850 oil pressure issues, no oil in valvetrain

saltydog · Post by **saltydog** » 21 Dec 2005, 04:41

don't just go by what I say as I've never done the job myself, just been a witness (I have an aversion to lying on my back under a car all day - much easier watching a guy do it on a hoist). The only tricky part that I'm aware of is manouvering the pan out of the way i.e., the pick up is located below the windage tray inside the pan, so you've got to wiggile the pan out without bending the pick up tube. Like I said, take your time & you should be ok. There is no gasket for the oil pan. Good luck - hell of a way to spend Christmas, mind you.

GregO · Post by **GregO** » 21 Dec 2005, 09:47

Thanks again. Called the dealer to check on the parts, and the guy told me they sell the whole shootin match as a kit because it's so common an issue with these cars. The oil pickup o-ring kit is approx $26, no sweat, and I feel lucky to perhaps get off that cheap (not including my time on a cold garage floor). The Volvo gasket sealant costs more than the kit, but it sounds like it's the best stuff. So for about 60 bucks, I may have a drivable Volvo again to drive to Grandma's for Christmas. Thanks again for all the advice. I'm sure I'll be back for more!
Thanks to all,
Greg

GregO · Post by **GregO** » 27 Dec 2005, 20:19

Here's an update for anyone who cares. Got the oil pan off. Was much tougher than I expected. The two metal power steering lines that run underneath the left (driver's) side of the oil pan were a major obstacle. I removed the brackets at both ends of the subframe, but it didn't help much. The pan was catching on these and wedging on the engine mount and/or subframe on the other end. My car doesn't have an oil cooler, but I had to remove the cover on the end of the pan where the cooler would normally bolt up. Still Very tight. I had a friend pull the PS lnes toward the driver's sde of the vehicle as far as he could, stll had to work the pan off past them, and then still had to pry it past the subframe on the passenger side. Very concerned about it going back on.
Anyway, it's off. I see some sludge in there, and a couple bits in the pickup screen. O-rings are all in tact and seem okay by looking at them. I hope this doesn't mean they're okay and I have bigger problems. How best to clean the pan? I can't see inside all the windage tray compartments to know if they are sludged. Is it okay to use pressure to wash it out? Maybe engine degreaser and a power washer, then dry it with compressed air? Brake cleaner or carb cleaner? Anything I should do to the bottom of the block other than clean the mating surface?
Also, I seem to have several more O-rings in the dealer kit than I see on the car. Anyone have links to diagrams or any other help?
Thanks for any help or advice.
Greg

saltydog · Post by **saltydog** » 28 Dec 2005, 07:45

This is why I never attempt this stuff on the floor during the holidays - I hope that I didn't talk you into doing this.....I'll feel awful. Brake clean will work wonders once you scoop out the sludge & it eveaporates pretty quick, but keep it away from the crank, as it will break down the oil on the bearings & you'll have what amounts to a dry start up when it's all back together. The gasket kit is universal (turbo, n/a, engine options, etc) so you'll have spares...don't be discouraged if the seals look ok, I understand that they can deform in use. By the time you read this, I would imagine you're back together - if your problem's still there, better put a gauge on it to check the pressure.

GregO · Post by **GregO** » 28 Dec 2005, 08:41

Thanks, no worries. I was going to try it anyway, and I appreciate the advice. My only concern now is getting the pan back on cleanly and without losing the o-rings that sit on the underside of the block and disappear from view once the pan is close.
It's amazing how much more you find when you spend some time under the car. I think I have at least one engine mount to replace, there is oil everywhere, so I am eager to see if it was all coming from the cap above, or if there are other issues. The pan was dry, but there is a light wet coating under the tranny and further back on the steering rack etc. I hope it's just been blowing around. I know the cap has been leaking for the time I've owned the car. I've spent days on this and other forums, and have been convinced to remove the flame trap, which I did. And I included a new oil cap seal with the o-ring kit from the dealer, so we'll see if that cures it.
I think I am going to let a shop do my timing belt, though. Seems pretty tight in there for a first timer to try it.
I'll report back once (if?) I get the pan back on and bolted up. Perhaps my experience will help the next guy - or deter him from- doing the job himself. It's actually pretty easy aside from the tight squeezes getting the pan on and off. Otherwise, it seems a piece of cake job. Just oily, on your back, cold garage floor, etc etc.
Thanks for the help, and it's all welcomed.
Greg

White850Turbo · Post by **White850Turbo** » 28 Dec 2005, 08:53

GregO wrote:Anyone have links to diagrams or any other help?

Ask and you shall receive

.

Diagram

GregO · Post by **GregO** » 28 Dec 2005, 10:43

Sean, thanks! the diagram is awesome, and will be a lot of help. no doubt by day's end the print I just made will be covered with grease and oil. Now, who wants to come and help get this thing back together? Hello? Hello?
Thanks nonetheless for all the help. Great site and great advice.
Greg

GregO · Post by **GregO** » 28 Dec 2005, 22:35

Got the oil pan back on today. job went better than I was exoecting, for two reasons. One, the pan was clean as a whistle, so much better to handle than when coming off. Also, I zip-tied those power steering lines as far to the driver's side as possible, which made it easier to get the pan past them. I inserted the passenger side of the pan up and into its spot, then was just able to get the driver's side past those PS lines and up to the bottom of the engine. The pan will hang there about two inches below the engine, which allowed me to see that one of the two O-rings that fit onto the engine above the pan, passenger side, had fallen, but I was able to reach through the wheelwell and carefully place it back up into its recess. Then the pan was lifted and bolts inserted, and it's "job done". Except for the dipstick tube, sensor, filter etc etc. But that's all gravy now that the pan is on.
Anyone who wants to attempt this job can take heart in my completing it. This forum was a bunch of help, and if I can do this repair so can anyone else.
Thanks to all, and I'll update once I start the engine and hopefully have oil pressure again. If I don't have oil pressure, perhaps I'll have a parts car for sale...
Greg

GregO · Post by **GregO** » 29 Dec 2005, 21:59

Here's the good news and the bad news. no leaks, everything is tight and no leftover pieces. But, also still no oil getting to the valvetrain. Now what? Is the oil pump the most likely culprit? I'll do some research in this forum on that possibility. Any other suggestions are welcomed as always.
Thanks! Greg

White850Turbo · Post by **White850Turbo** » 30 Dec 2005, 03:28

GregO wrote:Here's the good news and the bad news. no leaks, everything is tight and no leftover pieces. But, also still no oil getting to the valvetrain. Now what? Is the oil pump the most likely culprit? I'll do some research in this forum on that possibility. Any other suggestions are welcomed as always.
Thanks! Greg

Oil pumps are pretty solid on these cars and it is not common for them to have problems, but it certainly is a possible culprit.