2001 V70 2.4T Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Cleaning...

Post by **T5AUS** » 07 Nov 2010, 22:16

oooooooops, no, you are right, should have been $22.00

carboncow · Post by **carboncow** » 07 Nov 2010, 23:52

Thank goodness...I was racking my brain to what could cost that much in a auto store unless they learned to put sunshine in a bottle...even with the US to Aus rate exchange!

jruberto · Post by **jruberto** » 19 May 2011, 15:01

Just a quick followup on removing the MAF from the hose.. You just gotta yank it off of there, don't be gentle. It's hard to get leverage, and heating up the hose a little bit helps. Great advice from another thread: "You just gotta get mad and pull it off."

On mine, only a couple years old, cleaning seemed to help for a little while but didn't provide any long term improvement. There was an internal failure that somehow wasn't throwing a trouble code. Replacement MAF fixed ALL of my MANY engine problems (and here I was beating up my dealer trying to get them to replace my ETM for free -- sorry guys.)

This is definitely one to do yourself -- dealer quote to replace it was $650. I got a pretty good deal on the part for $250, you can find them online for $330 (eesh, i think I just saw one over on FCP Groton website for $125?!?!?). It's a 10 minute job (once you get the thing off the hose).

BobbyC · Post by **BobbyC** » 21 May 2011, 22:57

AutoPartsDeal.com sells new MAF assemblies for $31.14 (REPV316708) which, if you cross reference that part, cross references to the proper Bosch part number. Just Google that part number, and you will see the same MAF is used on several Volvo models and engines, in fact.

I just replaced mine today, and the part looks absolutely identical to the Bosch unit, and worked exactly as the Bosch (that's not a good thing in my case because I was hoping it was the MAF and not the ETM causing my surging/hesitation).

No need to remove the entire assembly, though. Just use the tamper-proof Torx, or take a small screwdriver inserted into the Torx head to break off the center part, and then you don't NEED the tamper-proof Torx driver. It breaks right off easily BTW. Then just replace the sensor itself. Takes under 5 minutes total to swap out MAFs.

If you wish to replace the entire assembly, however, use a heat gun to warm the MAF assembly plastic outlet pipe, and it comes off quite easily (almost impossible cold, though).

Bob

carboncow · Post by **carboncow** » 21 May 2011, 23:19

Major score...I'm ordering one now for a backup...although my last cleaning was 4 months ago w/o any codes since.

jruberto · Post by **jruberto** » 22 May 2011, 19:47

BobbyC wrote:AutoPartsDeal.com sells new MAF assemblies for $31.14 (REPV316708) which, if you cross reference that part, cross references to the proper Bosch part number. Just Google that part number, and you will see the same MAF is used on several Volvo models and engines, in fact.

Bob, that is awesome. For that price, I'll probably grab a couple just to keep them on hand.

It is also easy to remove the security torx screws with pliers/vise grips, if you have the MAF off there's enough clearance to get a wrench around it. I took my broken one and disassembled it just to see what's going on in there -- I would definitely recommend just swapping out the assembly rather than paying so much to replace the whole part. Easy fix.

Man... From $650 to $31.

BobbyC · Post by **BobbyC** » 23 May 2011, 21:08

$650 is outrageous beyond belief!

You can buy a GOOD laptop or LCD TV for $650 for heaven's sake!

Sometimes, you just have to wonder what those guys are smoking.

It almost makes the $780 the dealer wanted for a rebuilt OEM alternator seem reasonable (If I hadn't bought a reman from Auto Parts Warehouse for $150). I am equally happy w/ the O'Reily rebuilt front axles ($60 each). I may be a cheapskate, but so far no gripes on any after-market or non-Volvo reman stuff.

orangefob7 · Post by **orangefob7** » 05 Jun 2011, 08:42

I recently tried cleaning my MAF (with the CRC spray) after an error P1171 came up on my 2001 V70 T5. There was some build-up on the sensor and the spray took it right off. I also replaced the air filter and cleaned the filter box assembly.

The CEL disappeared and the car felt smoother. I also had noticed the slight surging (800-1100 RPM when sitting idle) had disappeared. A week and a half later (and ~100 miles), the CEL returned with P1171. Does anybody have thoughts on the next step?

Replace MAF
Replace front O2 sensor
Check (thouroughly) for vacuum leaks

If I need to replace the MAF, does anybody have any comments against using the generic (REPV316708) (and cheap -$31.14!) part above? I'm a little hesitant considering the price difference, and I've usually been pretty regular about buying Bosch replacements when things come up.

Thanks in advance!
David

nicopag · Post by **nicopag** » 17 Aug 2011, 11:24

Hi everybody! Do I need to disconnect the negative connector of the battery to clean the MAF?
Really Thanks

carboncow · Post by **carboncow** » 17 Aug 2011, 11:28

It never hurts but I wouldn't. For example disconnecting the battery made my wives sunroof stop working. I'm sure there is a sunroof module reset procedure but we just reset the code with the Vida DiCE as easily.

Point being I've found these cars electrical systems to be touchy and the less I take the battery offline the better. Maybe because our cars are older.

The MAF doesn't carry enough voltage to be a concern...it's just sending a little signal.

2001 V70 2.4T Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Cleaning...

Re: 2001 V70 2.4T Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Cleaning...