93 Volvo 850 bad start in cold weather

[findude]

there's a noise (some kind of buzz possibly from a relay) from somewhere behind the dashboard. Whenever I hear it I know the engine will then start.

Mine makes the buzzing sound for a few seconds, but then the buzzing stops. The car cranks fine but will not start, though it occasionally catches and runs very roughly for a few seconds. I tried jumping the relay sockets that correspond to 15 and 87 with a paper click. When I turn the key to the number II position, the same buzzing starts and continues buzzing. While this is different than what I get with the relay in place, the car still will not start.

I'm looking for the quickest/cheapest fix here as I am simply trying to sell the car. Thanks.

[Johnny78Blaze]

Relay #103 happens to be the Fuel Injection Relay and if you can't be bothered with soldering and the tinkering around of that nature...........I've found the relay at a relatively low price compared to Volvo or various parts stores, etc.

Try partstrain.com I picked one up for $25 plus $5 S&H. Others wanted $50+

[findude]

Thanks for the follow up. I've actually sold this car. FWIW, the actual problem turned out to be that the engine was flooded with gasoline (by a potential buyer who enthusiastically pumped the gas pedal before turning the key).

[Johnny78Blaze]

Correction, and I apologize as I'm finding out the hard way. The #103 is the fuel pump relay and not the fuel injection relay. I had already gone ahead and ordered it for a very decent price, only to find out that I purchased the wrong one. Generally speaking though the fuel pump relay will run you about $50. Sorry about that folks. Now to ship this bad boy back and get the right one, lol.

[purenergy]

Is there an easy way to bench test #103 relay? I'm having a fuel flow problem and have ruled out the pump. I want to test the relay to see if that's giving me problems. I just don't want to spend $50 on a new part if I don't neet it. Does anybody know how the contacts are configured? Thanks.

--Marc

[Ozark Lee]

31 and 31b are the coil side and 15 and 87 are the contact side.

My test is to just jumper the socket positions associated with pins 15 and 87 with a paper clip and see if the problem goes away. If the problem is cured with the jumper then the relay is bad. You can normally fix it for a couple of bucks worth of Radio Shack parts if you know how to solder.

...Lee

[Johnny78Blaze]

Cleaning my MAF on occasion usually helps lol

Lee I posted something last night about my 850 diving while braking. Was hoping you might be able to comment on it. Thanks, man.

[Johnny78Blaze]

Problem was neither. Little bit of MAF spray and I was good to go lol.

[mrjacobrussell]

I diagnosed ours 2000 v70 xc se with 198k on it, by tapping on the top of the relay I could hear and feel the coil inside disengage. Eventually the car would stall.

Unfortunately, I had the codes for MAF and TB so I replaced the MAF with a OEM from amazon and scored a XEmodex from ebay. After swapping them, the codes did not return, but the car continued to die without warning. That's when I dug deeper into the stalling issue and learned about the \the fuel pump relay failures.