Timing Belt Replacement

Post by **chrism** » 04 Apr 2011, 06:47

I'm about to dive into my first FWD timing belt replacement. I ve done RWD's several times over the years, but had a couple questions. My guidance is a Haynes manual that makes it all sound fairly straight forward. I plan to replace the tensioner and idler at the same time, along with the serpentine belt. I have not looked at the cam sprockets yet, but according to Haynes there should be very finely scribed index marks on the sprockets. If this is true, why does everyone make it sound like it's imperative to use a cam locking tool like the four-legged device that IPD sells? When the tensioner is relaxed, do the cams "spring" forward or backward causing valve/piston contact? If I find a leaky seal, my understanding is that I then need to secure the cams at the opposite ends so that I can remove the sprockets and not lose my reference. Are the sprockets not keyed to the cams? So let's say the seals still look tight yet everyone says I need to secure the cams before removing the belt - what tool is recommended? IPD gizmo? Homemade? And if I have to secure the opposite ends of the cams to remove the sprockets, what tool is recommended?

Any other pointers before I dive in are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Post by **jimmy57** » 04 Apr 2011, 09:16

It is not a hard job other than access issues.
The marks are faintly scribed unless someone has marked them before.
Once engine is turned where marks align with notches on underside of top plastic cover and the crank gear marks are on either side of pointer on oil pump housing, the gears will not fight you on a 2005. CVVT turbo engines for the first 3 years had springs that would fight you if you don't go past and then back engine up to mark alignment position. 2002 and later do not have the springs so don't fret that.
USE PAINT OR WHITE-OUT AND PLACE YOUR OWN MARKS! If you do this then your confidence will be far greater. You will know if YOUR marks are aligned when you're done. The factory marks on cams are often not perfectly aligned and when you're done you will have doubts. "hmmm, was that mark 1/2 tooth to left or right of that pointer notch when I started?"
When finished but before cover or serp belt is fitted, turn engine two revs and bring up the marks against notches and re-check. Then re-check tension. Often the belt will not have the same tension all way round and when you turn engine and equalize tension on belt the auto tensioner pointer will slip back from where you left it. Adjust if needed.

Post by **chrism** » 06 Apr 2011, 06:59

Jimmy,

Thanks for the pointers. I've ordered the orig Volvo kit (belt, tensioner, idler) from FCP and will go at it this weekend. Hopefully the water pump is still in good shape. I'd hate to have to run to the dealer on Saturday and pay the big bucks for a pump. I'm not sure if any of the aftermarket companies are producing pumps of adequate quality. With a pump that runs integral with the timing system, it's no place to be messing around with cheap junk.

bdragomir · Post by **bdragomir** » 08 Apr 2011, 19:31

get a cam lock and you don't have to care for the marks. You'll ave to take out the serpentine belt to get the timing belt out once you put the new timing belt in put the serpentine back and that will take care of holding your third timing mark. It took me 4 hours the first time and changed the iflr pulley and tensioneras well.
Not hard but needs a bit of "commitment"

Good luck!

On P2 models you do not remove SERP belt to access the timingbelt. True for RN engines1999 and on