TURBO OIL DRAIN LINE - CAN'T STOP LEAKS

toolmanjsp · Post by **toolmanjsp** » 08 Apr 2011, 13:31

I have this frustrating problem with the turbo oil drain line in my 94 sedan. I have sealed and re-sealed the connection between the block and tube about 6 times and always within a few days to a couple of weeks it starts leaking again, sometimes enough to splash back on the Cat and cause a stink, and it's making the GF mad about the growing stain on the driveway. So now he (the wagon is the "she") is relegated to street parking down a ways from our townhouse... leaving his stain in front of the neighbors house like a bad boy!

Never had this problem with the wagon. Apart first time together last November, fitted once and it is still dry.

So for the easy things that I've already checked:

1. Engine replaced last April/May with good JY engine of '96 vintage. New oil trap and all associated plumbing changed at same time, about 20,000 miles ago. Dropped pan, changed O rings, cleaned block passages for oil trap and replaced both crank and all 4 cam seals while it was out. Oil changed regularly at 3 to 3.5K miles, have been using Castrol synthetic.
2. PTC clean as a whistle; no restriction there.
3. Very little crankcase pressure, about .1" water column pressure on the manometer at idle which in my experience seems about normal for a gasoline engine of moderate wear; no smoke from dipstick tube. For comparison the wagon has about .2" water column at idle and a little smoke but has at least 75K more miles.
4. Manifold and turbo mounting bolts tight.
5. First few times I used the seal from either eEuro or FCP (Elring brand). Last time seal came straight from the local dealer in a Volvo bag (had to special order!) but it looked and felt (size and hardness) identical to the Elring seal.
6. Hole in block is smooth, no scratches, gouges; don't think there is a crack
7. Drain tube looks good, no dents, lines up squarely, doesn't have any cracks or holes
8. Tube seats deeply enough so that the raised annular ring is at the top of the hole. Goes in with just about the right amount of friction.
8. Inspection mirror says the leak is DEFINITELY coming from this place - it is not coming down from a cam seal or the flange on the upper end of the drain tube, or the top of the turbo.

When I had the pan off, I noticed the hole in the block for the drain tube is right above and very close to one of the crank counterweights. The engine turns forward (clockwise looking at the timing belt end), so any oil on this counterweight would tend to splash up against this connection. Seems like a questionable design but it works (in most cases)...

I'm a pretty good wrench and know some tricks on fixing oil leaks, having been a shipboard engineer for the past 30 years. But this one is vexing me to the point I'm ready to throw things at the car. I'm tempted to use some Loctite 515 or Volvo "chemical gasket" and goop the h_ll out of it so it never comes apart again. But before I do that I wanted to throw it out to the forum and see if someone smarter than me has overcome this problem.

Anyone experience the same? If so, what was your fix? Any ideas?

Thanks, Jeff

Post by **pkc303** » 08 Apr 2011, 14:17

I had the same problem, and then one day at the dealer, he mentioned they changed the rubber "O" ring design. I never saw the difference, but put in the new one. It worked for a while, then leaked. I put in another, and it worked. Haven't changed it since. The raised annular ring is down tight on the "O' ring. It is a little difficult to get the tube in, but it is tight and doesn't leak. I got pretty good, and could change it in about 20 min.

toolmanjsp · Post by **toolmanjsp** » 08 Apr 2011, 17:47

Thanks PKC-

Isn't it funny how some cars have no problems and others seem to try your best efforts and your patience!

I think I'm going to get another new one (or two) from the dealer and cement it in with the chemical gasket and dare it to leak. I'll probably regret doing that but I'm tried of fixing it over and over again!

Jeff

Post by **JDS60R** » 08 Apr 2011, 18:07

I install the seal with Hylomar on both inner and outer when leaks are an issue.

toolmanjsp · Post by **toolmanjsp** » 08 Apr 2011, 18:56

Thanks JDS-

I've never tried Hylomar, I see that it is a non-setting sealer. I've used a lot of Loctite 515, its an anerobic that sets but is supposed to "flex with flanges" as they say, and of course the Victor Reinz "Reinzosil-t" that the dealer sold me to seal up the pan (the "chemical gasket" I was referring to). It seems to be an anerobic also.

I'll give the Hylomar a shot, nothing else has seemed to work yet. I'll let you know in a few days if it works or not!

Jeff

Post by **JDS60R** » 08 Apr 2011, 19:58

Make sure to replace the tube if it is corroded or has burrs you cant remove(obvious, but has to be said).

I think you will like Hylomar. Make sure to give it a minute to release its solvent and then assemble. I would use it both between the block and seal as well as between the seal and tube.

Post by **jreed** » 09 Apr 2011, 05:58

I replaced my turbo oil drain line gasket 16 months ago on my '97 855 GLT at ~130K miles and used a small amount of silicone RTV sealant on the gasket and o-ring. I read that tip on the volvospeed board. So far, no leaks!

toolmanjsp · Post by **toolmanjsp** » 09 Apr 2011, 20:30

Well, I bought some Hylomar from the local Advance Auto and stuck it together with the last seal ring (used but looks brand new). But actually I think I found the problem. I trimmed about 1/16" off the end where the seal ring goes. It seemed the tube was just a bit too long... I was always forcing it in place to get the upper flange screws in and maybe by doing that it was bottoming in the shoulder in the block hole and pushing the tube to one side and allowing it to leak. This time it went in easily.

Time will tell, I'll let y'all know if it holds, and thanks everyone for the tips!

Jeff

Post by **pkc303** » 20 Apr 2011, 22:35

How's it holding?

toolmanjsp · Post by **toolmanjsp** » 20 Dec 2011, 11:38

Time to report back.

It held all summer. Then about turkey day I detected a whiff of burnt oil smell and then noticed he left a new little stain on the driveway... Bad boy, he's leaking again.

I haven't taken it off yet to see what it might be THIS TIME, but I did lift it up enough to see that it was indeed the turbo drain tube a'leaking AGAIN at the block end. Maybe go and get a different tube from somewhere.

Meanwhile the wagon is rolling along leak-free (engine and trans) except for an annoying leak that just started from a 6-month old rebuilt steering rack. So both the Volvos are now leakers and relegated to street parking for a while. They still drive sweet though and those heated seats as the weather turns cold...!

Jeff