car will not idle and stalls out when at stop sign or light

salleeray · Post by **salleeray** » 03 Mar 2011, 12:25

my 1989 volvo 240 dl is taking a turn for the worse. it has gone from stalling out at stop signs and lights to not even idling in park. ran well after replacing head gasket,timing belt,coil,dist. cap,rotor,wires,plugs and last but not least the fuel regulator which was bad.had to brake and gas at same time to get it to a safe place.any guidance on where to go next would be grately appreciated. thank you.

gyrene · Post by **gyrene** » 06 Mar 2011, 13:55

Throttle Position Sensor, IAC (Idle Air Control motor), RPM sensor. To name a few. Good Luck. Oh yea, the MAF sensor.

beetlebob · Post by **beetlebob** » 08 Mar 2011, 09:50

First move the throttle from under the hood and listen hard for a clicking noise. That is the TPS sensor clicking means it is going to the stop to activate the IAC motor. Some do not click and you have to use a DVOM but most do. Second is the throttle plate clean. Dirty ones do just what you are saying. Also clean out IAC motor they stick and get dirty. Try this and see what happens

NewToOldVolvo · Post by **NewToOldVolvo** » 21 Mar 2011, 18:36

Beetlebob...I was just told that my IAC needed to be replaced? The repair will be about $400. How do I try cleaning the IAC first?

gyrene · Post by **gyrene** » 22 Mar 2011, 12:49

Changing that part is a piece of cake. ipdusa.com has them for less than $200.00. However, I cleaned mine with The same stuff used to clean my Mass Air Flow sensor, you can get it at any part store. Good Luck. Oh Yeah check the hoses they can clog up.

superbob · Post by **superbob** » 22 Mar 2011, 17:50

We just bought a 1985 244dl with the lh-jetronic 2.2 inj sys, same problem. i'm not familiar with volvos but am starting to like them although this one doesn't run. yet. it did run quite well, though, and i'm told it was a daily driver. although i did find a new fuel filter in the trunk... installed that.

hot-wired both pumps, they run. polished up sending unit and reinstalled everything. pumps run in place too, and getting gas at pressure regulator. car started and ran until it was about warmed up, then bogged and stalled. i was actually under the car when the fuel pump cut off. do they cut off at correct pressure, or run all the time?

the pre-pump cuts on when they key is in the run position; the main pump never has, not until you try to crank the car. now, after the car has died and will not kick over again, and there is no longer any fuel to the regulator, even during cranking; the main pump kicks on while you try to crank the car and shuts off again a few seconds after you let off the key.

pulled the relay and checked its guts. no burning, no corrosion, no cracks in the solder. looks new. i want to try hot-wiring the main pump in place and see if the car will crank and run, but am afraid of power surges to the control unit.

unplugging the air mass meter doesn't help it start.

thanks for any tips you can give me, y'all.

beetlebob · Post by **beetlebob** » 15 Apr 2011, 08:23

I do not get on often has any of these cars been fixed. I see 2 different problems on this post and do not know if I should give any more help. If fixed it would be nice to see a fix

Post by **jonesg** » 07 May 2011, 16:12

Thread hi-jack.!