Suspention advice and where to buy

nitink · Post by **nitink** » 10 Apr 2006, 17:45

FIrst let me start by saying you guys are life saver. I think without you I would have been bankrupt by now.

It seems my car need both front & rear suspention update. When I push trunk down it comes up very slowly and make a strong noise and when ever I hit a pothole, front side litrally gives me pain in back & neck. I think they need to be changed (I really hope this is the last one)

I have tonz newbies questions

1) Do I need to upgrade front & rear suspention simultaneously?
2) Do I need to change wheel bearings also ? (Car has 97000 miles)
3) How important it is to change springs?
4) Other that Shock & Springs in rear what else should I change
5) I am looking for good comfortable ride (70% comfort, 30% handling), Which shocks/springs will provide *Best value for money* .
6) If I call mobile, independent mechanics how much time It will take them to do suspention change?
7) Would you like to recommand some internet site which offers good price?

Thankyou so much
Nitin

Post by **pfeener** » 10 Apr 2006, 19:21

1. No, front and rear can be done separately.
2. No, wheel bearing are generally changed only when they fail.
3. Springs are fine, unless you're looking for a performance or appearance upgrade
4. No springs in rear, just shocks and upper shock mounts
5. Probably the OEMs. I personally don't like the Bilstein TCs, but others have had good luck with them. I have them on the rears of my car and they are noisy as hell.
6. Front and rears should take around 3 hours.
7. FCPgroton.com or myswedishparts.com for OEM parts

You will also need spring seats in the front. Check the ball joints, control arm bushings, tie rod ends and sway bar end links while you're in there.

l33tDad · Post by **l33tDad** » 11 Apr 2006, 13:38

Also, since you're tearing into front-end suspension rebuild, for the money, you might as well do the front strut mounts (~$100 a pair). That way you KNOW that you won't have to worry about them in the future. I always go to FCP for parts. They're fast, great to talk with if you need to call them and their prices are fantastic...

nitink · Post by **nitink** » 11 Apr 2006, 15:06

>>>4. No springs in rear, just shocks and upper shock mounts

Do you mean there is no spring in the rear or you mean I don't need to change springs.
I think I saw some springs in rear which seems worn, and many parts site also list some thing like heavy duty coil spring!!!

For now I have decided to take care of rear suspention and I have almost decided on Bilstien Touring for rear unless some one tells me that its really problamatic or I come across some super deal on Koni sports.

I will have the car on lift for 30 mins tomorrow, please tell me what all shall I check?

Post by **pfeener** » 11 Apr 2006, 17:58

The rear does have springs, but it's not something you need to replace. If you use Bilstein TCs on the rear, I hope yours are quieter than mine. I'm getting ready to swap mine out after only 18 months.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 11 Apr 2006, 18:41

Thanks Jim! SpellNazi...hehe

In regards to the rear Bilst. TC's. I have them on mine (all 4 corners) and love them. Make sure the rubber bump stop in the rear is not loose or fallen down. If you need the pins for them I have a spare set.

utvol1984 · Post by **utvol1984** » 12 Apr 2006, 07:00

Having just replaced almost every component on the front of my 93 850 GLT except the springs, I strongly echo the advice to get parts from FCP Groton. I had excellent service from them - prices are excellent, shipping is very fast and the parts are OEM or OEM quality. Also when you have your front end torn apart, check sway bar links, tie rod ends and ball joints carefully - particularly the rubber grease retainers on each - mine were badly torn so they wouldn't retain grease. I also echo the advice to replace the spring "hats." Mine were toast - there's a little metal bushing that's supposed to be permanently affixed to the middle of the rubber spring hat. Over time it works loose and separates from the spring hat and then the spring hat is useless - that's where most of my klunking was coming from. If you have it torn down, you might think about going ahead and replacing sway bar links, tie rod ends and ball joints, they're not hard to replace and relatively inexpensive. Also check your sway bar bushings - ideally you have the car off the ground and the sway bar links detached - if you can move the bar at all in it's two bushings you need to replace them. I have this problem now and it causes squeaking and a minor klunk. Seems like a lot of stuff but none of it is really hard to replace and it's worth doing it all at the same time.

nitink · Post by **nitink** » 13 Apr 2006, 12:56

Thanks everyone
I am looking for some more tips for REAR suspenSion plz.
As for shocks any more openion on Bils TC's is most welcome.

As for Shop Price is same almost every where (56-58$) some shops are offering free shipping, If some one can think of a compelling argument of not opting for that please let me know.

Rear shocks seems to be easy job, mechanic is asking for just 40mins labor hope he will do a good job.

Post by **Pauloil** » 29 Dec 2009, 18:50

I'm not sure why you think you need new struts: are they leaking?
i did my rears when one was leaking... they aren't hard to do.
Volvo struts are stiff by nature: that is why they are good road cars.
I didn't replace the front struts until 163K because the left front wheel was bouncing going down hill and turning right a bit. THe new KONIs are great! Now if you need new mounts(upper strut nut turns more than 10-15 degrees and noisy on that side), use the XC90 mounts and replace the struts. Find a good indy mech who can tell you what you need and hopefully save you from just buying a lot of parts.....

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 30 Dec 2009, 07:49

I have the Monroe SensaTracs on all four corners. They are great and about half the cost of the so called "performance" shocks and struts out there. I got them at a local parts store. While looking over the rear suspension, be sure to check out the delta arm bushings and link ends. I had one that was broken clean off!