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This stuff really works!

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jblackburn
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This stuff really works!

Post by jblackburn »

My car has the usual 850/-70 series problem with a leaking AC charge, and given that I can't find any evidence of anything leaking, it must be the evaporator.

Last year, I was putting a can of R-134 in it every 2 weeks or so (where it was back to the point of cycling on and off every 5 seconds), and it was really starting to get on my nerves.

This summer, I tried some of the freon mixed with a "system-safe" leak sealer. I did a little bit of research before I bought it, and didn't see too many negative reviews saying "this blew up my entire car, etc.", so I decided to give it a try. My dad had previously used the stuff in their old '87 Buick Century that had been converted over to R-134, and it worked great in that til the day it was attacked by a truck and we sold it.

Anyway, I first put this stuff in my car in mid-April, when it began to get rainy and my windows kept fogging up. Since then, I have put maybe 1 1/2 more cans of it in, and for the last month (checked it this afternoon), it was still holding a steady pressure at 35 psi from what I filled it to (75 degrees outside) and is still ice cold in the hot weather we've been having.

So...and as much as I don't believe in "miracle products"...this stuff really works!...for now.

I, of course, have to say that while I recommend it, and people here generally recommend against using leak-sealers in any automotive system, I have had success with it, but I, Matt, or MVS isn't responsible if you try it and your AC system explodes :wink:
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'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

robster
Posts: 2
Joined: 9 August 2010
Year and Model: 1997 850
Location: north carolina

Post by robster »

Thanks. I'm thinking that it's not working now, the car has 180k miles on it, and its a $1200 repair.

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

Good to hear that's working, Justin. (This is why I love my 850 as much as ever -- the downside of experimenting isn't as bad as it used to be from a car replacement $ perspective.)
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

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SimLyons
Posts: 806
Joined: 3 April 2011
Year and Model: 2001 V70 T5
Location: Newberg, OR (Portland)

Post by SimLyons »

OK, I got the "stuff" to recharge the system. Now I need to connect it. Anyine with photos to show the connection? I think it's the one with "6nm" on tyop of the cap (I know...newton meters). Does the cap require a service tool to remove? I tried "finger force" but it didn't budge. Before I move to the pliers or vice grips or ?? I'd like some advice. I don't want to end up with a major fitting issue or broken cap, etc. Again, thanks for all the help on earlier question. Sim

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

That's the one - it should not be hard to get off unless something has gunked up on the cap. Get the pliers and grab the top as gently as possible and twist.

Follow the instructions on the can for refilling pressure vs the ambient temperature. Don't overcharge or the ac actually becomes less effective.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

MatDesign84
Posts: 239
Joined: 29 April 2007
Year and Model: 1997,855 T5
Location: Johnson City, TN
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Post by MatDesign84 »

I think the cap is actually shaped hexagonal, might be able to use a socket to get it off is needed.
Currently: 1997, 855 T5 | 1998 Subaru Legacy GT 2.5
Previous: 1997, 850 GLT | 1993, 850 GLT | 1988, BMW 325i, 1990 Volvo 240 DL
"That's good to know though in case they let loose again, but I swear if they do, I'll punch something." -jblackburn

SimLyons
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Joined: 3 April 2011
Year and Model: 2001 V70 T5
Location: Newberg, OR (Portland)

Post by SimLyons »

I got it off with a bit of a twist using my pliers. Just needed a nudge. It's too cold, still, to have a decent ambient. Hoping Spring arrives soon! Question: How does one "evacuate" the system? Is it because R134 is not to be released to atmosphere? If it IS OK, then how is that done? I suppose an Auto AC shop...but I hate to pay them now that I have the EZ Chill.
Sim

MatDesign84
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Post by MatDesign84 »

I guess you could air it out to the atmosphere if you want to help destroy the planet. That's probably what I would do. I dont recommend it though, therefor I cant really help you. Jblackburn?
Currently: 1997, 855 T5 | 1998 Subaru Legacy GT 2.5
Previous: 1997, 850 GLT | 1993, 850 GLT | 1988, BMW 325i, 1990 Volvo 240 DL
"That's good to know though in case they let loose again, but I swear if they do, I'll punch something." -jblackburn

jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

Recovery is catching it for re-use to keep from releasing it into the atmosphere. Revovcery stops at 15 inches vaccum.
Evacuation is pulling a full vacuum to 29 inches (total elimination of atmospheric pressure) so that all old refrigerant and the moisture is removed. Moisture removal is the crucial part and requires the system components be warm for the moisture to "boil" under full vacuum.
the

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

If your AC system still had residual pressure in it - enough to cycle your compressor off and on before you filled it, you probably don't need to have it evacuated; it still should hold the refrigerant in there just fine. Problems arise when all of it escapes and the system and receiver/dryer fill with air and moisture.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

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