I have a 93 850GLT with 141,000 miles on it that I bought used 10 months ago and it has a few problems.
First, the car sounds like it's going to fall apart every time you hit the slightest bump. Just about all the noise is coming from the front wheels and I suspect that the "spring hats" (rubber isolators that go on top of the springs) are shot, allowing the spring to bump up and down against the strut tower. To resolve this problem, I plan to replace struts, strut mounts and spring hats.
Second, I get a roaring sound from both sides when I'm turning at low speeds. I suspect wheel bearings are worn out and I know they're permanently mounted in hubs and that you have to replace the hubs to correct this problem. I plan to replace both front hubs while I have it torn apart.
Before I start buying parts though I would really appreciate a sanity check from the wise ones here on the board.
1) Based on my description of the problems, do you think my diagnosis is probably accurate and are there any other parts I should consider replacing while I have it torn apart? tie rod ends? sway bar connectors? ball joints? etc.
2) It seems that FCP Groton has the best prices and OEM or name brand parts so I plan to buy most of my stuff there. But Gabriel does make a strut for the 93 850 that's about half the price of the OEM Sachs strut. Any reason I shouldn't save about $50 a strut by going with the Gabriel struts?
Thank you in advance for any advice you can offer.
93 850 - Struts, Front Suspension Questions
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pfeener
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Your spring seats or "spring hats" are probably broken. I would replace the spring seats and the struts. The mounts are usually OK. The other parts to check:
1. Sway bar links - test with channel lock pliers; squeeze the joint, if it moves it's bad
2. ball joints and control arm bushings; jack up the car from the subframe, put a pry bar between the control arm and the spindle. Should be no play in the ball joint
3. tie rod ends; wiggle the wheel at the 9 & 3 position
With struts you usually get what you pay for. The other difference is in ride stiffness.
1. Sway bar links - test with channel lock pliers; squeeze the joint, if it moves it's bad
2. ball joints and control arm bushings; jack up the car from the subframe, put a pry bar between the control arm and the spindle. Should be no play in the ball joint
3. tie rod ends; wiggle the wheel at the 9 & 3 position
With struts you usually get what you pay for. The other difference is in ride stiffness.
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MadeInJapan
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Can also test the ball joints by trying to move the tire at the 12:00 and 6:00 position.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
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White850Turbo
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Your car will handle like a boat and the struts will probably need to be replaced again within 50k miles.utvol1984 wrote:I have a 93 850GLT with 141,000 miles on it that I Any reason I shouldn't save about $50 a strut by going with the Gabriel struts?
But yeah, your diagnosis sounds right to me.
-Sean
1995 850 Turbo (Extensively Modded)
1998 S70 T5 (Almost Stock)
1995 850 Turbo (Extensively Modded)
1998 S70 T5 (Almost Stock)
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