ABS Module??

Post by **dvlchd3** » 30 Mar 2011, 00:25

I have a 2000 S70. The other day I was driving and noticed the SRS light on in the dash. Not too worried about losing airbags, I continued and figured I'd check it out later. Well, within a couple of minutes this happened, in this order with about 10-15 seconds in between:

1. SRS Light On
2. ABS Light On
3. Brake Light On
4. Speedometer drops to 0 (while still moving)
5. CEL On

At this point, I got off to a safe place, and turned off my car. With hope in my mind, I turn the key to start it again, hoping it was just a glitch or something, and I could continue my journey. When I turned the key, the car wouldn't start. All the lights came on in the dash, there was no sound of any attempt to start the engine, then everything went off, then came back on.

After waiting 15 minutes, and calling several people on the phone for a ride, I tried to start the car again, and magically it started!

In an attempt to get back home, I drove through the above symptoms, then noticed my car started 'limping'. It lost power, and didn't want to go above 2000 RPMs (I drive a manual). A little while longer, my trip computer went to all dashes, and finally my car starting decelerating, and finally stopped, and then stalled out (with the clutch in).

ANYWAY, Looking around online, it appears it may be the ABS Module. However, the posts I see do not indicate the car losing power and 'limping' as a symptom, nor the fact that the car will not start. I have since removed the two ABS fuses, and disconnected the ABS Module connections. However, the car still exhibits the same symptoms. (I noticed my headlights do not come on, but it was dark when I disconnected the ABS Module, so its possible this is a symptom as well, as opposed to a problem with removing fuses and disconnecting wires).

Does the ABS Module need to be fully removed before these issues will go away, or am I chasing the wrong problem? [Don't think I'm implying I'm going to yank the unit out and drive it forever. I plan on replacing it of course!]

Post by **Matty Moo** » 30 Mar 2011, 01:45

Your ABS module isn't causing those other issues. Your problem lies somewhere else.

da7 · Post by **da7** » 30 Mar 2011, 07:27

if u wanted an urgent answer, it sounds like a key barrel problem, I'm not 100% sure though someone should correct me if I'm wrong...

Post by **jblackburn** » 30 Mar 2011, 07:41

You've got an overheating battery cable or other electrical issue. Since it restarted, it sounds like the alternator is still OK.

Post by **EstVolvo** » 30 Mar 2011, 11:49

How many miles on your 2000 S70?
Ever had:
- battery cable replaced?
- ETM replaced?

Alecw81 · Post by **Alecw81** » 30 Mar 2011, 12:30

Id also check your MAF and o2 sensors.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 30 Mar 2011, 12:49

My bet? Go directly to the power supply...
Have your battery and charging system checked.
These are exactly the kinds of things you can expect
with low voltage. Battery, cables, alternator. Check it ALL.
Don't forget the B+ cable that runs from the battery to the main fuse box.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 30 Mar 2011, 13:26

Try to jiggle the key and see if things change the next time it acts up on you.

Many of your issues point to a bad ABS module but the others don't and a flaky ignition switch can cause all of them. If the key jiggling doesn't work then the battery cable is the next in line on the suspect list as BEJinFBK suggested.

...Lee

Post by **dvlchd3** » 30 Mar 2011, 20:13

Thank you all for the replies.

My S70 has ~160k miles.

There has always been an issue with the immobilizer, however, it was rare, and removing the key and inserting it again seemed to always start the car if the first time failed. BTW, when the immobilizer problem occurs, the start is different, there is no restart like is occurring now.

Never replaced the battery cable, but ETM was replaced (the entire unit) under the recall a few years ago.

My transmission is making a sound, but at the recommendation of my transmission mechanic, I'm just going to drive it until it goes completely...however, I'm not sure if that can have an impact.

I've also been having issues with rough idling. My car, only when the engine is warm, will sometimes idle extremely rough, and will occasionally stall, or drop below normal idle when I push in the clutch. The CEL light came on with a general misfire, and the front O2 sensor. After replacing the sensor, it seemed to run fine for a few weeks, now the symptoms are back. (No CEL light, just rough idle when the engine is warm). Not sure if this could be related.

We're getting snow here today, but I plan on checking the battery when it melts in the 60 degree weather this weekend (March is weird...). I'm just confused on how that could impact the car while its running. Is it possible the alternator is not providing power after the car starts, then stuff starts shutting off due to lack of power, eventually resulting in the entire car turning off? Is there a quick and easy test for this?

Post by **jblackburn** » 30 Mar 2011, 20:45

The battery cables can overheat and slowly stop delivering power to the electrical things in the car - kinda giving you that "fade out" effect that a dying battery working on its own without the alternator to power the car would have.

I had a Buick that did this exact same thing - the battery cable was burning hot to the touch.

Once an alternator quits, it's dead forever, so that doesn't sound like the cause.