Like a few others have said, its been done just look around. Nobody has questioned on weather its been done, just the logic of bothering to do it. By the time you are done you'll end up with what's essentially a T5 anyway, except for a lot more $. Its not B16, frankly its not built as well. Im sure anybody here would be happy to help you either way....caz2773 wrote:has anybody ever tried to build an na motor to get boosted or does everybody just quote other people that think of it nad then kill the idea without trying thanks blackburn for the info ill look into the other motor and see what i gather from that
lpt on a 96 na motor
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boosted5cyl
- Posts: 1100
- Joined: 29 January 2010
- Year and Model: '98 V70 T5, '99 S80
- Location: St. Paul, MN
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Re: lpt on a 96 na motor
'04 XC90 2.5T AWD (Angus) 134K.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
- kcodyjr
- Posts: 1236
- Joined: 31 January 2010
- Year and Model: 2006 S60 2.5T AWD
- Location: Massachusetts, USA
- Has thanked: 17 times
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Do keep us posted; the reality is, it's a terribly bad idea, until someone figures out how to make it work right.
On the face of it, the conversion (I've heard it called Frankenstein) could yield more output than any of them; at 10.5:1 it'll have more grunt off the line than a 2.3T or 2.4T. Problem is, it'll tend to knock the moment you tap the gas, which is why they lower the compression for turbos in the first place.
To have any reasonable chance of success, then in addition to the bottom end rebuild and sodium cooled valves, you'll need to address the knocking in some other way. I'd suggest looking into:
* excessively large intercooler - you'll need to reduce the charge temperature as much as possible to reduce knocking.
* choose your turbo very carefully; a 13G might spool up so fast it not only bends rods, but puts demands on the intercooler that cannot be met at 2mph, leading to constant detonation upper cylinder failure. I'm thinking 15T for a stock exhaust, and at least an 18T if you go for a 3" turbo-back exhaust. The idea is to make sure boost doesn't arrive too early.
* water injection. Normally, when timing changes aren't enough, the engine will start dumping extra fuel into the cylinder to prevent detonation, literally by keeping the air wet. Water is more effective for this purpose, and if it's metered just right, will flash to steam during combustion - contributing additional power output to the bottom half of the power stroke. You get the added bonus of your pistons and valves being steam-cleaned cleaned as you drive.
Nevermind methanol, it doesn't have the thermal properties of water, it might as well be gasoline as far as the physics are concerned. This is a technique used by hippies to make themselves feel smug about burning less fossil fuel, and perhaps also by those who can get methanol way cheaper than they can get gasoline.
ABOVE ALL: You will need a totally custom programmed ECU, and you will need some kind of instrumentation to tell you whether you're about to explode your experimental engine on your first test drive.
You are looking deep into hacker territory, and for that, I salute you; but do know you're walking where angels, and veteran engine builders, have feared to tread.
On the face of it, the conversion (I've heard it called Frankenstein) could yield more output than any of them; at 10.5:1 it'll have more grunt off the line than a 2.3T or 2.4T. Problem is, it'll tend to knock the moment you tap the gas, which is why they lower the compression for turbos in the first place.
To have any reasonable chance of success, then in addition to the bottom end rebuild and sodium cooled valves, you'll need to address the knocking in some other way. I'd suggest looking into:
* excessively large intercooler - you'll need to reduce the charge temperature as much as possible to reduce knocking.
* choose your turbo very carefully; a 13G might spool up so fast it not only bends rods, but puts demands on the intercooler that cannot be met at 2mph, leading to constant detonation upper cylinder failure. I'm thinking 15T for a stock exhaust, and at least an 18T if you go for a 3" turbo-back exhaust. The idea is to make sure boost doesn't arrive too early.
* water injection. Normally, when timing changes aren't enough, the engine will start dumping extra fuel into the cylinder to prevent detonation, literally by keeping the air wet. Water is more effective for this purpose, and if it's metered just right, will flash to steam during combustion - contributing additional power output to the bottom half of the power stroke. You get the added bonus of your pistons and valves being steam-cleaned cleaned as you drive.
Nevermind methanol, it doesn't have the thermal properties of water, it might as well be gasoline as far as the physics are concerned. This is a technique used by hippies to make themselves feel smug about burning less fossil fuel, and perhaps also by those who can get methanol way cheaper than they can get gasoline.
ABOVE ALL: You will need a totally custom programmed ECU, and you will need some kind of instrumentation to tell you whether you're about to explode your experimental engine on your first test drive.
You are looking deep into hacker territory, and for that, I salute you; but do know you're walking where angels, and veteran engine builders, have feared to tread.
2012 C70 T5 Platinum, ember black on cranberry leather
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
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linuxsuperuser
- Posts: 13
- Joined: 25 December 2008
- Year and Model: S70 NA 1998
- Location:
I own a 2.4NA 98 s70 and have felt the need to turbo more then once; We all feel your pain.
I Do not think it is a bad idea, it just that it's in uncharted territory, your build will be expensive, will feature many surprises both good and bad.
Now dude, Your probably not gonna get more then 200 whp safely out of the 2.4NA w/LPT without bending a rod. The Compression is simply too high, you can forget about any low end boost, and the exhaust will need to be modified to reduce backpressure. Basically what kcodyjr said. (also To control your new turbo look into megasquirt custom ECUs, cheap DIY if you can solder.)
To get the compression down and because the CR is a function of the (Displacement Vol. + Clearance Vol) / Clearance Volume, the only way to change this is by swapping the pistons plus Rods with ones that are physically shorter, leaving more space in the combustion chamber at the top of each stroke.
For some Good Further Reading
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=179112
http://www.tyresmoke.net/forum/tuning-t ... o-far.html
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... ch102.html
Please Keep us Posted,
I Hope others will Follow if you are Successful
I Do not think it is a bad idea, it just that it's in uncharted territory, your build will be expensive, will feature many surprises both good and bad.
Now dude, Your probably not gonna get more then 200 whp safely out of the 2.4NA w/LPT without bending a rod. The Compression is simply too high, you can forget about any low end boost, and the exhaust will need to be modified to reduce backpressure. Basically what kcodyjr said. (also To control your new turbo look into megasquirt custom ECUs, cheap DIY if you can solder.)
To get the compression down and because the CR is a function of the (Displacement Vol. + Clearance Vol) / Clearance Volume, the only way to change this is by swapping the pistons plus Rods with ones that are physically shorter, leaving more space in the combustion chamber at the top of each stroke.
For some Good Further Reading
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=179112
http://www.tyresmoke.net/forum/tuning-t ... o-far.html
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... ch102.html
Please Keep us Posted,
I Hope others will Follow if you are Successful
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