A few notes and a few questions.

[jblackburn]

I finally got my S70 back on the road this weekend.

After the timing belt change, the camshafts were leaking oil EVERYWHERE. The cams were partially gouged when I got in there to change the seals on one, and I'm pretty sure I nicked the exhaust one a bit where you see that big scratch in it. But they looked bad before I even got in there - as soon as I removed the cam gear, I could see why it had been leaking. The cam seals were sitting slightly outwards before, so I think when I pushed them back in there where they were supposed to be, they just got torn up.



Anyway, it's back together, and the engine seems to run MUCH quieter and less ticky on the top end than before, if you will.

Compared to the underpowered 4-cyl Accord I've been driving, I MISSED MY CAR SO MUCH. I think I could live with 30 mpg mixed city/hwy mileage every day, though. That was nice, at least.

Observations:

• Rebuilt PCV system is not smoking AT ALL.
• Oil burning smell at idle seems to be gone entirely.
• Meyle HD sway bar end links? ENORMOUS improvement. It feels so much more planted on the road and doesn't feel like it's tripping clumsily over bumps in the road anymore. It feels about 500x tighter. Still not the amazingly refined suspension the Accord has, but probably the best I've actually had it.
• I think I'm going to need a new alternator soon. And yes, the battery cables are fine - almost no resistance at all.

Questions:

• The dash squeaking is annoying me now that I'm not having clunking coming from the suspension up front. Where are the firewall screws that need to be tightened, in this case at the drivers side corner of the dash? If I push back on it slightly, it shuts up entirely - doesn't seem like it's broken loose from the mounts though as 850's do.
• I seem to be getting pulling when braking as if my front rotors are warped (they're 1 year/26,000 miles old), but this only happens in Drive. Pop it into neutral as you're slowing and it stops perfectly smoothly. Any reason for that?

[jimmy57]

The dash is not good news. Tightening the screws will not address it. The 4 screws go through firewall under the cowl/wiper linkage cover. The areas where the panel nuts the screws secure to are going to be cracked. Fixable with Simpsons strap tie pieces from Lowe's or Home Depot or by wooden custom pieces glued in place. It is a shame as this malady affects HUGE numbers of 90's and early 2000's cars and trucks. The plastic outgases and it weakens and makes plastic brittle.

If those cams happen to be a diameter SKF makes shaft surface repair sleeves for (see Speedi-sleeve), then you can do it in car. Otherwise its new cams from the looks of those gouges.

The pulling is a bit strange but a binding CV joint will do that but usually causes pull under power also.

[jblackburn]

It has a set of replacement cams in it now, but that would have been good to know beforehand. I think I'll just turn those into desk ornaments.

So, short of taking the dash off, would you just wedge a thin strip of wood in the back of it by the windshield to push against it and keep it from squeaking? It only happens sometimes, mostly when cold.

I'm thinking that would mean it's an inner CV joint? Would it show any noticeable play just feeling it with the car jacked up rotating wheels back and forth? Acceleration is very smooth - no shaking.

[JRL]

Remove the cowl, (you know where the cabin filter is) you will then see the 4 long screws
That may or may not be it.
If not, you will have to remove the dash to either replace it or attempt to fix the cheap plastic clips that are attached to it and may be broken (hint, lots of epoxy and patience)

[valvster]

I have the dreaded rattly dash on my 850 (more noticeable since new front suspension) and have been wrestling with trying this easy fix from 2004.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=22304
It looks do-able but with some risk of damaging the wiring loom.

Valvster

[turbozutek]

I had major dash rattle when I first got my 850, so much so that you could press the dash back onto the bulkhead by a few mm's with your hand, and you could hear it 'clunk' forward under braking! I removed the scuttle panel and tightened the four bolts (which were very loose) and I've had no problems since. I guess I was lucky.

Chris...

[obayha]

I asked about the vibration problem earlier and answers came back that the inner CV joint was going bad. Sometimes it does it in neutral on braking, but mine vibrates in that 50-65 mph range acceleration. I will be soon doing mine if you want to come by and watch/help .
Shane

[jblackburn]

I've done both axles much earlier in the cars life. Back around 130,000 miles right when I bought it. Both outer CV joints were toast and I replaced them with "new" axles from R-axles. I don't feel any vibration under 80, and that's a bent rim that balances out under that speed. Yours, however, does sound like a bad inner cv joint.

The drivers side one can be a real pain to get the clip to let go, but a bit of tapping with a big screwdriver or small crowbar will pop it loose pretty easily.

I'm gonna try the screw thing for the dash if it's still light outside tomorrow evening when I get home and I'll get back.

[obayha]

I hear you about the drivers side axle...
Let us know how the dash comes out. Cold weather does make them rattle more.
Shane