Ok, need some clarification on setting the VVT. I've set it by the database write up here and get code P0014 (to far advanced). I also have Vadis and got a copy of the dealership method used faxed to me from a Volvo dealer. They are all different to some extent. So my questions are:
Is this correct...
Going to the 1.5 tooth prior before the mark position as posted here, then locking down inner hub bolt, then turning outer cam to mark position (which forces the vvt inner hub to turn because outer gear bolts are at the left position in the oval holes) and the belt has to be put on while holding the cam gear in place.
or
Centering outer cam gear bolts first (as told by info from Volvo dealership), then going through the whole process.
Seems to me that if outer cam gear bolts were at the right side of the oval hole position, once the gear is turned one full turn to the 1.5 tooth before position, then the outer cam gear can be turned to the mark without disturbing the inner hub position.
I'm at a loss now...any help/advice (especially if you've gone through this buffoonery before) would be greatly appreciated.
Setting S80 VVT
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Volvo ETM Failure Angst Was Real
Setting S80 VVT
Our first 240 saved us twice we are a living testament to Volvo safety. The S80 T6 is "just because I could" and it's a fun drive!
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boosted5cyl
- Posts: 1100
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- Year and Model: '98 V70 T5, '99 S80
- Location: St. Paul, MN
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Freakin VADIS makes this look so complex, and its documented differently for the same (edited profanity) motor in different areas of VADIS too!
I wrecked my head with this. When boiled down, its incredibly simple. The end goal is that all the notches should line up and the VVT unit (inner part of the cam pulley) will be turned fully clockwise to its limit position. Therefore the three small bolts on the pulley should be in their rightmost position. Thats it! I messed mine up at first when I rebuilt the top end of my T6. I corrected it two nights (100miles) ago with the belt still on, code are now gone and it runs like a champ. I'm not a mechanic by trade so the info below is E&OE, at your own risk with no warranty implied.
Basically, consider it to be a three stage process:
Stage 1
Forget the VADIS proceedure for now and whatever you have tried so far
Stage 2
Have the crank locked in position on its mark. Drop a 6" 3/8 extenstion into the hole near the starter, turn motor counter clockwise by hand until it hits the stop.
Cams should locked in position, in line with seam in head.
Ensure all all notches are lined up on the cam pulleys with the timing belt cover.
Timing belt sould be on.
Inner bolt on cam pulley that fixes the unit onto the camshaft should be torqued down (Circa 88Ft Lbs, please verify).
The three bolts for the cam gear to VVT unit should be loose
VVT unit should be turned fully counter clockwise (bolts will be on the left of the holes in the toothed pulley when this is done).
If you cant achieve stage 2, ie the VVT unit will not move far enough counterclockwise for the three bolts to be at their leftmost limit, then the center bolt that attaches the unit to the cam needs to be loosened as their relative positions are incorrect.
Stage 3
Keep cams locked, pulleys at marks amd crank locked\at mark.
Fit the outer "cap" onto the VVT unit (T60 torx), no need to torque it yet.
Rotate the VVT unit clockwise using the cap with a T60 torx until it hits its limit.
Lock the three outer pulley bolts.
Torque the VVT cap (25 lb/ft I think, please verify).
You should now be in a position where all marks line up and the three pulley bolts on the VVT unit are on rightmost part of the holes in the toothed gear.
** Have a beer. **
Keep in mind that excessive cranking/hard starting can throw a p0014 as well
Send me a PM if you wanna call me and I can talk you through it. Its so freakin frustrating and so simple!
Hope this helps.
I wrecked my head with this. When boiled down, its incredibly simple. The end goal is that all the notches should line up and the VVT unit (inner part of the cam pulley) will be turned fully clockwise to its limit position. Therefore the three small bolts on the pulley should be in their rightmost position. Thats it! I messed mine up at first when I rebuilt the top end of my T6. I corrected it two nights (100miles) ago with the belt still on, code are now gone and it runs like a champ. I'm not a mechanic by trade so the info below is E&OE, at your own risk with no warranty implied.
Basically, consider it to be a three stage process:
Stage 1
Forget the VADIS proceedure for now and whatever you have tried so far
Stage 2
Have the crank locked in position on its mark. Drop a 6" 3/8 extenstion into the hole near the starter, turn motor counter clockwise by hand until it hits the stop.
Cams should locked in position, in line with seam in head.
Ensure all all notches are lined up on the cam pulleys with the timing belt cover.
Timing belt sould be on.
Inner bolt on cam pulley that fixes the unit onto the camshaft should be torqued down (Circa 88Ft Lbs, please verify).
The three bolts for the cam gear to VVT unit should be loose
VVT unit should be turned fully counter clockwise (bolts will be on the left of the holes in the toothed pulley when this is done).
If you cant achieve stage 2, ie the VVT unit will not move far enough counterclockwise for the three bolts to be at their leftmost limit, then the center bolt that attaches the unit to the cam needs to be loosened as their relative positions are incorrect.
Stage 3
Keep cams locked, pulleys at marks amd crank locked\at mark.
Fit the outer "cap" onto the VVT unit (T60 torx), no need to torque it yet.
Rotate the VVT unit clockwise using the cap with a T60 torx until it hits its limit.
Lock the three outer pulley bolts.
Torque the VVT cap (25 lb/ft I think, please verify).
You should now be in a position where all marks line up and the three pulley bolts on the VVT unit are on rightmost part of the holes in the toothed gear.
** Have a beer. **
Keep in mind that excessive cranking/hard starting can throw a p0014 as well
Send me a PM if you wanna call me and I can talk you through it. Its so freakin frustrating and so simple!
Hope this helps.
'04 XC90 2.5T AWD (Angus) 134K.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
Boosted5cyl:
Now that's what I'm looking for! I searched everywhere trying to figure out exactly where do they want the inner pully/VVT unit to actually end up. Of course it would be too simple for them to just say "make sure the VVT unit is cranked over to the full clockwise position then line up marks and crank down all the bolts"!
I work another mid shift tonight, but will go back at it while I'm off the next couple of days.
Thanks a ton!
Now that's what I'm looking for! I searched everywhere trying to figure out exactly where do they want the inner pully/VVT unit to actually end up. Of course it would be too simple for them to just say "make sure the VVT unit is cranked over to the full clockwise position then line up marks and crank down all the bolts"!
I work another mid shift tonight, but will go back at it while I'm off the next couple of days.
Thanks a ton!
Our first 240 saved us twice we are a living testament to Volvo safety. The S80 T6 is "just because I could" and it's a fun drive!
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jimmy57
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Great advice.
I have always set the CVVT hub gear at mid bolt travel 1.5 teeth left of mark. Then loosen the gear bolts, lay belt in place around crank and other lower gear, and then insert tx55 bit on a ratchet or shorter breaker bar and then pull the CVVT hub clockwise to its stop and then secure the ratchet to the lift loop on accessory bracket. I have a craftsman 3/8 breaker bar with a hole in its handle and a tx55 that is 3/8 drive. The hole allows me to use a length of mechanics wire through the hole and then pull the hub CW and tie off the wire to hold it there. It is not critical at this point for the hub to be hard and fast against stop but if it pretty close to that point the cam gear can go to its proper place without you fighting that damn internal spring. Once belt is run over all the gears and you are happy with the marks then you turn the hub to its CW stop and torque the bolts holding gear to hub and the bolts on the other gear holding it to cam. The bolts must be loose so they can "float" to the proper place when belt is tightened.
If you have the eccentric sprung roller tensioner it is also important that you go overtight and then let tension down to the correct range of pointer straight up before tightening the bolts on gears. The overtension assures the belt is tight all the way round as the drag of gears on hub and cam may not allow the gears to "float" to proper place.
On the hydraulic ram tensioner engines the recommendation is to punch the belt between cam gears and on the belt run below exhaust cam gear to encourage the belt tension to be equal all way round before bolts holding gears are torqued.
The deletion of spring on the exhaust hubs for 2001 was a great idea................
I have always set the CVVT hub gear at mid bolt travel 1.5 teeth left of mark. Then loosen the gear bolts, lay belt in place around crank and other lower gear, and then insert tx55 bit on a ratchet or shorter breaker bar and then pull the CVVT hub clockwise to its stop and then secure the ratchet to the lift loop on accessory bracket. I have a craftsman 3/8 breaker bar with a hole in its handle and a tx55 that is 3/8 drive. The hole allows me to use a length of mechanics wire through the hole and then pull the hub CW and tie off the wire to hold it there. It is not critical at this point for the hub to be hard and fast against stop but if it pretty close to that point the cam gear can go to its proper place without you fighting that damn internal spring. Once belt is run over all the gears and you are happy with the marks then you turn the hub to its CW stop and torque the bolts holding gear to hub and the bolts on the other gear holding it to cam. The bolts must be loose so they can "float" to the proper place when belt is tightened.
If you have the eccentric sprung roller tensioner it is also important that you go overtight and then let tension down to the correct range of pointer straight up before tightening the bolts on gears. The overtension assures the belt is tight all the way round as the drag of gears on hub and cam may not allow the gears to "float" to proper place.
On the hydraulic ram tensioner engines the recommendation is to punch the belt between cam gears and on the belt run below exhaust cam gear to encourage the belt tension to be equal all way round before bolts holding gears are torqued.
The deletion of spring on the exhaust hubs for 2001 was a great idea................
Done!
Making sure the VVT timing was cranked over clockwise fully (despite any other vague instructions I came across) then locking down the outer gear made the p0014 code go away. There's nothing like experience of going through something like this to get to the bottom of how it's really done. Thanks again for the info...purely priceless!
And that was the best tasting beer in a really long time!:)
Making sure the VVT timing was cranked over clockwise fully (despite any other vague instructions I came across) then locking down the outer gear made the p0014 code go away. There's nothing like experience of going through something like this to get to the bottom of how it's really done. Thanks again for the info...purely priceless!
And that was the best tasting beer in a really long time!:)
Our first 240 saved us twice we are a living testament to Volvo safety. The S80 T6 is "just because I could" and it's a fun drive!
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mlanctot
- Posts: 112
- Joined: 2 July 2008
- Year and Model: 1999 S80T6
- Location: Pleasant Valley, Connecticut
OK,
Took the starter out and set engine as described. When I checked the marks the exhaust cam was one tooth off to the left. This could have happened putting the belt on. So, I presume all I need do is remove belt, rotate cam clockwise one tooth and reattach belt,,yes.
Took the starter out and set engine as described. When I checked the marks the exhaust cam was one tooth off to the left. This could have happened putting the belt on. So, I presume all I need do is remove belt, rotate cam clockwise one tooth and reattach belt,,yes.
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boosted5cyl
- Posts: 1100
- Joined: 29 January 2010
- Year and Model: '98 V70 T5, '99 S80
- Location: St. Paul, MN
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If that does it, consider yourself very lucky. You might as well lock the cams and follow the VVT set proceedure, save you doing it twice. JMHO
'04 XC90 2.5T AWD (Angus) 134K.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
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