2000 S40 problem

gbeauvin · Post by **gbeauvin** » 17 Mar 2011, 12:54

Hey guys! Is there an online source for instructions, preferably with pictures, on how to verify the timing on my 2000 S40?

The engine is running nasty, throwing a P0014 as well as cyl 2 misfires (not to mention some coolant codes including P0125... I'm pretty certain given the strange water temp dial behavior that my coolant temp sense is dead).

We've replaced the FPR, fuel filter, and spark plugs. Listened all over the engine for an air leak, including playing with the air input at the filter housing to see if the behavior changes when we block off some of the air flow etc. Swapped both coils and wires with my '04 V40 to ensure they're not causing a spark problem.

Current hypothesis is timing (fuel - check, air - check, spark - check... combined with the p00014 code?). The timing belt is covered with oil (the engine leaks like a seive), so we're thinking it might have jumped a cog?

-GB

gbeauvin · Post by **gbeauvin** » 19 Mar 2011, 23:46

So... 4 hours over at my buddy's house this afternoon, and I've got everything pulled off so we can look at the timing marks, expecting to find something off (nice little pool of oil in the bottom timing belt cover, whee). Marks all look good. A bit strange that it didn't appear to be TDC when they all lined up, but my silly little haynes manual just says that when the crankshaft mark lines up with the indicator, so should the camshaft marks. Well, they do.

Now we're at a loss. Took off the VVT solenoid to see if it's sludged up, but everything looks clean (well, oily of course, but not nasty). The little screen looked perfectly clean.

Any suggestions?

-GB

randyman · Post by **randyman** » 20 Mar 2011, 06:41

Do a compression test on all cylinders and compare them, could have a damaged valve or cam lobe.

Post by **jimmy57** » 20 Mar 2011, 09:00

Does it run OK off idle? Misses at all speeds?
Low oil pressure will make the VVT hub unable to reach its target and that will set the code. Maybe an actual gauge screwed to oil pressure switch port test will tell you something. The oil P switch threads are metric (10 mm) so you will need an adapter.

gbeauvin · Post by **gbeauvin** » 20 Mar 2011, 20:12

It runs poorly at all speeds, though it's worse at idle. I get the blinky CEL frequently, both at idle and at speed. Sometimes from idle, it dies right after giving it gas (it's been worse immediately after starting, but it's happened at a red light before).

Where do I find the oil pressure switch port? I have a Haynes manual (the australian version, I believe), but it's with the car at my buddy's house so I can't look at it right now.

I'm planning to check to see if he has the cylinder compression guage, but will probably buy one at harbor freight this week if he doesn't. Thinking of picking up a fuel pressure guage while I'm at it. He mentioned that there was a second filter in the fuel path (sitting right on top of pump) that we haven't changed yet, I think we're grasping at straws now though.

-GB

Post by **jimmy57** » 21 Mar 2011, 00:01

The oil pressure switch is on front of block as installed in car. Has one wire on it. It is just behind A/C compressor.

gbeauvin · Post by **gbeauvin** » 01 Jun 2011, 16:26

Alright, so I finally got a compression tester, and sure enough -- 25PSI on cylinder 3. My buddy puts a bit of oil in the cylinder to see if this changes the compression, and now it reads 40PSI. We're at our wits end, not really wanting to tear this engine apart, so on the off chance that it's just a sticky ring (his thought, I'm clueless) or something gumming up a valve, the cylinder gets soaked in Berryman B12 for a day, then he get sthe B12 out and tries starting it... smokey smokey smokey, but eventually clears. Then I bring a bottle of seafoam, and we follow the directions on the bottle. 1/3 in gas tank (a little over 5 gallons in the tank), 1/3 in the oil (which is in the middle of the dipstick cross-hatch area), and 1/3 into the intake.

Odd thing is, with the little intake tube disconnected (so we can pour the seafoarm a little at a time into the intake) it seems to be idling considerably smoother. no idea whats going on there. But we run the seafoam through it, somewhat smokey, let it run awhile, then kill it.

Is there any way to tell based on the behavior what's causing the loss of compression? I really don't want to pay somebody $90 an hour to take it apart just to see what's wrong, then hit me with a repair estimate that's more than the car is worht, and left with $200 of diagnostics whether I fix it or not...

Plan of the moment is to just limp along to work and back until I can save enough for something else, or until it fails catastrophically.

thanks!

-GB

Bandit7311 · Post by **Bandit7311** » 01 Jun 2011, 18:37

Is there any way to tell based on the behavior what's causing the loss of compression?

Search for a mechanic shop which has an endoskop which will make it possible to look into the cylinder without dis-assembling.

Maybe you really have a valve with a hole in it or something...

Solong
B