Lower front controll arm bushing V90

RCR · Post by **RCR** » 25 Mar 2011, 16:07

I just did a front brake job on mine ( what a MESS as some one did not lube the pins at the last brake job and every one was seized in the bore!) and when I tightened the left front wheel i noticed the whole assembly moving noticeably several inches to the rear. Looks like the lower control arm rear mount (the big rubber mount that has the bolt running vertical through it is what I am talking about here) is soft and has a lot of play in the rubber but looks to be still intact. Caught me by surprise and I need to take a road trip over the weekend but can not get parts to do the repair before I leave is this dangerous? This design is different from any I have seen so is this thing a danger to come apart and drop the wheel or no?

Post by **JDS60R** » 25 Mar 2011, 16:09

yes- dangerous

RCR · Post by **RCR** » 25 Mar 2011, 16:11

Thanks for the quick response. Caught me totally by surprise. How bad is the repair to do?

Post by **JDS60R** » 25 Mar 2011, 17:41

Should not be too bad. Looks like you may need a press if you are only doing the bushings. No procedure in VADIS I could post for you. Perhaps someone else will jump in.

In similar cases you can not just jack it up and take out the lower control arm as the strut is still putting tension on it. Hopefully someone will have the procedure to safely remove it.

In a pinch I would jack on the lower ball joint while the car is in the air and tire off. Then remove the bushing bolts and slowly lower the jack down. This can be dangerous if not done correctly.

RCR · Post by **RCR** » 26 Mar 2011, 01:14

Anybody used the lower control arm assemblies FCP sells? Lower control arms with bushings and a pair of the Nordic Ball joints would only run $166 shipped to my door. That is tempting to just snag the whole assembly bolt on and be done with it.
I have bought a bunch of stuff for the V90 from FCP as many times they have parts for these cars other guys don't and so far no complaints.

RCR · Post by **RCR** » 26 Mar 2011, 11:39

Just ordered both complete lower control arms and the TRW Ball joints.

peteco · Post by **peteco** » 29 Mar 2011, 13:48

RCR,

You are saving some hassle by replacing the entire arm. The job is actually pretty easy.

A couple of things to watch out for: bolt torque and bolt tightening sequence.

Bolt torque: you will probably not get new bolts for the rear bushings with the arms. The bolts that are in the rear bushing are torque to yield bolts. I found that out when one of the bolts was stretched when I removed the arm from the car. I got new bolts from the Volvo dealer ($8 as I recall). I think I have the tightening instructions at home somewhere. If you don't find the specs let me know.

Bolt tightening sequence: Don't tighten the forward bushing bolt until you have lowered the vehicle wheels onto ramps to put the vehicle weight on the suspension. This puts the forward bushing in the "neutral" position. Then tighten that bolt. If you tighten the fwd bushing bolt when the wheels are off the ground then that bushing will probably fail in short order.

Several discussion threads on Turbobricks Forum on these topics. Look at these and do an additional search. Everything I discussed is in there somewhere. Also, keep your old arms. Hopefully your new bushings will last a long time but sometimes the aftermarket stuff doesn't work out to well. If that happens, then get Volvo bushings and install them in the old arms. Search Turbobricks for that as well.

http://www.turbobricks.org/forums/showt ... 0&t=207584

http://www.turbobricks.org/forums/showt ... 0&t=215140

http://www.turbobricks.org/forums/showt ... 0&t=216384

peteco · Post by **peteco** » 29 Mar 2011, 13:52

Also, replace the torsion bar bushings while you are under there. They are not that expensive, even from the Volvo dealer.

Also, check your torsion bar links. They are likely bad as well. Again, the Volvo dealer price wasn't too outrageous, especially if you don't have time to shop around. Ask them if they will give you a discount; I got 10-15%.

RCR · Post by **RCR** » 29 Mar 2011, 15:37

First off yes I intend on keeping the old arms in case the aftermarket arms are not up to the factory standards. If you mean replace the sway bar links and bushings yes I already have the new ones and will replace them at the same time as the control arms and ball joints.
Thanks for the tip on the rear busing bolts being torque to yield, I had no idea on that so yes I will replace them. Good tip also on lowering the car and bouncing it as you want to "normalize the busing before fully tightening the bolts. I knew that but many would not.
You guys are great on this stuff and as usual come through again THANKS!