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issues removing radiator

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Brake Pedal Sensor Replacement - 2001 V70XC
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XennoTech
Posts: 6
Joined: 23 March 2011
Year and Model: 850, 1994
Location: san antonio

issues removing radiator

Post by XennoTech »

im competent with the work i do on my 850, but for the life of me, ive never encountered a hose with this connection on any car before. would like some advice on 1) what kind of connection piece this is and 2) what tool(s) are required to remove it? car is a 1994 850, automatic with AC. im pretty sure i only have the radiator w/ transmission oil cooler, as i only have connections on one side, not both.

the connection in question is circled in black and is only visible on the right side of the radiator, assuming you are standing in front of the car.

Image

jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

If you rotate it a gap will seen. I can see the gap in the top line in picture. In the gap use spreader pliers and it opens the lock collar and the line can be pulled out. You may be able to use a large flat blade screwdriver and twist it in the gap to open enough. Try to remove collar at that time collar goes back on line and slides over tapered fitting on rad w/o use of the pliers though it can remain on the rad fitting if the coupler is positioned with the correct side facing to the rear. Be careful as the collars can break if you spread them too far open.

FCPEURO
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Post by FCPEURO »

+1

Also, when you put the line back on and press the collar back together, I would recommend putting a zip tie around it so that is stays closed. I have seen them not close enough and under the pressure of the transmission fluid pumping through the line, the line blow off.

XennoTech
Posts: 6
Joined: 23 March 2011
Year and Model: 850, 1994
Location: san antonio

Post by XennoTech »

many thanks guys. i was eating dinner, but now am going back out to tackle removing the radiator and replacing it and the fan. one more question. the fan i got is a single speed fan. i needed something now, since the wife works in law enforcement and a car is essential to her work. which relaiy should i connect her too? id kind of like to have it on whenever the car is, because the wife runs the AC 24/7 when shes in the car. otherwise, id want it to turn on when it hits the first temp mark that activates the 'low' speed.

many thanks!

XennoTech
Posts: 6
Joined: 23 March 2011
Year and Model: 850, 1994
Location: san antonio

Post by XennoTech »

well, ive got everything disassembled, however ive ran into a big issue. the repair manual says after i disconnect the bolts that connect it to the condensor, to pull the radiator up and out. problem is, the mounting brackets that i disconnected seem to be UNDER the metal piece. when i try and lift it, the support brackets on the left and right hit the mounting bracket and it seems like theres no way to get the bloody thing out.

ill take pix in the morning to better illustrate what im referring too.

precopster
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Post by precopster »

The radiator drops DOWN and out. This is a description of how I best remember it though it has been four months since I did this job:

Remove the lower plastic engine shield (2 x 10mm self tapping bolts through the chassis), jack the car up quite high to allow clearance for the radiator. Undo four self tappers through the relay bracket, then remove the cooling fan. Place the relay bracket to the side.

First you'll need a really good miniature 3/8" drive with a bend piece to find the two 10mm bolts next to each headlight, then undo the undo the other two lower 10mm bolts (these four 10mm bolts go through the condensor)

The two vertical bolts (12mm) which go up and through the rubber grommets release the radiator.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

sven
Posts: 64
Joined: 11 May 2010
Year and Model: 03 V70 97 850 R.I.P
Location: Central PA

Post by sven »

You might have to move the SAS pump out of the way. At least on my 97 NA, I had to do this.

XennoTech
Posts: 6
Joined: 23 March 2011
Year and Model: 850, 1994
Location: san antonio

Post by XennoTech »

precopster wrote:The radiator drops DOWN and out. This is a description of how I best remember it though it has been four months since I did this job:

Remove the lower plastic engine shield (2 x 10mm self tapping bolts through the chassis), jack the car up quite high to allow clearance for the radiator. Undo four self tappers through the relay bracket, then remove the cooling fan. Place the relay bracket to the side.

First you'll need a really good miniature 3/8" drive with a bend piece to find the two 10mm bolts next to each headlight, then undo the undo the other two lower 10mm bolts (these four 10mm bolts go through the condensor)

The two vertical bolts (12mm) which go up and through the rubber grommets release the radiator.
note to self: manuals sometimes can be wrong.

this helps me understand why it wont come out :P

however, i broke down, called a mobile mechanic to help me out and get the thing out now. he should be here in a few hours. i spent a good 6 hours last night unhooking, draining and trying to wrestle the radiator out. i didnt force it, but i did give it some love...

any thoughts on the universal fan i got? it mounted up to my old fan shroud, but since its a single speed, im wondering if im going to need to run a switch to the inside of my car and turn it on manually now, or if i can use the pre-existing relays and hook it up to them? remember, theres a red, green and black wire that were on the old, burnt out fan.

XennoTech
Posts: 6
Joined: 23 March 2011
Year and Model: 850, 1994
Location: san antonio

Post by XennoTech »

300$ later, 12 hours of grueling work, my radiator and new fan are in. car no longer leaks coolant. i DID have a 1-1-3 and 4-4-4 error code, but that was resolved with tracking down a few vacuum leaks.

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