Come on look for yourself. We can't spoon feed you or give you the answers to want to hear.v70xc wrote:That is a great thought....
Could you suggest make, model, place to purchase and possible price?
I am Canadian BTW, so if you know of anywhere in Canadian stores that you might suggest, that would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
I was wishing to also hear of a simple way to remove the tank without dropping the suspension
XC70 Gas tank removal
XC70 Gas tank removal
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v70xc
- Posts: 75
- Joined: 10 November 2010
- Year and Model: V70XC AWD Turbo 1998
- Location: Northern Ontario
Wow
I got a camera but still not able to find the leak even while doing a smoke test. If anyone has pics to help in showing all that needs to be removed, that could help
Anyone able to guess how many hours should be charged by a good mechanic? Pls thanks
I got a camera but still not able to find the leak even while doing a smoke test. If anyone has pics to help in showing all that needs to be removed, that could help
Anyone able to guess how many hours should be charged by a good mechanic? Pls thanks
1998 V70XC AWD Turbo
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jimmy57
- Posts: 6694
- Joined: 12 November 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
- Location: Ponder Texas
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 320 times
You do not need to drop the whole suspension. IT is still a lot of work but less so that dropping the whole thing.
Remove the rear side load floor pieces. flip up the forward load floor section and pull the carpet back at left and right sides to reveal the two 10mm head bolts that hold the forward floor in place. Remove the forward floor. remove the nuts holding the access cover and the cover. Undo tape around the rubber pass through pieces and unplug the white wires from the docked connectors taking note of which white wires plug into which connector. Undo the grey connector with the red and black wires. push those wires down under car thru opening. (If you want to pressurize system and look for leaks, delay all this until later, it does not have to be done now and if you find the leak and the repair doesn't require full tank removal, this may not need to be done).
Remove the trailing arms with forward brackets on both sides. The forward bracket for these blocks tanks from dropping and they are still in the was and only two bolts hold these to the control arm and they do not affect alignment.
Disconnect driveshaft at rear, mark it to the flange just in case it has balancing bolts. If the bolts are different lengths as noted by them sticking through flange on back side different amounts then you will need to keep bolts in order.
remove the bolt holding VC hosusing up. Remove nut from the flange and then mark the flange to the VC shaft so it can go back where found. Remove the housing and then mark and remove VC from rear end flange. Again this needs to go back where found. On Gen 1 AWD's these pieces are indexed for least lateral and radial throw and bolted up to achieve least runout.
Back where you found it on the rotating stuff is the rule.
If you have to take the tank completely out you will have to undo the filler hose and vent hose clamps and get those hoses off just outboard and forward of the fuel filter on right side top of suspension frame.
Siphon tank to make your tank lighter.
Remove the exhaust pipe that goes from aft cat con pipe to the muffler inlet pipe over left top suspension frame (actually do this before driveshaft and VC housing stuff).
Remove the plastic shields on front of each tank side.
Remove the 12mm bolts holding tank straps but beware tank now drops but you want it lower a bit for line removal and not drop. Use jack stands or something else suitable to support tank until the lines and wires are freed.
If you can find and repair the leak now you may not need to do the following things needed for full tank removal. Now would be the time to turn on key and let pump cycle to build pressure to find leaks.
The outboard lines on both sender caps will need to be removed. It takes a 90 degree V or C shaped tool to pull up on the black plastic cuff that opens the line retainers so they slide off. The inboard lines connector the two sender assemblies together and do not need to be removed for tank removal.
The wires to pump and gauge sender on pass. side and for gauge sender on driver's side will have to located and made free from anything they will hang on.
Now tank can be lowered more and the vent lines on top disconnected for complete removal.
Remove the rear side load floor pieces. flip up the forward load floor section and pull the carpet back at left and right sides to reveal the two 10mm head bolts that hold the forward floor in place. Remove the forward floor. remove the nuts holding the access cover and the cover. Undo tape around the rubber pass through pieces and unplug the white wires from the docked connectors taking note of which white wires plug into which connector. Undo the grey connector with the red and black wires. push those wires down under car thru opening. (If you want to pressurize system and look for leaks, delay all this until later, it does not have to be done now and if you find the leak and the repair doesn't require full tank removal, this may not need to be done).
Remove the trailing arms with forward brackets on both sides. The forward bracket for these blocks tanks from dropping and they are still in the was and only two bolts hold these to the control arm and they do not affect alignment.
Disconnect driveshaft at rear, mark it to the flange just in case it has balancing bolts. If the bolts are different lengths as noted by them sticking through flange on back side different amounts then you will need to keep bolts in order.
remove the bolt holding VC hosusing up. Remove nut from the flange and then mark the flange to the VC shaft so it can go back where found. Remove the housing and then mark and remove VC from rear end flange. Again this needs to go back where found. On Gen 1 AWD's these pieces are indexed for least lateral and radial throw and bolted up to achieve least runout.
Back where you found it on the rotating stuff is the rule.
If you have to take the tank completely out you will have to undo the filler hose and vent hose clamps and get those hoses off just outboard and forward of the fuel filter on right side top of suspension frame.
Siphon tank to make your tank lighter.
Remove the exhaust pipe that goes from aft cat con pipe to the muffler inlet pipe over left top suspension frame (actually do this before driveshaft and VC housing stuff).
Remove the plastic shields on front of each tank side.
Remove the 12mm bolts holding tank straps but beware tank now drops but you want it lower a bit for line removal and not drop. Use jack stands or something else suitable to support tank until the lines and wires are freed.
If you can find and repair the leak now you may not need to do the following things needed for full tank removal. Now would be the time to turn on key and let pump cycle to build pressure to find leaks.
The outboard lines on both sender caps will need to be removed. It takes a 90 degree V or C shaped tool to pull up on the black plastic cuff that opens the line retainers so they slide off. The inboard lines connector the two sender assemblies together and do not need to be removed for tank removal.
The wires to pump and gauge sender on pass. side and for gauge sender on driver's side will have to located and made free from anything they will hang on.
Now tank can be lowered more and the vent lines on top disconnected for complete removal.
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v70xc
- Posts: 75
- Joined: 10 November 2010
- Year and Model: V70XC AWD Turbo 1998
- Location: Northern Ontario
Wow. Thank you so much for all the details. You almost make it sound easy 
I hope to be able to look at this sooner than later, but not holding my breath. Maybe I will be lucky enough to be able to let this go a while longer since I suspect I should dedicate more than just a few hours for the job from start to finish?
I am guessing you have done this job before? If so, and if you have pictures, might you be willing to post them to give me even more confidence in completing the job without leaving myself without wheels
It does not sound as though there are any special tools short of a V or C shaped pliers to remove the sliding clamps?
You talk about removing the drive shaft. I am assuming this is the main shaft from front to back?
I will have to remove the drive shafts going to each of the wheels as well? I believe these need to be removed and you have called them CV shaft?
I wish I had better pictures to be able to describe my questions, but I have only been able to get under the car with ramps prior to having notice a gas leak, so the pics I have are not directed at finding a leak as of yet
Thanks again
I hope to be able to look at this sooner than later, but not holding my breath. Maybe I will be lucky enough to be able to let this go a while longer since I suspect I should dedicate more than just a few hours for the job from start to finish? I am guessing you have done this job before? If so, and if you have pictures, might you be willing to post them to give me even more confidence in completing the job without leaving myself without wheels
It does not sound as though there are any special tools short of a V or C shaped pliers to remove the sliding clamps?
You talk about removing the drive shaft. I am assuming this is the main shaft from front to back?
I will have to remove the drive shafts going to each of the wheels as well? I believe these need to be removed and you have called them CV shaft?
I wish I had better pictures to be able to describe my questions, but I have only been able to get under the car with ramps prior to having notice a gas leak, so the pics I have are not directed at finding a leak as of yet
Thanks again
1998 V70XC AWD Turbo
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