Rough Idle then no start

Squat2011 · Post by **Squat2011** » 25 May 2011, 23:49

Hi guys I have a problem that I need help with! I am new to this forum and it is my wife's 1995 Volvo 850 that I am having troubles with. I'll start with a little back history..

The car has about 155,000 miles on it, ran good, and started quick up until a couple months ago. Then the car started to idle kind of rough and run really rich. It would take several cranks of the starter before it would finally turn over. The whole car felt like it was almost shaking. My wife had problems with it periodically not starting and she would be stuck in parking lots for a half hour or so with it just cranking but no start until it would finally turn over. Now the other day when she came out from shopping the car wouldn't even turn over. No crank, no anything. The dash lights and the headlights will all turn on when you turn the key but nothing else.

I took my car down there and attempted to jump it with no success. Towed the car home and checked the fuses and battery connections. All fine.

Here is a list of new parts that have been replaced on the car in the the past six months:
Cap & Rotor
Spark plugs & wires
Throttle position sensor (code came up for it when it was idling rough)
Battery
Flame Trap
Starter

That is all electrical-wise that has been replaced. I guess what I need is a place to start being that I am not very familiar with Volvos. Any help would be very much appreciated you guys seem to be well versed with Volvo problems. If there is any other info you need feel free to ask!

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 26 May 2011, 00:23

I would check out your coil. A similar thing happened on my 97 850R. The car just stalled out as I was pulling into the parking lot. It then took 5 cranks or more to start until it just died. After a tune up the car started but ran very rough. It wasn't until I replaced the coil that the car ran good again. Maybe it will fix your troubles.

Btw the "no crank" symptom happened on my old Civic too (right after a tune up). Also ended up being a coil. I guess I've just had bad luck with coils

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 26 May 2011, 04:08

Welcome to MVS,

Is your check engine light on? If so have you read the codes?

On a '95 reading codes is real easy, the code reader came with the car. If you have not read codes before here is how it is done:

http://volvospeed.com/CheckEngine.php

Check both ports A-2 and A-6 and post back what you find.

...Lee

Squat2011 · Post by **Squat2011** » 26 May 2011, 06:35

Thanks guys I will check the codes today and see what I come up with!

Srini850? Pardon my ignorance but I don't know much about volvos. Where is the ignition coil located and is there a way to test it?

And I left out that the ignition switch was also just recently changed. I don't know if that matters but I thought I would include it.

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 26 May 2011, 13:07

The coil is located on the driver's side of the car right near the shock. It will have a wire running from it to the middle of the distributor cap. Here is a link to my old post: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 7&start=14

Go to the second to last post and you will see a picture of my messy engine bay that I took when testing the coil. The red box looking thing (closest to you) is my coil. Note: I have an MSD coil installed with a spark plug wire for testing. Yours should look like this if you've got OEM (https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/a ... 601012.jpg).

Definitely check out the codes and post back up. It might not even be your coil.

falconbrother · Post by **falconbrother** » 26 May 2011, 13:40

I was just wondering if you have considered dirty or bad fuel injectors?

Has to be fuel/air or spark. If you know that the spark is reliable then it may be fuel system. Get a 20 dollar fuel pressure gauge at harbor Freight to rule out everything up to the fuel rail. If you have, and are maintaining good pressure at the rail then that narrows it down. Getting to the injectors is super easy on these cars and takes like three minutes.

If it's running rich it sounds to me like a problem with a sensor. MAF? EGR? If it's really rich and running like crap I would think you be getting OBD codes.

Catalytic converter? If it's the original converter it may be time to get it replaced. But, you should be getting a code unless the ECM is bad.

Hows your compression? Probably not an issue but, may be worth looking at. If you know the service history of your car you can better judge whether this needs to be checked or is a risk.

I had this issue on a Chevrolet truck. I replaced all kinds of electrical parts and never got consistent codes. Even took it to the dealer, and they couldn't fix it. I finally replaced the computer and it ran like a new one. If all else fails it could be the computer. But, in my book the symptoms are inconsistent codes and inability for sensors to pass the internal test when the car is running. You should be getting check engine codes if there is a problem with the ECM.

I had a SAAB 900S with similar issues and it turned out to be corrosion on a ground strap connection.

Squat2011 · Post by **Squat2011** » 26 May 2011, 14:26

Ok so port A2 read 1-1-1 (no faults)

While trying to check port A6 (ignition system) the battery went completely dead due to sitting for a week and repeatedly turning the key on and off. So I have the charger hooked up to it now on a 12 amp fast charge and will check A6 as soon as I can. Any ideas in the meantime?

Squat2011 · Post by **Squat2011** » 26 May 2011, 14:30

Thank you for the suggestions falconbrother I will look into that. If port A2 (fuel systems) came back with no faults should I still be considering this?

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 26 May 2011, 18:45

+1 on checking the fuel.

Another test you can do is depress the schrader valve on the drivers side of the engine. You should see it when you remove the cover that protects the throttle body area. Turn the key to Position II for about 10-15 seconds then shut it off. Then take the cap of the valve and depress it. If it shoots out fuel you know have good fuel pressure and you can probably rule out your pump or relay. A very helpful member told me this when I had troubles.

This doesn't rule out everything falconbrother said though. It's just another test.

Squat2011 · Post by **Squat2011** » 26 May 2011, 21:19

Ok so new problem now..

I checked all the codes and got a 1-1-1 (no fault) for A2 (fuel system)

Also, Port A1 (transmission) gave a code 2-1-3 (throttle position sensor signal too high) I just replaced this also

However, when I go to check the A6 port it doesn't work. I even cleared all the codes from the other ports as it said to do but when I put the jumper in A6 and push the button for 1 second I get nothing back? Why would this be? Any ideas? Battery is fully charged.