell you what's next and roughly when, and at the same time give a reasonable report of how the car's been treated over the years.
Then you can plan maintenance for when he's home anyway, greatly lessening the risk of a bailout trip.
For what it's worth, I'm about to put my 1996 back on the road after its 199K overhaul as my wife's daily driver, and she does tend to drive pretty far afield. To me, the slight risk of having to go after her is well worth it, considering our first child is on the way. So far as I know, a top-tethered child seat in the 2nd row center position of an 850 wagon is just about THE safest place on Earth to be in a crash, and the driver's seat of one is the 2nd safest.
Have him take a look at it, tell him you've done much but need his judgment, and listen when he says you need OEM parts.
The one thing that hasn't been mentioned, is that the failures are 98% predictable. By now, these machines are very well studied. Someone that really knows them will be able to tell you what's next and roughly when, and at the same time give a reasonable report of how the car's been treated over the years.
Then you can plan maintenance for when he's home anyway, greatly lessening the risk of a bailout trip.
For what it's worth, I'm about to put my 1996 back on the road after its 199K overhaul as my wife's daily driver, and she does tend to drive pretty far afield. To me, the slight risk of having to go after her is well worth it, considering our first child is on the way. So far as I know, a top-tethered child seat in the 2nd row center position of an 850 wagon is just about THE safest place on Earth to be in a crash, and the driver's seat of one is the 2nd safest.
2012 C70 T5 Platinum, ember black on cranberry leather
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
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98v70dad
- Posts: 1226
- Joined: 11 March 2011
- Year and Model: 98 V70
- Location: Southeast US
- Has thanked: 1 time
Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to keep it. Since I first posted the question a week ago, the key cylinder has failed and I'll be replacing that and the ignition switch as soon as I can order the part and get my hands on it. I'm thinking of replacing a bunch of the stuff that usually fails as a preventative thing BEFORE it goes. Does anyone know what used parts are worth (I'm think 20 % of new wholesale)as I'll probably offset the cost by selling the old serviceable parts on ebay.
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cn90
- Posts: 8261
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 472 times
LOL,98v70dad wrote:Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to keep it. Since I first posted the question a week ago, the key cylinder has failed and I'll be replacing that and the ignition switch as soon as I can order the part and get my hands on it. I'm thinking of replacing a bunch of the stuff that usually fails as a preventative thing BEFORE it goes. Does anyone know what used parts are worth (I'm think 20 % of new wholesale)as I'll probably offset the cost by selling the old serviceable parts on ebay.
I knew the ignition tumbler is going to be next.
Since you bought the car for good price, put some serious money in and your daughter will be safe.
It is usually more the the tumbler. At that age:
- Ignition Tumbler +/- ignition switch (the elctrical portion)
- "Clockspring", test the horn, if no horn, likely your "Clockspring is gone".
DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Ignition Switch & Cylinder Lock
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=34472
DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Springclock (Airbag/Horn Contact Unit)
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=34639
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
- kcodyjr
- Posts: 1236
- Joined: 31 January 2010
- Year and Model: 2006 S60 2.5T AWD
- Location: Massachusetts, USA
- Has thanked: 17 times
- Been thanked: 23 times
Your two best friends will be FCPgroton, and eBay.
Don't touch used control arms. Better to get new aftermarket when you can't afford OEM.
Fuel pumps and drive axles, I've heard many an indy installing a used unit. I just did a used P/S pump.
I wouldn't touch a used heater core; for that matter, I wouldn't use aftermarket either.
Note: if you're going to do a thermostat, replace the temp sensor while you're in there. $50 for OEM. Don't skimp.
Others: what are you planning to replace?
Key cylinder: Haven't had that problem with either of mine. Very likely someone had a 50lb keychain from hell; I know the old 240's used to be vulnerable to that. They had a spot high on the center console where you could rest the bulk of the keys. Nothing else for it in the new ones but to keep the keychain light. Of course, it's too late, if it's already broken.
Since it does sound like the previous owner was clue-challenged, allow me to repeat my recommendation to bring it to a local independent Volvo specialist for a real close look through.
Happy motoring!
Don't touch used control arms. Better to get new aftermarket when you can't afford OEM.
Fuel pumps and drive axles, I've heard many an indy installing a used unit. I just did a used P/S pump.
I wouldn't touch a used heater core; for that matter, I wouldn't use aftermarket either.
Note: if you're going to do a thermostat, replace the temp sensor while you're in there. $50 for OEM. Don't skimp.
Others: what are you planning to replace?
Key cylinder: Haven't had that problem with either of mine. Very likely someone had a 50lb keychain from hell; I know the old 240's used to be vulnerable to that. They had a spot high on the center console where you could rest the bulk of the keys. Nothing else for it in the new ones but to keep the keychain light. Of course, it's too late, if it's already broken.
Since it does sound like the previous owner was clue-challenged, allow me to repeat my recommendation to bring it to a local independent Volvo specialist for a real close look through.
Happy motoring!
2012 C70 T5 Platinum, ember black on cranberry leather
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
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98v70dad
- Posts: 1226
- Joined: 11 March 2011
- Year and Model: 98 V70
- Location: Southeast US
- Has thanked: 1 time
Car will start but key turns round and round and round unless you're holding it just right (in between the lock stops) and you have jiggle the key a bit. My daughter has what I would call a negative mechanical ability. If it works she can break it. She and her mom both seem to believe that pushing harder on something that isn't working is always the the best course of action. Anyhow they both have other positive qualities that I don't have, but I do tire of being the household fix it guy. I think I could drive the car as is for awhile, but she just can't get it started
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98v70dad
- Posts: 1226
- Joined: 11 March 2011
- Year and Model: 98 V70
- Location: Southeast US
- Has thanked: 1 time
Car will start but key turns round and round and round unless you're holding it just right (in between the lock stops) and you have jiggle the key a bit. My daughter has what I would call a negative mechanical ability. If it works she can break it. She and her mom both seem to believe that pushing harder on something that isn't working is always the the best course of action. Anyhow they both have other positive qualities that I don't have, but I do tire of being the household fix it guy. I think I could drive the car as is for awhile, but she just can't get it started
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98v70dad
- Posts: 1226
- Joined: 11 March 2011
- Year and Model: 98 V70
- Location: Southeast US
- Has thanked: 1 time
oh BTW ... I think the previous owner took pretty good care of the car. They did ALL the recommended maintenance and there was nothing wrong with it when I bought it except a cracked windshield. They showed me the receipts when I bought the car, so there is no question there. I guess that was my original point. I've maintained about 10 cars over the years and up to 200K miles doing most repairs myself. I have never owned something that was this needy and unpredictable. I worked a whole career maintaining a fleet of several hundred airplanes and car maintenance is very similar. You can spend the money early wasting a little replacing things that don't need to be replaced yet (better reliability) or you can wait and do nothing and deal with what fails when it fails at maybe lower cost but definitely higher pain.
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