Just wondering what kind of tire sidewall height you had - I'm not sure of what will fit without rubbing. I know I've heard people on VS say they clear 225's and even 235's with spacers and minimal rubbing.
I'm not sure how much work it is to install them on these cars (i paid for all my suspension parts to be put it), but I've installed swaybars on other cars and it was much easier than most shocks or struts.
Springs and Struts - Time to buy... Koni, Bilstein, Eibach
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Springs and Struts - Time to buy... Koni, Bilstein, Eibach
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ojdorson
- Posts: 322
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IPD has instructions in PDF format. The steering rack has to be unbolted and the subframe has to be dropped.
When my tires are done, I'll look at 225's and see if they'll work. I'd like more rubber, for sure.
When my tires are done, I'll look at 225's and see if they'll work. I'd like more rubber, for sure.
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ojdorson
- Posts: 322
- Joined: 14 June 2010
- Year and Model: 850R, 1996
- Location: Chicago, IL
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Another thought... Do I NEED to replace the springs? Several people have told me that I "probably should" with nearly 200K, but do I have to? If not, I'll probably just get Koni's and leave stock springs for now.
If I really have to do springs, then it might have to be Bilstein TC and Eibach and then I'll save up for the IPD swaybar.
Boy... I just don't want to have to do this twice!
If I really have to do springs, then it might have to be Bilstein TC and Eibach and then I'll save up for the IPD swaybar.
Boy... I just don't want to have to do this twice!
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JRL
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ANY Bilstein raises the car UP about 1/2" so if you leave stock springs and add Bilsteins what you have is an off roader!
(Trust me on this)
I suggest spending the money on the Koni Sports, leave the springs in for now
Go with 215/45/17 Conti DWS or DWs and see what you wind up with.
225s will fit depending on which type wheel you use (offset), it's close in there,
Even at 200K your springs MAY be OK unless you drive in a salt area, then they could be very weak. At that point I suggest replacing them...just because!
Here's a side view, (ignore the white dots, don't ask...)
Again
H&R springs Koni Yellows and 215/45/17s on Conti DWS and this one rides quite nice and handles VERY well
(It also has 145K miles)
Volvo S60 AWD THOR wheels. They have such a large offset (48mm) I actually needed 10mm spacers to fill the wheel wells

(Trust me on this)
I suggest spending the money on the Koni Sports, leave the springs in for now
Go with 215/45/17 Conti DWS or DWs and see what you wind up with.
225s will fit depending on which type wheel you use (offset), it's close in there,
Even at 200K your springs MAY be OK unless you drive in a salt area, then they could be very weak. At that point I suggest replacing them...just because!
Here's a side view, (ignore the white dots, don't ask...)
Again
H&R springs Koni Yellows and 215/45/17s on Conti DWS and this one rides quite nice and handles VERY well
(It also has 145K miles)
Volvo S60 AWD THOR wheels. They have such a large offset (48mm) I actually needed 10mm spacers to fill the wheel wells

Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
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ojdorson
- Posts: 322
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- Year and Model: 850R, 1996
- Location: Chicago, IL
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The car came from Memphis 1.5 years ago, but lives in Chicago now.
I have to weigh some things... I just figured out the source of a noise that's been bugging me for a while - engine mounts. At least, I'm pretty sure it's the lower engine mount on the passenger side as the noise completely stops when I push the engine up and towards the driver's side. It would be smart to replace the upper torque mount and the trans torque mounts, too, right? So, new question... to Poly or NOT to Poly...
I have to weigh some things... I just figured out the source of a noise that's been bugging me for a while - engine mounts. At least, I'm pretty sure it's the lower engine mount on the passenger side as the noise completely stops when I push the engine up and towards the driver's side. It would be smart to replace the upper torque mount and the trans torque mounts, too, right? So, new question... to Poly or NOT to Poly...
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
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You can peel back the fender liner and instantly tell if the lower engine mount is collapsed. And poly =
. My opinion, anyway.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
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ojdorson
- Posts: 322
- Joined: 14 June 2010
- Year and Model: 850R, 1996
- Location: Chicago, IL
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If I put on Koni Yellows in the front, the Bilstein TC rears I already have and Eibach springs, will the ride be all sorts of caca-loopus? Or will this combination work just fine until I see a sale on Koni's for the rear?
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JRL
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You're not absorbing what's been said to you... are you?
BILSTEINS RAISE THE CAR UUUUUPPPPP!
You would have a huge front rake on a car that already has a front slope set
You could adjust the front Konis to more or less come close to matching the rears but they are a different shock
Bilsteins are gas filled, Konis are not, Bilsteins are MUCH choppier, even TCs, (plus the above ride height issue)
BILSTEINS RAISE THE CAR UUUUUPPPPP!
You would have a huge front rake on a car that already has a front slope set
You could adjust the front Konis to more or less come close to matching the rears but they are a different shock
Bilsteins are gas filled, Konis are not, Bilsteins are MUCH choppier, even TCs, (plus the above ride height issue)
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
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ojdorson
- Posts: 322
- Joined: 14 June 2010
- Year and Model: 850R, 1996
- Location: Chicago, IL
- Been thanked: 3 times
Of coure I'm listening and I'm asking questions intended to help me learn and understand. I certainly appreciate all the experience and advice around here and I don't mind asking a "dumb" question now and then because the answer might help someone who is afraid to ask.JRL wrote:You're not absorbing what's been said to you... are you?
BILSTEINS RAISE THE CAR UUUUUPPPPP!
You would have a huge front rake on a car that already has a front slope set
You could adjust the front Konis to more or less come close to matching the rears but they are a different shock
Bilsteins are gas filled, Konis are not, Bilsteins are MUCH choppier, even TCs, (plus the above ride height issue)
At the moment, my rear is much lower than the front and having a slope downwards to the front wouldn't bother me a whole lot. Your comment about the different type of damping (gas vs what in the koni's) is helpful, though. heck, over on VS, it seems like people mix Koni fronts and Bilstein rears on purpose!
Here are my thoughts, based on what's been said.
IF I use Bilstein TC, Im going to have to get the Eibach springs now as the car will sit unattractively high without them.
IF I use Koni Adjustables, I can't use the nearly-new Bilstein TC rears I got for almost free. I will need to buy fronts and rears.
The Koni yellows are nearly the same price as the FSD. The FSD should provide both a fantastic ride and handling but I won't be able to adjust them firmer or softer.
If I use Koni's, I don't *have* to get the Eibach springs, but I probably should. So, it seems like the best thing would be to get the Eibach/Koni kit at the best price I can and just have the wallet hurt for a little while.
What kind of lifespan can I expect from the Knoi's?
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