Volvo 850 Disc Brake Dilemma

Vanillagorilla · Post by **Vanillagorilla** » 21 Oct 2011, 13:54

Hello! I have a '95 Volvo 850 Wagon, non-turbo and I was hoping to get some feedback on my Brake system dilemma... When I bought the car, it came with 17" BBS rims, and in an effort to keep them clean, when I changed the front brakes, I installed new rotors, and Beck Arnley Ceramic pads. These front Brakes are quite noisy, and I find that I have to put a fair bit of force on the pedal to stop. It is now time to replace the rear set, and I'd still like to use ceramic pads. However, I want to avoid the problems I'm having with the fronts. I spoke to one mechanic, who said that for ceramics to work well, and to reduce noise, slotted or cross-drilled rotors are needed to allow gas expansion and heat to dissipate. I am frustrated enough with my front brakes, that I am considering replacing the front brakes again, and want to make a smart decision in purchasing a set for the rears. Ultimately I'd like the fronts to match the rears. I don't mind putting a little bit of money in to the car if it significantly improves my situation. Any advise is appreciated!

Thanks!

Post by **Choguy03** » 21 Oct 2011, 14:05

While ceramic brakes are nice and reduce brake dust, they don't last quite as long. I prefer using the the semi metallic pads and being more diligent cleaning the rims. Not really sure why they are noisy, but you definitely will get reduced performance with them. Also, when slamming on the brakes (not saying you did) you put a seen on the pad and significantly reduce the braking ability of the car.

instarx · Post by **instarx** » 21 Oct 2011, 14:13

Although I'm no brake expert, I installed ceramic pads and new rotors a few months ago and I felt no change in pedal force. I have original style solid rotors. They do not squeal, but I used a different brand of pads (Akebono). Drilled and slotted rotors are not needed in normal driving. I would look somewhere else to find why you need more pedal force to stop. I'm very happy with my ceramic pads, by the way.

I would recommend replacing your front pads with another brand and see how that changes things. Then go from there to decide what you need to do for the rears.

Post by **jblackburn** » 21 Oct 2011, 14:56

Some rotors and pad combinations are softer/harder than others.

I've gone with the Akebono/Zimmerman cross-drilled combination on the front of my car (rears are OEM Volvo for both). I'm quite happy with the brakes on the front - I've got over 25,000 on them, and will do the same to the rear when they need to be replaced.

Pedal feel isn't any different from what I can tell. The Volvo certainly requires more pressure than most new cars (barely touching the brake pedal in the Accord I'm driving at the moment will slam you forward if you're not careful enough). Have you bled brakes/changed fluid at any point recently? When the brake fluid boils (I've done it, driving fast and braking hard) or absorbs water, you'll definitely notice a difference in how much pressure it takes to stop the car.

Some new brakes/rotors require a "bedding in" procedure (a couple of panic-hard braking scenarios without coming to a complete stop) to get an even transfer of material to the new rotors. Read the instructions that come with your new set of pads.

Vanillagorilla · Post by **Vanillagorilla** » 21 Oct 2011, 16:35

Hi guys! Thanks for all your input! When I purchased the car, the brakes where really horrible and tended to pull to the right. I then replaced the fronts and noticed no change. Turns out there was no fluid getting to my drivers side front brake caliper. Turned out to be the ABS pump module. I replaced it, and bled all the brakes. I've never really experienced the car before these issues so, for all I know, the brake pressure could be normal. My concern with the ceramic pads is that they make a grinding noise right before the car comes to a stop. Also, when the brakes are cold, they squeak. I brought the issue up to my mechanic and he thought maybe that the brakes didn't break in properly. After he replaced my CV joint, he took a grinding disc with a scotchbrite pad to my rotors as a quick and dirty way to let the brakes wear in again. This didn't seem to help matters. After driving around for about 1,000 KMs with a slight squeal (without brake application) the brakes are not any different. Also, it almost looked like there was more wear on the rotors than there was to the ceramic pads after 10,000 KMs of use.

instarx · Post by **instarx** » 21 Oct 2011, 17:12

My ceramic pads stop smooth as butter. There is something else wrong with your brakes. A squeal when your brakes aren't applied may mean that the pads are not being retracted as they should by the calipers. Pads should not touch rotors when the brakes are not applied. A sticky caliper can also give you premature wear, scraping noises, and could require excess pedal pressure. I think you need a complete brake inspection and service. And frankly, I'd find a different mechanic to do it. Drilled and slotted rotors, as profitable as they are for the mechanic, are not likely to solve your problems.

If you want to take your chances with this mechanic, let us know if when replacing your rotors with the new drilled and slotted ones he "discovers" that you happen to need one or more new calipers as well.

gilhuly · Post by **gilhuly** » 21 Oct 2011, 17:38

I do a couple brake jobs a week on volvos. Go with the zimmerman coated rotors and Akebono pads on the front. If you have no warping of the rotors presently and they're in decent shape replace the pads only. There is almost no brake dust on the fronts. On the rears, anything other than OEM with cut shims and you are rolling the dice.

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 21 Oct 2011, 18:02

I have to agree with the others, buy new Akebono pads for the fronts, leaving the rotors alone. Then check the calipers to make sure they work, with clean slide pins and liberal amounts of silicone brake grease. Also check the rotor on the driver's side to make sure there is wear on the rotor, having only one front brake work will cause all sorts of problems.

I also used only OEM pads on the rear. There is very little dust accumulation on the rear wheels, and no noise.

Vanillagorilla · Post by **Vanillagorilla** » 21 Oct 2011, 19:20

This is great help! Thank you! I now think that maybe my front drivers side brake caliper might be damaged due to its sitting without fluid for so long? Corrosion on the Piston or the Bore perhaps? Anyone know what brand Volvo used for its OEM parts, or perhaps a good suitable aftermarket brand for calipers? I called the dealership and they want $243 for each caliper! Is it necessary to change both front calipers at the same time? or can I get away with just changing the drivers side?

Post by **jblackburn** » 21 Oct 2011, 20:26

$243? Theyre funny. You can get rebuilt Centric calipers for around $40 each. I'd change em both along with pads. Rotors if you want to - that drivers side one may be warped if the caliper is sticking.